Electronic Ignition

It looks the same as the kits sold for a few quid less by simonbbc. I've used one of his on a Land Rover 4-cylinder and it works fine. At the time that was the only kit he sold (also fitted Minis, etc.), but the range seems to be expanding.
 
These looks nice, what's the dizzy on the 4 pot? Just about to service my old girl ready for the summer. I always know when the points and timing are on the way our as she starts to run a bit warm. So a contact-less system is attractive option.
 
Lucas 25D4 on most 4 pots. Mine has a Pertronix kit bought from Retro Rockets. Works well, but cost a fair bit more than those from simonbbc etc.
 
The seller has received a lot of positive feedback on the module, esp. for the 25D dizzy ones. Might go for one.

Rockdemon, I've often asked the same question. Not many have tried more than one type, but those with Lumenition swear by it to be sure. My old V8 had one for 19 years and it had always worked very well indeed. Replacing old, corroded (connectors) 8mm spark wires for 7mm ones stole some performance though, so whichever electronic system I go for it will be supplemented with Magnecor 8 or 8,5 mm leads.

Edit to point out what I myself had missed - it needs an unballasted coil. I am still unsure what is the benefit of one vs. the stock setup on the V8 :?
 
Hello all. I've fitted the previously mentioned kit supplied by simonbbc to my V8. It was very easy to fit and looks to be pretty much the same kit as the one in this thread. So far (touch wood), I've had nothing but good running from it. I did need to bypass the ballast resistor (which was surprisingly straight forward to do) and fitted a lucas sports coil in place of the original plus 8mm magnecor leads.
I do however carry the original points, coil etc in the boot and have left the original ballasted cable in place just in case :LOL:
Will.
 
I have a later V8 and the ballast resistance is incorporated in the main dash harness according to the workshop manual, can anyone please advise how to bypass this resistor to enable me to fit this electronic system from Simonbbc!

Mike.
 
Hello Mike, from what I remember that sounds the same as mine. I think the ballasted wire runs from the tacho? What I did was disconnect that cable and insulate it, then ran a new wire from the tacho to the coil. I think it was just a case of soldering a bullet type connector to the wire to fit into the tacho, then route it behind the dash and through the hole in the bulkhead where the loom runs. I left the original ballasted cable in place just in case I ever need to revert to the original set-up. This was my first attempt at automotive electrics and happily it was quite straightforward to do :) . Hope this helps.

Will.
 
Hi Will,

Many thanks for your reply, spent a couple of hours this afternoon dismantling dash and fitting my electronic ignition and after cross referencing with the Rover workshop wiring diagram for my 3500 from chassis suffix ‘E’ have came to the following conclusions:-
It seems that the ballast resistor (45) for mine is located between the coil (44 white/yellow) and the main fuse box (74 white - fuse 19-20) and is in the opposite direction from the tacho! As yet have not attempted to start/test and would like to clarify in assuming mine to be different to yours!
Any help would be more than welcome.

Mike.
 
MetPolP6 said:
Hi Will,

Many thanks for your reply, spent a couple of hours this afternoon dismantling dash and fitting my electronic ignition and after cross referencing with the Rover workshop wiring diagram for my 3500 from chassis suffix ‘E’ have came to the following conclusions:-
It seems that the ballast resistor (45) for mine is located between the coil (44 white/yellow) and the main fuse box (74 white - fuse 19-20) and is in the opposite direction from the tacho! As yet have not attempted to start/test and would like to clarify in assuming mine to be different to yours!
Any help would be more than welcome.

Mike.
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,

Not sure when the change was but some earlier tacho's hook up to the +ve coil terminal whereas it sounds as if yours is to the -ve. Like mine.

Check out page 2 of my Pertronix thread >here<.

There's an extract from my wiring diagram about 1/2 way down the page. Is this the same as yours?

You'll see on the thread I took my 12V supply for the Pertronix from the washer pump, but left the ballast wire in circuit to the coil +ve - on the advice of Pertronix - and it works fine.

Hope that helps! :)

Cheers,
 
vaultsman said:
Hi Mike,

Not sure when the change was but some earlier tacho's hook up to the +ve coil terminal whereas it sounds as if yours is to the -ve. Like mine.

Check out page 2 of my Pertronix thread >here<.

There's an extract from my wiring diagram about 1/2 way down the page. Is this the same as yours?

You'll see on the thread I took my 12V supply for the Pertronix from the washer pump, but left the ballast wire in circuit to the coil +ve - on the advice of Pertronix - and it works fine.

Hope that helps! :)

Cheers,
Click to expand...


Hi Stan,

Yes the wiring diagram is the same as yours, and when you think about connecting to a differnt power suply it makes sense! I will give it a go tommorrow and hopefully all will be resolved. :)

Many thanks to you and Will for your responces and help. :D

Mike.
 
The change in the ballast cable must have come in late '72 or early '73 as on my '72 car the resistor runs from the tacho to coil. On the '73 cars IIRC it's different. Will the tacho still work with the kit shown at the start of the post?
Regards,
Dave
 
dmcsweeney said:
The change in the ballast cable must have come in late '72 or early '73 as on my '72 car the resistor runs from the tacho to coil. On the '73 cars IIRC it's different. Will the tacho still work with the kit shown at the start of the post?
Regards,
Dave
Click to expand...

Dave, I have the kit by simonbbc and it looks to be identical to the one at the start of this post. My tacho seems to work fine with the kit installed.
 
hi all,i have just fitted the above to my v8,it did have a slight miss every now and then with the old points and condensor and since fitting it,it seems to have dissapeared so far so thumbs up 4 now Bri :D :D
 
Just to report:-

Now that I have successfully established how to bypass the 'Ballast Resistor' with the help of other forum members on my late P6 and different set-ups with the P6 V8 range, I'm now at last up and running :D with a more smoother running and easier start up. I can say that I am very happy with this system from Simonbbc, and for anyone who is interested he can be found at this link:-

http://www.simonbbc.com/automotiveshop/

Again my thanks to everyone who helped :D

Mike.
 
Tor said:
Hi,

Any issues with the rotor sitting too high on the shaft?
Click to expand...

I had this issue the first time I tried to fit the Pertronix kit to mine. Actually broke the centre contact on the dizzy cap and I had to buy a new one which had more internal height and fitted ok. Original dizzy cap was black and replacement was blue if that's any help.

Dave
 
So I got the ignition module but ran out of luck :cry: I've got the wrong distributor/baseplate and the module wouldn't go in at all like it did on Vaultsman's car. Anyone in the know? Apparently my '73 engine has the early type dizzy. EDIT to add it's got the non-circular baseplate. Are baseplates interchangeable or is there more to it?

Returning the item to simonbbc to swap for a new coil while I find a module that fits. Simon says some of his 35DLM8 electronic distributors have gone into P6s in the past with no mods. He's sending me a photo of the axle on one of them that I'll post for comment...

While working on the car I found the ballast unit, which is mounted on the coil bracket, was feeding 12,82V (newish battery!) into the coil. Might be what gives my engine the stutters and fries the points. Also found one of the two neg terminal spades had broken off and a previous owner had spliced three wires onto the remaining one.
 
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