From one extreme to the next

rockdemon said:
I guess a pressure test or something. Dont listen too much to me though - wait till someone who knows what they're talking about makes a more educated guess ;)
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:LOL: everything helps
 
If the engine is so hot that it's burning off long lying residual oil and grease then it is running too hot. When that happens they just smell "HOT" too. Regardless of what you've done so far, you need to go back to the beginning and start again. (I don't mean replacing all the new parts you fitted, but I do mean checking them all very carefully), Along with all the normal suspects like the bleed pipe and manifold, and all the head gasket symptoms.
 
harveyp6 said:
If the engine is so hot that it's burning off long lying residual oil and grease then it is running too hot. When that happens they just smell "HOT" too. Regardless of what you've done so far, you need to go back to the beginning and start again. (I don't mean replacing all the new parts you fitted, but I do mean checking them all very carefully), Along with all the normal suspects like the bleed pipe and manifold, and all the head gasket symptoms.
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You're quite right Harvey it does smell 'hot' as well but as I say this as only happened today, so I can't see what has changed since I drove it yesterday? I will check everything again but other than emulsified oil ( oil cap and dipstick are clean) what other symptoms should I look out for with regards to the head gaskets?
 
Mikep said:
harveyp6 said:
what other symptoms should I look out for with regards to the head gaskets?
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Coolant loss, micro bubbles in the coolant, excess pressure in the cooling system, steam/condensation/antifreeze smell from the exhaust, but as always check all the other, easier, things first.
 
harveyp6 said:
Mikep said:
harveyp6 said:
what other symptoms should I look out for with regards to the head gaskets?
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Coolant loss, micro bubbles in the coolant, excess pressure in the cooling system, steam/condensation/antifreeze smell from the exhaust, but as always check all the other, easier, things first.
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I think I can confidently rule out those symptoms but I will do as you say and checked the other items first, cheers Harvey :)
 
stina said:
Is it possible you have an air lock in the system somewhere ?
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Possibly, it s something that I will check.

Just had a thought, seeing as this as just happened today and I have just remembered that I could hear a strange noise like something turning and rubbing against something else coming from the front of the engine when I popped the bonnet, could that be a noisy/failing water pump? If everything else is ok but I have poor coolant circulation this would cause overheating wouldn't it?
 
You need to rev the engine with the radiator cap off the see if the water level drops, ie the pump is working.
 
testrider said:
You need to rev the engine with the radiator cap off the see if the water level drops, ie the pump is working.
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I'll try that Paul, but I don't suppose there is a way of telling if its pumping strongly enough?
 
well mine drops about an inch from the top of the rad when i rev it - without an expansion tank yours should do similar i guess?

Rich
 
Mikep said:
testrider said:
You need to rev the engine with the radiator cap off the see if the water level drops, ie the pump is working.
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I'll try that Paul, but I don't suppose there is a way of telling if its pumping strongly enough?
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If the impeller has fallen off it won't be pumping at all, so there won't be any drop in the level as you rev the engine. I'd say you'd probably see a drop in the level of 4 to 6 " if the pump is working as it should.

Has it got an engine driven fan or electric?
 
rockdemon said:
well mine drops about an inch from the top of the rad when i rev it - without an expansion tank yours should do similar i guess?

Rich
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Thanks Rich, that will at least give me a comparison, I will check with the rad cap off.
 
rockdemon said:
well mine drops about an inch from the top of the rad when i rev it -
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Is that since the appearance of all the micro bubbles? If so that's why your level isn't dropping very much.
 
The thermostat should always ensure that it gets up to temperature, unless it's so cold that it doesn't get hot enough for the stat to open, and I can't see that happening. If the cooling system is that efficient then the stat will just close again.
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I agree with Harveyp6.
the 'stat is there to maintain temperature.
If you fitted a 10 row radiator, you should still be able to reach operating temperature, that is thermostat temp.
 
Hi Mike,

Are you able to rule out that the thermostat is actually opening at the specified temperature?

Twice I have had a thermostat that when it failed actually closed rather than remaining open, and the coolant temperature rose rapidly as a result approaching the red before I shut it down.

I would be inclined to replace it straight away as a matter of course, then keep an eye out for symptoms of head gasket failure which may have occured from the engine overheating.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Mike,

Are you able to rule out that the thermostat is actually opening at the specified temperature?

Twice I have had a thermostat that when it failed actually closed rather than remaining open, and the coolant temperature rose rapidly as a result approaching the red before I shut it down.

I would be inclined to replace it straight away as a matter of course, then keep an eye out for symptoms of head gasket failure which may have occured from the engine overheating.

Ron.
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Hi Ron,

I have been doing a bit of research tonight and was thinking of changing the stat as even new ones can fail and I can't rule that out on this one, it has only been on a couple of months and the car hasn't done much mileage, I think I will grab a genuine one from my local Land Rover dealer tomorrow. Fortunately I'm not losing any water at the moment .
 
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