gearbox / clutch

J

Joop

Member
Hello

I have the following things done to my gearbox because it jumped out the
reverse gear:
Changed two conical bearings and one bearing from the mainshaft and
replace the reverse gear by a new one.
Also replaced sherical bush from the gearlever. I install a new clutch and
disc.
I filled up with 20W-50 Millers Mini oil. Every thing works great.
Problem is that as i checked the box before i fitted to the car i heard as
i turned bij hand a rattling noise by the reverse. For the first second
third and fourth gear i heard nothing. I left it like this.
Know if the car is running i still here by low revs in the first second and
in the free this rattling sound a little bit. This disapear when i push on
the clutch.
So does anybody knows wether this is a clutch issue or should i start again
changing the distance on the reverse gear so it does not make noise again?
The main clutch cilinder pedal (i have a LHD car because i am from Holland)
is the same distance to the ground as the brake pedal. I only noticed that
somebody put an elastique at the rear of the clutchpedal to achieve the
same high as the brake pedal.... Should i lower the high?

Greetings Joop
 
Joop said:
Hello

I have the following things done to my gearbox because it jumped out the
reverse gear:
Changed two conical bearings and one bearing from the mainshaft and
replace the reverse gear by a new one.
Also replaced sherical bush from the gearlever. I install a new clutch and
disc.
I filled up with 20W-50 Millers Mini oil. Every thing works great.
Problem is that as i checked the box before i fitted to the car i heard as
i turned bij hand a rattling noise by the reverse. For the first second
third and fourth gear i heard nothing. I left it like this.
Know if the car is running i still here by low revs in the first second and
in the free this rattling sound a little bit. This disapear when i push on
the clutch.
So does anybody knows wether this is a clutch issue or should i start again
changing the distance on the reverse gear so it does not make noise again?
The main clutch cilinder pedal (i have a LHD car because i am from Holland)
is the same distance to the ground as the brake pedal. I only noticed that
somebody put an elastique at the rear of the clutchpedal to achieve the
same high as the brake pedal.... Should i lower the high?

Greetings Joop
Click to expand...

Most likely a throw out bearing issue if alignment is ok; i'd recommend replacing them whenever you replace a clutch; they are relatively cheap and saves the hassle of removing everything when it eventually fails.
 
The problem seems solved. I put tifix around the clutchpedal so it will push more on the clutch bearing.
Hopely this can not harm anything...
 
No

I have the standard rover 4 gear. Now i do not know if the clutch bearing will suffer because it pushes more against the presure plate.
 
Did you adjust the clutch back to allow for the new plate? There does need to be a little freeplay in the lever so the throwout bearing doesn't contact the clutch cover fingers when the clutch is not depressed (in). there is a recent post on here which describes how to do it.

Also a lack of grease between the selector components will produce a myriad of rattles
 
I do not understand what you mean this because of my englisch i think. Do you mean that the bearing who pushes against the diafragma
plate of the clutch should have a little distance to that diafragma plate? I thought this bearing is always in contact with the diafragma and so turns with it?
 
Nee, Joop. Dit benodig `n klein bietjie speling. Verskoon my Afrikaans, Mijnheer. :D

With the pedal fully out, the bearing must have a small gap so it's NOT touching in normal running.
 
Do you mean this story from Harvey?:



Pull back the carpet and underlay and set the brake pedal height between the bottom of the pedal and the floor to 6 & 7/8"
Set the clutch pedal level with the brake. This is done on the threaded rod into the master cylinder.
Push the clutch operating arm rearward until the release bearing touches the pressure plate and make sure the arm is one spline forward from vertical. Remove the arm and move it on the splines if it's not, and take care not to drop the nut in the bellhousing.
Pull back the slave cylinder boot. Adjust the pushrod so that the piston is about 1" away from the circlip. (Pedal at rest)
Wind the stop bolt all the way in. (Thats the one in the footwell.)
Then get someone to slowly depress the pedal as you look at the piston in the slave. What you need to get is the piston just touching the circlip when the pedal is on the stop, and you achieve this by adjusting the pushrod each time just before the pedal is depressed.
Once you get to the point that putting your foot on the clutch down to the stop makes the piston touch the circlip in the slave, lock the nut on the pushrod.
Then wind the stop bolt up one turn, and lock it with the nut.
Depress the pedal again and make sure there is at least 25thou clearance between the piston and the circlip in the slave.
If not wind the stop bolt up some more a turn at a time.
Refit the carpet and IIRC that's it.
 
In the case of Rovers with their unusual arrangement of release bearing being lubricated by the gearbox fluid, having the release collar touching the diaphragm fingers would not be a problem. Noisy, but not a problem.

That said, of course there is meant to be clearance and it would not be right if the collar was always touching.

Yours
Vern
 
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