Fitting electric pump at rear, retaining reserve tap

mrtask

mrtask

Well-Known Member
I'm at the stage where I have to refit my petrol tank, getting all the breather pipes in the right place, and relocating the fuel reserve tap to the back of the car. I want to fit an electric pump after the tap. I can drill out the spot welds fixing the tap mounting bracket in the engine bay of my parts donor. I found a photo of a rear-mounted electric pump on britishv8.org, of Lance LeCerte's lovely restored NADA V8:
Rover3500S-RS-C.jpg

Where do I want to mount the tap bracket, and how, i.e. will nuts'n'bolts'n'spring washers be OK? Bolted to the panel beneath the rear seat squabs? What kind of fuel line do I need to buy to run from the reserve tap to the pump, then from the pump to the engine bay? What internal diameter, and how much hose (it is sold here by the metre)?
Emerging up into the engine bay, the new hose goes where? Across the bulkhead, along the top of the passenger side frame rail, along the engine tie-bar, to a filter, then to the carb, right? Should I drill a hole in the back of the passenger side steering 'turret' (?) and run the fuel line through the 'turret', emerging through the blanking plate and then along the frame rail?
Do I presumably have to run a new reserve cable alongside the new single long fuel line? Do I need a bracket of some sort at the end of that new longer cable? Where do I get such a cable, and presumably cable-outer/sleeve?
I'm betting this has been covered before, perhaps in a back issue of the P6 Owners Club magazine? Or that one of you chaps has carried out this task and can give me some hints.
I'll need to run wiring from the oil pump low-pressure sensor fuel pump cut-out (I have an SD1 timing cover). That runs alongside the new fuel line and longer reserve cable beneath the car, or into and through the passenger compartment, then out to the fuel pump beneath?
Look forward to some help here, I'm in uncharted terrain.
 
Hi Mr.Task. I have dug out 2 old copies of P6 news from oct and dec 1994, where there is an excellent article on the vapour lock subject, and how to fix it, included the option you have chosen. Unfortunately it is not displayen in the P6 index section on the club page, but if you are interested, I can scan the 7 A-4 pages and mail you. I have partly done this job myself, and located the pump on the RH side inside the "chassis rail" behind the spring. There are actually pictures in the article by Bob
Russel. Give me a shout if you want it.
regards, Barten
 
Many thanks Barten and Brian for digging through your old back issues of P6 News. Brian, thanks for taking the time to scan the articles and make them available. I'm very grateful. I hope I eventually meet up with some of the helpful members of this forum when I return to the UK and visit a rally and/or car show or two, at some point, when the beers will be on me.
Joseph, I'll send you an email or a PM, or give you a ring, regarding the NADA reserve cable, tap and bracket. Thanks for letting me know you have them. There are a few other bits and bobs I also need to get hold of, so I'll get in touch with you.
 
Thanks for posting that up Brian, that could be the most useful article I ever read in the club magazine!

I'm hoping to have a go at that project this week as I didn't particularly enjoy sitting at the side of the road waiting for it to cool down for an hour and 20 minutes on my way home from work on Friday evening.
 
One thing that differs between the RHD NADA cars and the LHD ones is the electric cut-off switch for the electric fuel pump.

In the boot, there is a push-pull switch - same as for the windows, rear heated window etc - that when pushed in, cuts off the electric fuel pump.

Not sure if this was to be a safety design for the British cars or not, but I've not seen it on the LHD NADA cars out there.. unless someone wants to prove me wrong?
 
Just a quick note to say that I have just done the electric fuel pump conversion exactly as described in the articles that Brian posted above. It's a very neat solution and not as hard as you'd think. The reserve tap has been relocated to the back and will function as before once I make a new bracket and cable.

I need to tidy things up under there at the weekend so I'll take some pictures and post them up for you to see.
 
Hello,
Now that it's 2022 (where does time go...) the links above don't seem to work. I'm looking to move the reserve tap to the rear and would like to do a factory installation; can anyone help with a copy of the article mentioned?
many thanks,
Ed
 
Sparky's PO, fitted the pump under the rear seat, on the bobbins in the pic below. Then just connected the hoses up from the tank to the reserve, then to the pump and to the front of the car. He had a longer cable made up to work it and that was it.

I did move the pump to inside the boot as it was a little noisy under the floor.

reserve.jpg

Facet.jpg
 
.The manual has a picture or two of the factory facet pump installation. It uses a long cable which can get rather tight over the years as it does a u turn just after it starts. I've changed mine to operate by bell crank and a window motor using an electric switch. I might be able to get pictures in a week or two.
M
 
One way would be to use two pumps with an electric change over switch , fuel outlets need just to go into a T piece with one pipe to the front. The pumps have none return valves in them so they wont back feed to the tank . The Rover P4 used such a system for reserve with an SU double pump mounted at the rear
 
mikecoombs said:
.The manual has a picture or two of the factory facet pump installation. It uses a long cable which can get rather tight over the years as it does a u turn just after it starts. I've changed mine to operate by bell crank and a window motor using an electric switch. I might be able to get pictures in a week or two.
M
Click to expand...
Hi Mike,
That sounds very interesting, a pic would be great when you have a moment. Thanks.
 
Actually, after re reading what I wrote, I used a door lock motor not a window motor, I 'm hoping to have the car into the new shed soon and can take another pic. I did some at the time but can't find them....
I used an aftermarket door lock motor which has an interesting device wired in series with the motor which acts like a diode which reverses when the motor stalls under load. That made the wiring simple with a two position switch (forward and reverse) and only two wires. I mounted the motor in the corner of the cross member, all sealed up with silicone, and ran a rod to the bellcrank which turned the motion to longwise down the car and adjusted the stroke to that of the valve. I used an adjustable carburetor link rod with ball joints on each end for the longitudinal rod.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top