distributor troubles

Are you in one of the clubs? Maybe they'll have someone that is close enough to take a look?
 
I think Quattro used a rolling road in Blackpool with good results, which would be amply close enough for me. If he doesn't come to this thread perhaps it would be a good idea to pm him and ask?

Now that you've bought the electronic kit there is no point getting another distributor. If this is what it turns out to be, and I'm a long way from being convinced of that yet awhile, just get your current one service exchanged by past parts.

Chris
 
The Ebay one, Rich, clearly doesn't know what he has as he lists it as suitable for P6 and SD1 and it can't be both! The P6 front cover, besides the different oil pump arrangement, has a different arrangement of the skew gear for driving the distributor. Hence SD1 and later distributors don't fit the P6/P5 (and very early Range Rover) engine. 90% of such distributors it isn't possible to change the skew gear on the bottom of the distributor as it is usually in unit with the shaft. Simon BBC has just started making some where you can. So you change ditributors at your peril - it can be a very frustrating and drawn out experience (said he with feeling - been there, done that). Likewise the Rimmer distributors shown are all for post SD1 engines.

Chris
 
Hello Happy days,

As has already been advised,..please don't throw out your distributor just yet. In reality there is not much in the Lucas 35D8. With lots of miles, say over 200,000, which is what my original distributor saw, the primary and secondary advance springs will likely be a little tired, and this will mean that the rate of advance will have increased and the maximum advance will occur at lower rpm than was originally set. This is not necessarily a bad thing as the factory advance figures are very conservative indeed, that is to say the engine can be made to perform substantially better by increasing the rate of advance.

New springs and bushes where necessary including rebushing the main shaft will likely see your distributor fuctioning just like new. I do however feel that it is likely to be only part of the problem. As I mentioned the original timing set leaves much to be desired, so replacing it with an all steel set with a double row true roller timing chain will make an enormous improvement. Couple that with your refurbished distributor and you won't know your Rover.. :D

Ron.
 
Thanks all for the responses, this gets all quite confusing for me as I am only starting to work with cars. But after reading through all this would I be right now to take her to a rolling road, get a thorough check from all these modern machines then at least I know categorically what is wrong and can go about sorting it I have ordered a workshop manual but that has not arrived yet which will help me alot. She is running ok at moment just fast at idle but as it's freezing here don't think that's a bad thing.
 
chrisyork said:
I think Quattro used a rolling road in Blackpool with good results, which would be amply close enough for me. If he doesn't come to this thread perhaps it would be a good idea to pm him and ask?

Now that you've bought the electronic kit there is no point getting another distributor. If this is what it turns out to be, and I'm a long way from being convinced of that yet awhile, just get your current one service exchanged by past parts.

Chris

I never actually got there Chris, Sparky was sorn'd a couple of days before I got the info from BBlongman -

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6481#p40979

Sparky had the Mallory dual point Dizzy to start with but I changed it for the SD1 contactless type, and it transformed it.

Richard
 
Well, short of any other recommendations for the Manchester area, it lokks like A B Garage, Unit 167B Castle Close, Hawarden Ind. Park, Manor Lane, Hawarden, CH5 3PZ, M-F 9am - 6.30 pm Sat 10 -5 pm; Tel: 01244 537701

I've googled them but it looks like they don't have a web site. Quite common with really good places! There are a lot of really enthusiastic reviews of them though!

Chris
 
Thanks Chrisyork think that is the way forward for me {how i wish now i worked on my cars when younger instead of doing other things teenagers do........ mmmmm maybe not}
will get in touch with them to see what they say
 
If you go on Ebay - seller Room05 is based in Warrington specialises in V8 stuff - he'll probably have a decent distributor to hand of you email him
 
Whilst it is understandable that the focus may be the distributor as it is an easy part to swap out, it is far more likely that the offending part will be something that wears far quicker than the distributor such as the timing gear or cam shaft and associated rocker shafts etc also the other Elehant in the room is worn carbs. Probably the best course at the moment is to get an accurate diagnosis.

Graeme
 
I'd agree - buying things when you arent sure what the problem is will find the problem eventually but it could be any number of things...

The distributor thing comes from the mechanical you had take a look at it doesnt it. Did the car bahave ok in this way before fitting the electronic ignition?

Is the mechanic an old school carb/dizzy type man or modern electronics? Might give you a clue as to whether replacing the dizzy is a good move or not!

Rich.
 
Car was running not as a v8 should. Wasn't the power their when you put foot down it was jumpy like you had choke out when he engine is warm. That's what started all this. I hear what everyone is saying and do think I should take it to somewhere who knows carbs and v8's to try and get a definitive way forward. Am thinking of a tuning company or a garage recommended earlier near Chester
 
happy days said:
Car was running not as a v8 should. Wasn't the power their when you put foot down it was jumpy like you had choke out when he engine is warm. That's what started all this. I hear what everyone is saying and do think I should take it to somewhere who knows carbs and v8's to try and get a definitive way forward. Am thinking of a tuning company or a garage recommended earlier near Chester

Sparky was like that and I spent a lot of money sorting it.

The main problem was that somebody had wired some extras into the car using blue scotch connectors onto the main feed wire to the coil. Apart from melting the fuse box this gave an intermitent feed which gave it that all or nothing like drive. It was either ticking over or flat out, with not much in between.

Check to see if there are any of those little blocks on the wire to the coil, at the fusebox end under the dashboard.

Richard
 
Check to see if there are any of those little blocks on the wire to the coil, at the fusebox end under the dashboard.

These things are appalling. I always take them out and replace them with solder... Even bullet connectors i like to solder to the wires in question - compression just isnt good enough where electrics are concerned! (or plumbing for that matter!)
 
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