Electronic Ignition (worth converting)

i believe the modelnr can be found on the housing of the distributor. Otherwise loosen the bolt and clamp and pull it out and make a picture of it and send it to Powerspark.
you should also order the new coil as it is a high energy coil.
 
Here is a picture with on the RH side a P5B distributor which is , i believe identical to the P6B distributor. In the middle you see a Range Rover distributor and on the LH side a SD1 distributor.
The biggest difference is the P5B/P6B being "male"type connection to the oil pump and the RR and SD1 are "female"type. This refers to an kind of connector underneath the gear with the RR and SD1 type and no "connector"on the P5B/P6B distributor. The other difference is that the RR and SD1 are electronic ignitions and the P5B/P6B with points

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harveyp6 said:
Disconnect the ballast wire, and wire in your own ignition controlled 12v supply.
Click to expand...
Is the ballast the picture I included earlier in the post, sort of ceramic block with a coil of copper inside situated just under the coil? Would I just take the leads off either end and connect together bypassing the ballast or isolate and insulate both ends and leave disconnected?
 
eadmr04 said:
Is the ballast the picture I included earlier in the post, sort of ceramic block with a coil of copper inside situated just under the coil? Would I just take the leads off either end and connect together bypassing the ballast or isolate and insulate both ends and leave disconnected?
Click to expand...

You really are the lucky one aren't you? Either remove and connect the two wires together, or if the wire is long enough, fit the supply wire to the ballast resistor directly to the coil terminal.
 
Is the sole purpose of the ballast resistor to reduce the current to the coil and nothing else? By removing it, it would have no affect on anything else?
 
The purpose of the ballast resistor is that it is the resistor is bypassed when starting the car. The starter, due to the high current reduces the voltage during starting. By bypassing the ballast resistor during the starting process the coil gets a decent voltage, The original coil with the ballast resistor is a 6V coil. The one supplied by Powerspark is a 12V coil so you have to get rid of the ballast resistor.
 
Did some testing last night and have 13.9v into one side of the ballast resistor and 7.9v from the other side and the coil tests 3 ohms across the terminals. The coil says 12v but thought it should be 6v? In the pic I have a wire from the dissy going to the negative side of the coil and a wire from the loom with the power to one part of the terminal on the positive side and another wire going from the other positive terminal to the round cylindrical component which is mounted to the wing. What is this other component?

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It says 12V but it also says "external resistance" which could mean that the coil in combination with an external resistor is a 12V system. But the coil is a 6V coil
You can measure the ohms of the coil. A normal 6 coil would be approx. 1.3 - 1.5 ohms and a 12 volt coil between 3 and 3.5 ohms. Some electronic ohm meters can play up with this measurement.
 
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