Door window rubbers

C

campingstoveman

New Member
Gentlemen,

I have now located and bought a speedo drive for my Auto box and the next item on my wish list is window wiper rubbers, specifically the rear offside door.
Any sources I can use please would be gratefully received.

Martin P
 
Hi Martin

As you've registered this is a wear item!

New Rover ones which have a metal stiffener built into them are extremely rare and very expensive - keep your eyes peeled on ebay or perhaps give Ian Wilson a ring. http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/

Reproduction ones are available but these do not have the stiffener. Made in Australia by http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/ but also available from a number of sources in the UK including Wadahms http://www.jrwadhams.co.uk/home.htm .

Finally, Colin Gould at Kingdsown Motors in FAringdon does a very neat product by modifying a door to glass seal from a well known modern rep mobile. His have the stiffener and have furflex against the glass as well! You can reach him on 01367 244646.

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
Hi Martin

As you've registered this is a wear item!

New Rover ones which have a metal stiffener built into them are extremely rare and very expensive - keep your eyes peeled on ebay or perhaps give Ian Wilson a ring. http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/

Reproduction ones are available but these do not have the stiffener. Made in Australia by http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/ but also available from a number of sources in the UK including Wadahms http://www.jrwadhams.co.uk/home.htm .

Finally, Colin Gould at Kingdsown Motors in FAringdon does a very neat product by modifying a door to glass seal from a well known modern rep mobile. His have the stiffener and have furflex against the glass as well! You can reach him on 01367 244646.

Chris
Click to expand...
I have the Scotts rubbers on my 2200 auto, they are surprisingly good and easy to fit. Recommended!

What I really NEED is a driver's door door to glass rubber for a 1964 car - these are the early ones with the cut off edges and they are grey, not black, in colour...spectacularily rare...if anyone has any of these I will pay goodly money!

Cheers
Nick
 
Gentlemen,

I contacted the gentleman in Doncaster and one of my work collegues collected enough rubber to do all four doors, my Haynes manual does not describe how to change these so could somebody give me a run down on how to do it please.

I assume the metal stiffener would have been along the length of the seal when it attached to the door, if I'm correct then I can make these and bond them to the rubber before fitting.

Thanks in antisipation,

Martin P
 
Get a hold of a Rover Repair Operation manual. Go to the sections advising how to remove the window glass from the front and rear doors. When you get to the stage where it tells you to "remove the window glass and frame from the door" raise the glass and frame only about one or two inches. It will stay there and you can fit the new window rubbers with ease. Re-assembly is reverse of the above. This is also a good opportunity to check the doors insides for rust.
 
I can't recall exactly how I did mine but I certainly didn't unscrew or lift the frame & I did all 4 in 2-3 hours. It's pretty straightforward once you've done one but I suppose it depends on how far you want to go. I used JRW items.
 
Gentlemen,

Well hello again, I have replaced my offending door rubber on the ofside rear and found it a very easy operation to do.
Just got to find time to do the other three.

Martin P
 
Finally i have finished the two replacement doors i was preparing for a long time now, and i actually fitted the rear one. The procedure involved transferring the glass frame to the new door. I have noticed that at the point where the glass frame enters the door, there are small pieces of strip steel fitted, that perhaps once were bonded with some rubber to offer a better seal against the door rubber. However, now i can only imagine how they used to be originally. So, does anyone know if those things are available, or if anyone can post a photo of the items in original condition?

Thanks,

Demetris
 
I've had a quick look at most of the usuall suppliers, but nobody seems to list them. As you know there is a U shaped metal clip that clips over then door edge, this is normally (although you don't see many !) covered in rubber which tapers about 1/2 an inch up the window frame, and helps to stop water running down the frame and into the door.
Assuming you can't find any good ones, you may be able to use a bit of a door to glass seal.
 
Confirmed Richard and Demetris, that is an item that's no longer available.

If anyone out there has a (preferably) NOS one or a VERY good used one I will undertake to get it copied and made available.

I'm off to my other home in Thailand in a few days time, and while I'm out there will be popping accross to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) in Vietnam where there is a Westerner I know who specialises in harnessing all the little back street workshops etc to produce replica classic car parts. More or less anything possible, so I will have a very full case of samples for him this time. These will include door to glass seals with the stiffener, boot mount badges, front lamp clusters and lots more. When I discover how much he wants for each item then I will have to look in the piggy bank and prioritise what happens first!

I'm also looking forward to taking a few photos from the roof of the old American Embassy - an iconic spot for any of us brought up through the Vietnam war (or 2nd Indo China War as it's known locally!).

Chris
 
Oooh Chris, that sounds interesting, wonder if they can reproduce the cluster lenses in clear plastic ? I guess it could be a single moulding, no need for seperate sections.
To a certain extent a similar thing applies to the lamp clusters themselves, why not reproduce them in chromed plastic rather than die cast, much less chance for them to corrode like they do.
 
No need to do a single moulding! once you've made lens moulds for the present three colours it's no problem to just use the same moulds to produce clear ones - yep, I'd already thought of that! As for plastic housings rather than mazak, well it all depends on the price. My own suspicion is that the mould for plastic could be a lot more than mazak, which could be done by lost wax, which is (relatively) cheaper.

Chris
 
Gentlemen,

In a previous job I had experience of plastic moulding and die casting, plastic moulding multi colours is perfectly possible but requires an expensive IM Machine, the tooling alone would cost several thousands of pounds to make and then quantities of mouldings would be required to justify production time whether here or abroad. The same goes for die casting, the tooling would be the biggest cost involvement.

Martin P
 
hi,
tell me about it. i have had quite a few items reproduced last year. mould costs have been from £100.00 to £2300.00 for the bonnet badge which is in the process of being done at the moment and should be ready in about 6 weeks. i had a look at the door-glass seals and each mould was £1400.00 and £14.00 for each seal with a minimum order of 500 pieces of each ( do the maths ) then you get plonkers on ebay leaving you negative for the rubber strip that is available. as you can see it is just not viable on some items and you have to make do with a cheaper equivalent. the little piece on the end of the window frame like you say is unavailable ( there are 6 different ones to make a car set up ) i do have some NOS ones left.

ian
 
Ian says:
"-you have to make do with a cheaper equivalent.-"

Can you please say what may fit and where to get it from?

Cheers, :cool:
 
Ian (Rover-Classics), Scotts Old Auto Rubber in Australia and Wadhams (at least) all stock a dimensionally identical window to door rubber. BUT they don't have the metal stiffener moulded inside the rubber. That's what makes them affordable to reproduce.

I shall be in Vietnam in late April to investigate whether i can get a 100% reproduction with the stiffener done there, but don't expect instant results!

Chris
 
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