fusebox

Hi, i am thinking about it.
Bring 4 wires from high beam together with a new bigger wire to the relay(87) and the other 4 from switch(what now are connected to beam) together to the relay operation(86), 85 on earth and the+ 12V to 30.
And no relay on low beam, leave it so it is now.
What do you think about this???
 
If you use one relay for main beam, you are removing any benefits that having seperate fuses for the LH and RH lights gives you. Personally I'd relay the lot, main and dip, and I'd use a relay for every fuse. A bit OTT, but they're so cheap, and keeping them seperate makes any future diagnosis easier. Just bank the 4 relays up behind the headlights somewhere, 2 on each side.
 
Ok i understand i go for 4 relay, do you change the fuses into the fusebox? because they now only the sender must protected.
 
You can reduce the amperage of the fuses as once the relays are fitted that's it's only the relays that the fuses in the fuse box are protecting, and you'll have an inline fuse in the main supply to the headlamps which will be switched by the relays.
 
I've used 1 relay for both inner and outer main beam on each side. I've taken the control for the relay from one of the original main beam supplies (inner or outer will do) and fed both inner and outer beams from a single relay on each side. I've taken a fused supply straight off the back of the alternator battery feed to the relays and left the other main beam supply wires disconnected. This retains the LH/RH fuse protection as Harvey says and gives max current to the beams. I haven't fitted relays to the dip beams as I didn't think they needed them fitting.

Dave
 
Ok you have used 2 relay. Thats also an option.
I shall look what i do.
Where have you fitted the relay?
Thanks a lot for the answers
 
I intend to fit relays to my headlights as I've upgraded from sealed beam to modern headlamp bulbs and the higher wattage will now be putting extra load on the fusebox. I want to keep the ammeter working after I've done this. I understand to achieve this, I need to take the main feed for the relays from the ammeter shunt. Problem is, I don't know where this is actually located on the car. If I just take a feed from a permanent live somewhere (ie starter solenoid) then the lights will still work as planned, but the ammeter will never register their current load. Anyone fitted relays so that the ammeter still works?

Cheers,

Tom
 
There are two main wires which feed power to the headlights (on my car anyway), and both come from the shunt.

One goes to the headlight switch and the other to the headlamp flash switch.

I will be wiring relays in over the winter as my headlights don't seem to work correctly. Sometimes the power to the lights is just not enough to run the halogens, but will run the original sealed beam units.

I will use the live feed from the headlight switch (Big brown/white one). This can run all of the relays and headlights with ease.

I will of course be running in line fuses between the relays and headlamps

I was actually think of using 4 relays. One for each dip beam, one for the inner main beams and one for the outer.

Richard
 
I have mounted 2 relay on each side 1 for high beam in each line i have a fuse from 25 Amp, shall this be OK or is the fuse to big?
For low beam i shall look if i mounted relay it is only 1 light on each side don't know if it is necceseary?
 
Hans said:
I have mounted 2 relay on each side 1 for high beam in each line i have a fuse from 25 Amp, shall this be OK or is the fuse to big?
For low beam i shall look if i mounted relay it is only 1 light on each side don't know if it is necceseary?
Click to expand...

Hans

25A is a touch on the high side if you're splitting the lights between relays. The total current in all 4 lights when on main beam would be around 22.5A so 25 would be ok for that. If you're using a single relay for a single main beam eg inners then 7.5A will do the job. If you're using a single relay for both main beams on one side then 15A will cover both. Just make sure you use suitably sized cables to carry enough current so that in the event of a fault the cables don't go before the fuse blows.

FYI use the equation Amps = Watts/Volts to work it out, so if you have 75W inners that would be 75/12 or 6.25A. In reality it will be slightly less because the alternator keeps the battery voltage at around 13.5V so the current in the 75W inners will be 75/13.5 = 5.5A

Dave
 
Hans said:
I have mounted 2 relay on each side 1 for high beam in each line i have a fuse from 25 Amp, shall this be OK or is the fuse to big?
For low beam i shall look if i mounted relay it is only 1 light on each side don't know if it is necceseary?
Click to expand...

I'll be using these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12Volt-30Amp- ... 586wt_1185 with a smaller fuse, as I don't have to wire in separate fuses and relays, saving time and tidyness :)

I'll use a separate relay/fuse for both sides of the dip beam, as you will only lose one side if the fuse blows for any reason.

Richard
 
I have installed the same relay but without fuse, i instaqlled an inline fuse in wire nr 30. Now i am in Germany for work but when i am home i changed the fuse from 25 Amp to 15 Amp.
I don't know how it is at your car, but at my car only the fuse aria in the fusebox is a little bit melted at the highbeam fuses. So i have not mounted relay for low beam.What is your experience with melting of fusebox at lowbeam???????????
 
Dave3066 said:
Quattro

Just be careful where you mount that type of relay as water can easily get into the fuse holder. I've gone for the standard 30A relays with a splash proof in-line fuse holder

I'm sure there are a multitude of solutions out there 8)

Dave
Click to expand...

Good point, I'll be thinking about that when looking somewhere to mount them.

Richard
 
Hans said:
What is your experience with melting of fusebox at lowbeam???????????
Click to expand...

Hans

I've had no experience of the fusebox melting around the low beam fuse at all.

Dave
 
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