Electronic Ignition

I bought one of these kits for my Midget, fitted it and never looked back. I had to fiddle with the timing a little but that was it. Great value for money and work very well
 
Looking at electronic ignition for my 22 tc. SimonBBC seems to be the man of the moment. Thing is I have looked on various different sites and have come away a bit confused. Some info seems to suggest a £25 from the above is all you need to do the job, some suggest a replacement coil and some even suggest replacing the dizzy also. The module itself seems to be very cost effective. 2 questions Electronic coil seems to about £20 which is not exspensive, but what is the actual improvement over a standard coil? Does anybody know? Electronic distributors are about £55 again not exspensive but again same question really. Any advice appreciated
 
Rockdemon, I've been thoroughly confused about this myself. Some say the electronic module should have an unballasted coil, others say it'll work fine regardless. Those claiming the former either bypass the resistor, or replace the coil AND bypass the resistor because the module is said to work best with a hi-perfomance or electronic-dedicated coil. So in the end I've gone for just that and ordered a Pertronix kit with a chrome FlameThrower coil, since the manufacturer recommends the pair, and it's just arrived. :)
 
Hi Tor,

Sounds like the best way to go to me. I suspect they extremely similar in terms of circuitry but in terms of getting a matched pair of components that are guaranteed to work together I dont think you can beat the solution you have chosen...

Rich.
 
Hi Rich,

I reckon I'm in safe waters here too. Assuming all goes well I'll be adding my voice to the chorus celebrating the Ignitor in the near future... 8)
 
I've got lumenition on mine. To be honest i've been concentrating on other things so havent checked the circuit that is in use. I'd expect again with lumenition that the higher powered coil will give an improvement....

Rich
 
Tor said:
Rockdemon, I've been thoroughly confused about this myself. Some say the electronic module should have an unballasted coil, others say it'll work fine regardless. Those claiming the former either bypass the resistor, or replace the coil AND bypass the resistor because the module is said to work best with a hi-perfomance or electronic-dedicated coil. So in the end I've gone for just that and ordered a Pertronix kit with a chrome FlameThrower coil, since the manufacturer recommends the pair, and it's just arrived. :)
Click to expand...

Tor

I did the same for my car. Bought the Pertronix kit with the Flamethrower coil and connected the coil to the existing wiring - no problems.

I wired the Pertronix supply to the ignition switched 12V supply for the washer bottle motor - no problems there either.

Hope yours works likewise.

Dave
 
rockdemon wrote,...
I've got lumenition on mine. To be honest i've been concentrating on other things so havent checked the circuit that is in use. I'd expect again with lumenition that the higher powered coil will give an improvement....
Click to expand...

Hello Rich,

Is your Lumenition power module silver or black? If silver, then this module must be used with a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor (which is what the Rover's inbuilt resistive wire is) and the coil primary resistance must be in the range of 1.2 to 1.5 ohms. If your high powered coil has a primary resistance of less than 1.2 ohms, then the power module will be damaged and total ignition failure is a very real possibility.. :shock:

Ron.
 
Hi Ron,

It's silver... It's probably all right anyway, just that i obviously need to check over the exact spec of everything which is installed on the car...

Took it round the block a few times earlier - weakened the mix down enough that i can get it restarted and turned the idle speed up a little till i get the bits i need to finish it off :O)

Rich
 
Started fitting my new toys last night but got rained on so turned in early. The Ignitor module fits perfectly, wires are just long enough. No issues with the rotor grinding against the (blue) cap either.

The Flame Thrower coil packaging says something interesting, that the higher current allows an increased spark plug gap for increased power and economy... I'm sure I can read about it in tuning books and such, but has anyone tried this on a stock V8?
 
Tor said:
Started fitting my new toys last night but got rained on so turned in early. The Ignitor module fits perfectly, wires are just long enough. No issues with the rotor grinding against the (blue) cap either.

The Flame Thrower coil packaging says something interesting, that the higher current allows an increased spark plug gap for increased power and economy... I'm sure I can read about it in tuning books and such, but has anyone tried this on a stock V8?
Click to expand...

Hi Tor

Glad to hear it's all going together well. Yes I've just fitted new plugs to my stock V8 and gapped the plugs at 30 thou. I haven't noticed any real difference to be honest, but I've only done about a hundred miles on them so far.

Dave
 
Hi Dave,

I'll see about gapping my plugs then too...

Fitted the Ignitor, FlameThrower coil, new black diz cap and blue Magnecor leads and she fired right up. Timing needs retarding as it (still) pinks a little. Also tidied up the wiring to the coil. First impression is that it's smoother and more responsive with more low-end torque but not a lot: Must see about my vacuum advance, as the carb end elbow is split and the baseplate doesn't move when I suck on the pipe... But all as expected, it's grateful work this :D
 
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