hammerite underseal

herts2000

herts2000

Active Member
has anyone used hammerite underbody seal with added waxoil? Does it stay wet or tacky does dirt stick to it? Thanks
Dave
 
I used it on the underside of my TR6 back in 07 when I gave it a repaint and refurb,and on the P6 whenever I did any welding,also gave the whole base unit a coating a year ago when I repainted it!
If you coat it onto a surface that is not clean,and I mean free of dirt and dust then it will just fall off!
I gave the undersides a good but gentle clean with a wire brush to remove dry dirt and any loose underseal,it also gave a slight key to the old surface for the new to adhere to.
If you warm the new underseal then while its liquid paint on a good coating with a decent selection of cheap throw away brushes,and an angle brush or 2 you can get into the knook and crannies.
I did try using a schutz gun but didnt get on with it.
It dries well giving a slight rubbery feel and not tacky!
 
thanks pilkie just what i wanted to hear. Im using it in rattle cans done it yesterday and still feels tacky how long does it take to harden? I have used shutz in the past with a compressor/gun but its messy and gets everywhere.
 
That's what we affectionately call "black cr*p", and was often applied to scabby sills back in the 80's (hence my preference for body colour P6 sills)
I haven't used the spray on version, usually just applied with a 3" brush from a big tin.

It does the job, but I wouldn't be using it on a restoration, more of a cover up material.
 
herts2000 said:
dissapeared how? :)
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Quite. I used it after welding repairs to my Land Rover's chassis and the P6's rear arches. Cleaned back to bare metal for welding, then painted with zinc rich primer and paint, applying the Hammerite underseal over the top. But a couple of years later there was plenty of surface rust and hardly any sign of the underseal. So either it needs redoing every year, or it's useless. I know there was nothing wrong with the way I applied it, so I won't be using it again.
I now buy 1litre Schutz type cans of Dinitrol and use that instead, with my compressor. A supplier often sells dented cans on eBay for a tenner each. Yes it's a bit messy to apply, but still very satisfying. And the finish gives me much more confidence than Mr Finnegan's stuff.
 
webmaster said:
That's what we affectionately call "black cr*p", and was often applied to scabby sills back in the 80's (hence my preference for body colour P6 sills)
I haven't used the spray on version, usually just applied with a 3" brush from a big tin.

It does the job, but I wouldn't be using it on a restoration, more of a cover up material.
Click to expand...

I remember years back my dad built a land rover hibrid and sprayed the chassis rails in it and it looked good and after off roading/ green laning the dirt jet washed off easy and still looked black and clean. I have used it in a couple of areas under my front arches and i think it looks good and i am a very fussy person with my cars. I just was worried about it staying tacky.
 
I'm afraid im on the anti team on this one... applied to beautifully prepared surfaces to have rust show through...
 
well i havent put it on any bare metal so i wont have any rust come through ill see how it looks a couple of months down the line if not any good i guess id better get the thinners out and start cleaning ;-) thanks guys
 
I never put it on bare metal! Thats asking for rust to come back quickly!
Once welding is done,then you must let the metal cool completely before putting on a good antirust treatment. etch primer,an epoxy primer and whatever other undercoats you use before giving a good coat of satin black.
Once that is all dry then coat well with underseal!
If a beautifully prepared surface gets rust showing through to the underseal it wasnt prepared well enough IMHO!!
 
prepared so there's no rust, then painted (no great paint job but covered!) then in 6 months it was crispy dry and bubbling rust coming through...

Maybe theres something wrong with how i applied it or something... i wouldnt use it again though.
 
did you brush it on? Maybe spray is better? Personaly i cant see how rust can start under waxoil (oil) ?
 
If you were to ask about the epoxy121 i've been painting on the repairs to PAE i'd say that stuff seems superb. It seems to be a very tough finish and lets nothing through so far.
 
Willy Eckerslyke said:
Could the fact that Pilkie's cars are garaged be a factor in his success with this stuff?
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Its his daily so im sure its been through everything inc snow/salt etc?
 
herts2000 said:
Willy Eckerslyke said:
Could the fact that Pilkie's cars are garaged be a factor in his success with this stuff?
Click to expand...
Its his daily so im sure its been through everything inc snow/salt etc?
Click to expand...

Admittedly the TR6 tries not to go out in the rain,and lives in the garage's loft,but the rover is my only daily car and as such gets all weathers thrown at it,and is in the works car park all day and either left under the carport or in the garage when dripping wet.
Also,I never use any form of powerwasher under my cars,only occasionaly a rinse from the hose under the arches on the rover,and ive never used a hose pipe on the TR6.
 
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