Dynamo to alternator conversion

Dave3066

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
Folks

I'm considering converting my '66 2000 SC from dynamo to alternator charging. I've managed to get hold of an alternator mount, but it seems a bit oddly shaped (sorry no pic yet). My 2000 parts and workshop manuals only cover dynamo and aircon vehicles with alternators and don't give a very good diagram of the alternator mount. Does anyone have either a picture of the alternator mount fitted to the side of the engine block, or a copy of the relevant page from the later 2000 parts manual they could post up for me? Thanks

Dave
 
They are odd looking and typical rover over engineered.

There will be two types of bracket on for the 18ACR type and the earlier 11AC. If you went for the 11AC bracket you could fit a modern alternator like the A127/200 series unit which was found on most cars since the maestro.







Colin
 
Dave and Colin,

I think that none of the factory series 2 alternator brackets will work right away, without also changing the water pump and pulley, the crankshaft pulley, and the engine steady bracket for series 2 items, because on the series 2 cars the belt line sits further forward.
When i bought my TC it has already been converted (badly...) by some fabrication (cut nad weld) on the original dynamo bracket. Since then, i have replaced this bracket with a factory part and some adjustment to bring the alternator pulley in line with the others, but i am not sure from what model it comes from. I still use a single nylon bracket.
Alternators were an optional extra fitment on series 1 models too, but i am not sure on the solution that the factory used.
 
Colin/Demetris

Thanks both. I'm not sure which bracket I have (early or late) I'll take some pics and post them up when I get a chance. The pulley alignment shouldn't be an issue as I can adjust the alternator mount rather than doing anything with the water pump pulley etc. I figured it wouldn't be a straight swap but it can't be too difficult to engineer. I need to get my hands on an alternator first. I did briefly flirt with the idea of buying one of those alternators in a dynamo case, but the cost is extortionate for what I can engineer with a bracket and a £50ish alternator. There was a time when I would've gone with maintaining originality for the car, but as she's my daily driver (and has been for the last 4 years) I'd rather have something that can cope better with Winter driving as it has been lately in Scotland. I've not yet got to the stage where the dynamo can't cope, but with the rain and snow we've had, and having to use lights, heater blower on full and wipers etc I think it's only a matter of time :?

Dave
 
Dave,

If you can put your hands on veritys alternator/bracket that should give you a clue as to which one you have, ie same distance between front and rear mounts.

Colin
 
Thanks for the link Stan

That's the cheapest 18ACR I've seen. The nearest I've seen price wise is this A127 type which is claimed to be a direct replacement for the 18ACR.

This is the bracket I have



It's 94mm (3.7") between the front and rear mounts.

When they talk about left and right hand fit, is that looking from the front or in the conventional manner ie when sitting in the car?

Dave
 
Dave3066 said:
When they talk about left and right hand fit, is that looking from the front or in the conventional manner ie when sitting in the car?
Click to expand...

Not quite as simple as that I'm afraid, Dave. Depends on the orientation as well.

This is the best explanation I've seen:
 

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vaultsman said:
Not quite as simple as that I'm afraid, Dave. Depends on the orientation as well.
Click to expand...

It seems as simple as that to me Stan. That diagram seems to be looking towards the pulley end of the alternator, which is generally at the front of the engine. So the top 2 are mounted high like the V8 and the bottom 2 are mounted low like the 4 pot. So mine would be a right hand fit. Actually either way you look at it the right hand fits are both the same, as are the left hand....or am I missing something?

Dave
 
It's something that does catch a lot of people out.

Your question seemed (to me) to suggest you could hand an alternator purely on which side of the engine it sits. As you've correctly pointed out now, it depends also on whether it's top- or bottom-pivoted.

So it is simple, once you know all the factors involved.

Good luck with the conversion.
 
You can rotate the casing to suit what you need.

I did this but one thing to do is remove the brushes first or as I found when you put the case back together you break them like I did....
 
Hi, you have to rotate the front casing, so I always remove the shaft nut and pulley and then
move the casing forward on the shaft, turn it and push it back. This only works on alt,s that
are three bolt, some makes are four bolt and so can't be done.

Colin
 
Dave3066 said:
This is the bracket I have

Dave
Click to expand...

Now i think that i remember...

This is a 2 part bracket, the inner that bolts to the block and the outer, that the dynamo / alternator is bolted to.
The problem with using this combination into a series 1 car, is that there is not enough space behind the pulleys to accomodate the extension of the inner bracket that the nylon strap in the photo is bolted to. In order to overcome this, i used the inner bracket from the dynamo installation, and held the alternator with a single nylon strap, just like the dynamo. As the alternator is significantly lighter in comparison with the dynamo, the single nylon strap was more than adequate.
I have never figured out the reason for the complicated factory alternator installation though...
 
Demetris said:
I used the inner bracket from the dynamo installation, and held the alternator with a single nylon strap, just like the dynamo
Click to expand...

I couldn't figure out what the right angled extension that the blue nylon strap is attached to was for either. My plan is the same as yours to remove the outer part of the mount and bolt it onto the dynamo mount. A bit of adjustment to align the pulleys and it should work.

Thanks Demetris

Dave
 
There's a crowd that offers a modification to keep the shape and look of a Dynamo but with the gubbins of an alternator for the looks conscious brigade.
 
unstable load said:
There's a crowd that offers a modification to keep the shape and look of a Dynamo but with the gubbins of an alternator for the looks conscious brigade.
Click to expand...

Indeed, but at an eye watering price. :roll:
 
Demetris said:
unstable load said:
There's a crowd that offers a modification to keep the shape and look of a Dynamo but with the gubbins of an alternator for the looks conscious brigade.
Click to expand...

Indeed, but at an eye watering price. :roll:
Click to expand...

There are two versions of this, one is £150 and the other is £300. When I called both suppliers to ask the difference the cheap one simply said the other was overpriced. The dearer of the 2 said they provided a quality product built in the UK, not some cheap version with Chinese components :LOL:

Dave
 
As tends to happen with a 50 year old car, events have kinda overtaken my planned conversions. The ignition light came on 5 minutes after leaving work to drive home yesterday evening. I pulled in and had wee look to see what might be up and to my surprise the dynamo was wobbling quite a bit on its mount but still spinning. Not being able to do anything where I'd stopped I managed to coax the car home using minimal electrics (headlamps were biggest draw as all the other lights are LED). When I looked under the car at the dynamo mount the rear nut and bolt were completely missing and the front bolt was loose. Rather than mess about trying to find out what was up I replaced the dynamo with my good spare and also fitted a new fan belt. I've now fitted lock nuts to both front and rear mounting bolts so hopefully they won't come loose again until I need them too.

I suspect the old dynamo has failed completely so I'll strip it and fit new brushes (not bad for 100,000 miles). If the replacement keeps the battery charged I'll not bother with the alternator conversion for now. I think it's still a good idea to do it eventually but the dynamo is such a heavy lump and a pain to fit that having done the job I'm in no mood to do any more for now.

Normal charging service has resumed :D

Dave
 
Dave,

On my P5B, i also did the alternator conversion to the A127 after i was in a traffic jam last winter and the battery was empty due to the lights, heater fan, window wipers. The A127 charges at idle which the original hardly did. The conversion is simple as these were fitted to the Range Rovers i believe.
The parts are very cheap: i payed approx GBP 25 for an overhaul kit which contained bearings, slip rings, brushes/brush holder and rectifier/regulator. A completer alternator can be bought for Gbp 50,-

Peter
 
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