Engine upgrade

Should be a big number (the length) then a dash , followed by a 35 or a 38 , which will be your diameter
Ignore the other numbers
 
Thanks Dave , had a look , looking like 35mm .
Onto the next issue , I ordered a 16 inch universal fan , advertised as push pull .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400153772560? ... 1497.l2649

I tried it across the battery and by simply reversing the polarity it wont make it push air , and the blades wont fit the other way because of the hitting fan cover . The seller is giving a refund , still a hassle though . Any one got any advice on a where to get one that will push air ?Most on ebay advertise as push /pull but unless you can turn the fan blades over i don't see how . Spinning the motor the other way just turns the fan in the wrong direction . Don't want the expense of a kenlowe though :?

Ps would a 14 inch be up to the job , measuring up the 16 inch is a tight fit as the 16 inches refers to the blade diameter not the housing .
 
Why not use this as a puller? 2.5 inches would surely fit in behind the rad once the mechanical fan is removed or is the water pump nose too close?

Also the seller seems fairly emphatic that it can be reversed, what was his explanation to achieve this? or are the good not what he (or she) says?

Graeme
 
Hi Graeme . The nose of the water pump would be in the way . Have read you can cut it down but that takes away the option of refitting the engine fan in an emergency , and i don't want to start hacking a good water pump about .
The seller says reverse the motor but the fan is concave and in my oppinion would need to be turned over to push . He didn't seem that confident and offered a refund ( or a identical replacement :? how would that help )
 
Hi Stina,

The Dunlop hoses that I have bear the following....|D| |952 X 91 24 B4| and then it repeats. The diameter of the hose both internal and external at the engine end is larger than that at the radiator end. This flaring is only at one end where the the hose fits over the inlet manifold outlet, so it apprears that the remainder of the hose is of a constant diameter which internally is 32 to 33mm.

None of the numbers on the hose seem to bear any relation to this.

On the subject of the fan, does your engine really get that hot that the temp needle sits close to the red in warm or hot weather? I have no experience with the fixed metal fan.

Ron.
 
Hi Ron thanks for that , that backs up the measurements i took on a spare hose i have , but i wasn't sure .
I don't have any cooling issues , but i have had expereanse of electric fans before . Quicker warm up times , and piece of mind in heavy traffic being big advantages .
Stina
 
Hi guys , spoke to the supplier of this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Cool ... 3f1397cd98

and have been assured it will push . What do you all think of the 14 inch option , will it cope ? Will certainly be easier to install , the 16 inch is tight !

Ps interested in your opinion Mr Quattro , believe you run a 14 inch . In front or behind rad ? How does it cope ?
 
Hi Guys . Been busy looking for a fan to suit , i've found the cheep fans on ebay advertised as universal push/pull by reversing the polarity of the motor don't actually work . Although the fan will run in reverse they wont move any air unless you can turn the blades over on the shaft , as the blades are handed . I've had to return two fans to two different suppliers , and they have refunded with no problems when the above was pointed out .
Anyhoo , i've now bought this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14-ELECTRIC-E ... 8966035662

And this to control it

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct. ... de=080.872

I wont be fitting it for a month or so as i want to do the oil pump and timing gear upgrade while the rad is out , And i haven't the pennies to buy those bits for a few weeks ( I'm in no big hurry )
Question , where best to take the electrical feed for the fan relay ?

I'll post more as i get parts and progress .
Stina
 
stina said:
Hi guys , spoke to the supplier of this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Cool ... 3f1397cd98

and have been assured it will push . What do you all think of the 14 inch option , will it cope ? Will certainly be easier to install , the 16 inch is tight !

Ps interested in your opinion Mr Quattro , believe you run a 14 inch . In front or behind rad ? How does it cope ?

It copes just fine - as soon as the temperature moves a hairs breadth, off it goes and sorts everything out.

If you use the revotec adjustable controller, make sure you mount it upright as the rubber seal on top falls off and you'll lose it DAMHIKT

harveyp6 said:
Avoid mounting that directly to the rad matrix as when done that way eventually they make the rad leak.

:oops: I only did it for quickness and did mean to fix it properly when I had the time :(
 
quattro said:
:oops: I only did it for quickness and did mean to fix it properly when I had the time :(

I only mentioned it after seeing what was supplied with the fan, rather than pointing out the errors of those that have done it that way......But....As you seem to be working through quite a long list of jobs at the moment, I think adding that one to the end would be a good idea. (And I think you probably think so too.)
 
stina said:
Question , where best to take the electrical feed for the fan relay ?

For ease of fitting I wired mine into the battery stud under the pedals/carpet inside the car, but it really needs to be wired into the ammeter shunt behind the dash so that the ammeter reads negative when the fan is on.

If you do wire it to the ammeter shunt, take a pic or two for when I decide to rewire mine. :)
 
Noted on the fitting clips through the rad , have to think about that one . Any advice on the best source of an electrical feed ? Ps i don't want it running with the ignition off , cant see the point in that as the water not circulating .
 
stina said:
Ps i don't want it running with the ignition off , cant see the point in that as the water not circulating .


You should have it wired to run with the ignition off, as when you stop the heat builds up and the fan will cut the temp down and then cut itself out on the thermoswitch.
 
my electric fan is supplied from the live side of the fusebox (S1 car), powers a relay through a 17A fuse. the fan switch is in the car and takes a live from the ignition switch to the low current side of the relay. Mine's not automatic - the kenlowe temp controlled relay burned itself and then the ignition switch out. I just keep an eye on the temp and stick the fan on if it's getting warm.

what Harvey says about heat soak is true, but I prefer to have that and not have the fan on while I walk away... (also, with no thermo switch, I don't have this option!)
 
Sorry Paul , i'd already posted that . Is there somewhere on the fuse box for a feed ? I thought i'd read on here somewhere not to mess with that shunt thing ( i wont even pretend i know what it is or does :? )

So where to take the live from then Harvey :?: I understand the heat builds when you switch off but without the water pump turning it'd only cool the rad , drain the battery , plus worry me walking away leaving it running ! Thoughts :?:
 
You can take the feed for the switching side of the circuit anywhere on the fuse box that is live when the ignition key is at position II. Your power feed for the fan motor needs to be wired directly to the battery as it will pull far more current than the standard fuse box can handle, hence why I connected mine to the floor stud on the battery cable under the pedals.
 
stina said:
So where to take the live from then Harvey :?: I understand the heat builds when you switch off but without the water pump turning it'd only cool the rad , drain the battery , plus worry me walking away leaving it running ! Thoughts :?:

You can take the battery supply from the connector in the footwell, or the ammeter shunt, as long as you fuse it, and run that through a relay which you can power up from a (thermo)switched supply off the battery control fuse.(Or any other permanent live for that matter, just be sure it's fused somewhere along the line.)
The fan will shift all of the heat bleeding out of the rad and the engine after you've switched off. It will blow it from under the bonnet out under the car to outside. It won't flatten the battery if the thermoswitch works, and if you're that worried just wait until it cuts out before you leave the car.
 
Back
Top