Electric fans/ non OEM radiator?
- Thread starter J1MMY
- Start date
corazon
Well-Known Member
When i bought my v8 in april it was fitted with a kenlowe fan, which was 100% fine until the seal on the top rad hose went bad, coupled with a leaky rad.
It wasn't happy in the summer.
Someone (not on this forum) convinced me to swap it for the original mechanical fan. They also kindly repaired my radiator
After fitting fan, flushing and refilling rad with new antifreeze, two things happened:
Car ran under temp, rarely reaching 85;
Fuel consumption went up drastically;
So I unbolted it, reconnected kenlowe and made a really good seal.
It's been running bang on 85 now and hasn't gone anywhere near the red.
There's less noise from the front and she feels quicker again
I think dual kenlowe fans is prob the way to go with a standard radiator, if in traffic a lot in the summer etc. Anyone?
Jim
It wasn't happy in the summer.
Someone (not on this forum) convinced me to swap it for the original mechanical fan. They also kindly repaired my radiator
After fitting fan, flushing and refilling rad with new antifreeze, two things happened:
Car ran under temp, rarely reaching 85;
Fuel consumption went up drastically;
So I unbolted it, reconnected kenlowe and made a really good seal.
It's been running bang on 85 now and hasn't gone anywhere near the red.
There's less noise from the front and she feels quicker again
I think dual kenlowe fans is prob the way to go with a standard radiator, if in traffic a lot in the summer etc. Anyone?
Jim
westOz74P6B
Member
I managed to fit two 10" electric aftermarket (not Kenlowe, but similar availiable here in Oz) fans across the top of the standard (two row) radiator, as my viscous coupling was showing signs of leaking so put in electric before viscous packed up. At a normal cruising speed there would be enough airflow through the radiator to suffice as the electric fans only cut in when say in slow moving traffic or at standstill when extra coolong air is required to keep the water temp down and of course it would come on sooner when in hot climates and stay on that little bit longer. The capillary tube type thermostat is used on mine which feeds around the top hose with the cresent rubber seal to help seal it, I find (and use) the (Loctite) Master gasket sealant is very effective in helping to provide a good seal with the capillary tube in place and in fact a smear on all hose joints helps in fitting the hose and it sets (and seals) once hose clips are tightened. They (electric fan instructions) say to fit a similar sized fan to the belt driven one you are replacing to maintain airflow for the particular radiator but in my case (13 blade plastic fan 16" dia) I didn't have the space to fit a 16" fan so went for two 10" fans (which I suppose would be the same as one 20" fan) which would be better airflow than standard anyway. And I'm having no trouble with my set up here in Oz once set to the correct cut in temperature,
The blades on the aftermarket fans are straight but still work well (I think Kenlowe's are curved? which is an later better type design)
Regards,
The blades on the aftermarket fans are straight but still work well (I think Kenlowe's are curved? which is an later better type design)
Regards,
There are some simple guidlines to follow here. First make sure your existing radiator is not below par. Personally I would have it recored anyway with the biggest core your rad shop can get in it - normally a three row as against the standard two row. Then get the rad shop to fit a standard fan switch from a modern car into the side tank. This eliminates all the hassle with these capilliaries under the top hose. Next source rad fans to cover a minimum of 50% of the radiators surface area, ideally about 70%. It doesn't make a huge amount of difference where they come from! I like West Oz's twin 10" set up or you could use bigger fans and mount one behind and one in front in diagonally opposite corners. Fans are ideally placed behind the rad so that the rad offers some protection to the fan motors, but with modern fan designs it's less important.
Finally check the rest of the cooling system is up to scratch with a good flushing (including the heater) and new hoses as appropriate. A new water pump and thermostat wouldn't hurt while you were at it! Then the deep joy and improved power and fuel consumption of throwing the engine driven fan in the skip!
Chris
Finally check the rest of the cooling system is up to scratch with a good flushing (including the heater) and new hoses as appropriate. A new water pump and thermostat wouldn't hurt while you were at it! Then the deep joy and improved power and fuel consumption of throwing the engine driven fan in the skip!
Chris
campingstoveman
New Member
Gentlemen,
May I put the cat amongst the pidgeons here. I have had my V8 for three years now and initiallly had heating problems, not getting hot enough, but after replacing an incorrect pressure cap, a faulty temperature sensor and as already stated back flushed the whole cooling circuit and replaced a few hoses mine now runs at the correct temperature.
I have taken it on long runs and in heavy slow traffic and it gives no cause for alarm and as for noise I dont notice any infact my two year old Vauxhall van gives more noise and vibration when its fan starts up than the Rover does.
What am I mssing, the heater works well I get 25 mpg on a run and its got more than enough grunt for me.
Martin P
May I put the cat amongst the pidgeons here. I have had my V8 for three years now and initiallly had heating problems, not getting hot enough, but after replacing an incorrect pressure cap, a faulty temperature sensor and as already stated back flushed the whole cooling circuit and replaced a few hoses mine now runs at the correct temperature.
I have taken it on long runs and in heavy slow traffic and it gives no cause for alarm and as for noise I dont notice any infact my two year old Vauxhall van gives more noise and vibration when its fan starts up than the Rover does.
What am I mssing, the heater works well I get 25 mpg on a run and its got more than enough grunt for me.
Martin P
When I bought Sparky, he was fitted with a 12" kenlowe which worked most of the time. Not when sitting in Whitby on a hot day in July however.
Bear in mind that Sparky's engine is not stock in that it is bigger and has thin walled stainless manifolds which have caused me no end of heat related problems. It overheated.
I went out and found a 14" electric fan and connected it to the standard kenlowe switch gear
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/14-SLIM-HIGH-PERF ... 2a02bbab87
Works a treat now; temp always sits at 85 unless I get into a jam, then it never goes above 90.
This chap is less than a mile from work for me so didn't have to pay carriage
Richard
Bear in mind that Sparky's engine is not stock in that it is bigger and has thin walled stainless manifolds which have caused me no end of heat related problems. It overheated.
I went out and found a 14" electric fan and connected it to the standard kenlowe switch gear
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/14-SLIM-HIGH-PERF ... 2a02bbab87
Works a treat now; temp always sits at 85 unless I get into a jam, then it never goes above 90.
This chap is less than a mile from work for me so didn't have to pay carriage
Richard
ripvanwinkle
New Member
Hi RVW had a long summer of niggling cooling problems . These were cured by
Replacing all the hoses .
Flushing the block and heater energetically, using a hose connected to a Tee fitted into the old heater feed hose . This shifteda ton of old crud !!!
Recoring the radiator with a 3 row core . The original unit had several tiny holes which only opened up under full pressure and temperature .
Refilling and Burping the rad , using 50% anti freeze [ It gets cold in Montreal in the winter!!!]
Fitting a new high quality radiator cap , replacing a cheap and nasty Chinese version .
I also fitted a radiator over flow catch tank to collect any coolant expelled when the radiator got hot . This is a simple non pressurised bottle fitted to the radiator vent pipe . Over flow vents into the tank and is returned to the header tank via the the vent line as the engine cools down
This is the system used on Japanese cars and works fine . You don't have to find a pressurised header tank and worry about looking for a high point above the normal radiator level to install it
RVW still has the original viscous coupling fan and can now run at 85C for long periods of heavy traffic at low speeds in 35C weather
Cheers
RVW
Replacing all the hoses .
Flushing the block and heater energetically, using a hose connected to a Tee fitted into the old heater feed hose . This shifteda ton of old crud !!!
Recoring the radiator with a 3 row core . The original unit had several tiny holes which only opened up under full pressure and temperature .
Refilling and Burping the rad , using 50% anti freeze [ It gets cold in Montreal in the winter!!!]
Fitting a new high quality radiator cap , replacing a cheap and nasty Chinese version .
I also fitted a radiator over flow catch tank to collect any coolant expelled when the radiator got hot . This is a simple non pressurised bottle fitted to the radiator vent pipe . Over flow vents into the tank and is returned to the header tank via the the vent line as the engine cools down
This is the system used on Japanese cars and works fine . You don't have to find a pressurised header tank and worry about looking for a high point above the normal radiator level to install it
RVW still has the original viscous coupling fan and can now run at 85C for long periods of heavy traffic at low speeds in 35C weather
Cheers
RVW