fusebox
- Thread starter Hans
- Start date
Hello Hans,
The wires all come in from the top.
Ron.
The wires all come in from the top.
Ron.
Thank you Ron, i have problems with the outerlights the right is working but no wire life at the left side, so i can messure tommorow on the fusebox.
The innerlights are working mainbeam but when it works the right ouer beam goes out, i checked the earh wires but can not find a fealure on that tested with an "beeper"(if this is correct English?)
The innerlights are working mainbeam but when it works the right ouer beam goes out, i checked the earh wires but can not find a fealure on that tested with an "beeper"(if this is correct English?)
unstable load
Well-Known Member
Rig up a test lead with a headlight lamp in it so that you are drawing a
decent current when you test a circuit.
A beep tester will indicate a good circuit but will not tell you if it can
support the necessary current draw.
decent current when you test a circuit.
A beep tester will indicate a good circuit but will not tell you if it can
support the necessary current draw.
Hi, today i looked again at the lights.
When i turned the switch i have still only one light on the right.
Today looked at fuse 13-14 and 17-18 and changed one, now i have at mainlight? (i think you called so, the big light wecalled) working 4 lights.
question ; do somebody know if there is for the outerlight a fuse? i was thinking both outer lights have only 1 fuse but i am not sure.
kind regards Hans
When i turned the switch i have still only one light on the right.
Today looked at fuse 13-14 and 17-18 and changed one, now i have at mainlight? (i think you called so, the big light wecalled) working 4 lights.
question ; do somebody know if there is for the outerlight a fuse? i was thinking both outer lights have only 1 fuse but i am not sure.
kind regards Hans
Attachments
redrover
Well-Known Member
Hans,
The outer headlamps are dip/main beam units, whereas the inner lamps are just main beam. From the look of your photograph, it would seem that all 4 headlamps are working on full beam, but the dipped beam filament has blow in the outer right light. There is a separate filament for both main and dipped in the outer units, hence the slight flicker when you change between dip and main.
Check all the connections behind the lights, and if there is no change, I'd say take the outer light off the car and test in it isolation by placing a battery across the terminals in turn. If nothing happens on the dipped terminals, it's a blown filament. If the bulb lights, it must be a break in the wiring somewhere (most likely in the recess behind the lights themselves).
Michael
The outer headlamps are dip/main beam units, whereas the inner lamps are just main beam. From the look of your photograph, it would seem that all 4 headlamps are working on full beam, but the dipped beam filament has blow in the outer right light. There is a separate filament for both main and dipped in the outer units, hence the slight flicker when you change between dip and main.
Check all the connections behind the lights, and if there is no change, I'd say take the outer light off the car and test in it isolation by placing a battery across the terminals in turn. If nothing happens on the dipped terminals, it's a blown filament. If the bulb lights, it must be a break in the wiring somewhere (most likely in the recess behind the lights themselves).
Michael
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
Hans
There are 4 fuses protecting the headlamp circuits:
11-12 Headlamp main inner 25A
13-14 Headlamp main outer 15A
15-16 Headlamp RH dip 10A
17-18 Headlamp LH dip 10A
So in terms of your outer not lighting on dip beam then yes it operates from a different fuse to the other side.
Hope this helps.
Dave
There are 4 fuses protecting the headlamp circuits:
11-12 Headlamp main inner 25A
13-14 Headlamp main outer 15A
15-16 Headlamp RH dip 10A
17-18 Headlamp LH dip 10A
So in terms of your outer not lighting on dip beam then yes it operates from a different fuse to the other side.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Ok, thanks for replay.
Now i am not in the garage, but i look tomorrow again.
I changed the outer lights from left to right but no difference so i be sure the light is not broken.
I also checked the fuses 5amp for the small white lights on the top off the orange light and the red wire lifes but the small light is broken and i have no spare this moment.
When i looked at the picture, and fuses it must be fuses 15-16 or 17-18 ?
Then i have another question: Is it an big job to change the fusebox?
This one mounted in the car is a littlebit melted at fuse 11-12 i think( not sure but in the middle of the fuse box)
I have one spare from donor car witch looks better but i tryed to pull at the wires but the not coming loose.
Now i am not in the garage, but i look tomorrow again.
I changed the outer lights from left to right but no difference so i be sure the light is not broken.
I also checked the fuses 5amp for the small white lights on the top off the orange light and the red wire lifes but the small light is broken and i have no spare this moment.
When i looked at the picture, and fuses it must be fuses 15-16 or 17-18 ?
Then i have another question: Is it an big job to change the fusebox?
This one mounted in the car is a littlebit melted at fuse 11-12 i think( not sure but in the middle of the fuse box)
I have one spare from donor car witch looks better but i tryed to pull at the wires but the not coming loose.
JVY
Active Member
:idea: One other thing to check is that the fuseholder contacts for all the headlamp fuses that Dave mentions are making good contact with the fuses. I had problems a few months ago with my headlamps and it turned out that the fuse box contacts had loosened. This is a very common problem on P6 fuseboxes - the fuse contacts heat up and makes the plastic go soft, the contacts open up very slightly and you end up with an open circuit - even though the fuse feels as if it is clipping OK. I fixed mine by simply squeezing the fuse contacts gently with a small pliers.
Also make sure that you have the correct size fuses! Easily available today are 30mm fuses. These seem to fit, but are actually too short. The correct length is 32mm This might seem minor, but makes a very big difference. The smaller contact area to the fuse holder causes the fuse holder blades to heat up, with the previously mentioned effect tht the plactic of the fusebox softens and releases the tension on the blades. Just to alarm you further, the next stage after softening plastic is a fire! The plastic used is of a very low ignition temperature. People have changed fuse boxes for a modern type, and there is no reason not to do so. But it is a very fiddly job due to there not being much spare length in the wires. And you will have already noticed that the working position is very uncomfortable!
Correct fuses are available on Ebay here:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/towzatroni...40517019&_sid=672484169&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
Chris
Correct fuses are available on Ebay here:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/towzatroni...40517019&_sid=672484169&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
Chris
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
Hans
The fuse for the main beam circuit in particular will get pretty hot and once the plastic of the fusebox has melted, and you've pinched them back up to the fuse, it will always give you problems. Fitting relays to the main beam circuits will take away the majority of the load on the fuses in the fusebox and reduce the heat in them. I was very hesitant to leave the main beam on for too long before I fitted relays to mine as I knew it was only a matter of time before the fusebox melted again. I've had no such problems since.
Dave
The fuse for the main beam circuit in particular will get pretty hot and once the plastic of the fusebox has melted, and you've pinched them back up to the fuse, it will always give you problems. Fitting relays to the main beam circuits will take away the majority of the load on the fuses in the fusebox and reduce the heat in them. I was very hesitant to leave the main beam on for too long before I fitted relays to mine as I knew it was only a matter of time before the fusebox melted again. I've had no such problems since.
Dave
Hans said:
Yep - That's how Sparky got his name
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4907&start=0&hilit=melted
Great fun.
Disconnect the battery first and take loads of pictures as you take it apart. Take pics from all angles.
To remove the spades, slide a very small screwdriver between the spade and the plastic (In the channel) and gently ease it out of the back of the fusebox. There is a small tag/clip on the spade which needs to be pushed into the spade to allow it to come out. Push the clip back out when you have the spade out so that it will hold it into the new fusebox. I'll take a pic later if you like as I haven't explained it very well.
Don't take it apart now and try to put it back together next summer, you will forget how it all fits together.
When you have the spades out, clean them up with some sandpaper.
Just a few ideas
Richard
Hi, problem solved , i make the contacts for fuse a littlebit smaller (verry good tip). and every thing is working now.
The wires now are exact connected as in the wiringdiagram from the repairmanual.
But i want to make a relais for the lights, somebody advice how to do it? wich place the relais? the feed from where?
Thanks a lot for help!!!!!!!!!!!!
kind regards Hans
, i make the contacts for fuse a littlebit smaller (verry good tip). and every thing is working now.The wires now are exact connected as in the wiringdiagram from the repairmanual.
But i want to make a relais for the lights, somebody advice how to do it? wich place the relais? the feed from where?
Thanks a lot for help!!!!!!!!!!!!
kind regards Hans
![headlightrelay[1].jpg](/data/attachments/3/3559-ad2eae552d59eaf7cfe7c4305b8b3b22.jpg)