Head off 2200 sc

herbie

herbie

Member
Hello Guys,

Taking the head off my 2200sc P6 with no compression on 2 and 4 and a disengaged whining when turning over now.

Any tips?? Head easy enough to maouver? Hoist required?

Thanks in advance.

Richard.
 
Do a 'wet' compression test with a few squirts of oil down the bores on the weak cylinders prior to pulling the head. If the compression comes up you know that the rings are bad. Otherwise your valves are bad.

Take care to unbolt the head bolts in the correct order, with the cam in the correct position, otherwise you may break the cam. Take care not to lose bits of the chain tensioner into the sump. If the tensioner you have does not have the plug in the side to enable the tension on the chain to be relieved then replace it with the correct one. Rolon 460-560 or a tensioner ex MGB 62- 80 works.

You can carry the head around without too much trouble. If your back is bad then take off the bearing block assembly for the camshaft first then the head. Have a clear horizontal surface ready to go to put the head down. If you are a bachelor, or have a very understanding wife the the kitchen table works well! Looking after the Rover is much more important than having a table to eat off!

You do have a Haynes manual or Kenneth and Ball shop manual?

James.
 
Thanks James,

You are quite right who needs a wife or a kitchen table!!

Have workshop and haynes manual so all set!?

Richard.
 
One thing that i'm a bit concerned about is the lack of anything other than a spooling/ disengaged sound when turning over as if this is the starter gear would it be worth me pulling the engine to look at both at the same time??

Richard.
 
In that case I'd be taking a good look at the flexplate. See if the crankshaft pulley and engine fan turn when the starter is operated.
 
I'd remove the inspection plate on the bellhousing where the timing marks are and see if the ringgear moves when the starter is operated, if it doesn't the starter has failed, if it does then the flexplate has failed. That's either engine only out, gearbox and bellhousing out, or take the engine/box unit out as one lump and split them on the floor.
 
Engine disconnected propellor shaft disconnected all set to come out, hoist aquired, ring gear span so flex plate it is!

Does the gear box need to come out to change this??

Thanks in advance.

Richard.
 
Personally I just remove the gearbox from under the car, but you can remove just the engine, or the engine/gearbox unit and split them on the floor. Correct reassembly is vital to avoid repeat failures, and even though it is a common problem, all the time you're dismantling you should be looking for a reason for it to have failed.
 
Engine out, flex plate completely ruined.

Need to find a new one now so that i can start the process of finding out about the compression probs......
 

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Getting the car up off the ground enough to get the box out, in that size of garage would have been a problem, so engine out was probably your best bet. JRW do new flexplates at £75, and spigot bushes at £14 IIRC, both plus p&p &VAT, and you'll need both. Check the spigot on the front of the converter as they can get bent (or even ripped out completely). You might want to replace the front pump seal on the box while you're there, particularly if there are any signs of leakage. On reassembly you need to put the converter into the box and make sure it's fully located before fitting the engine to it.
 
Flex plate and spigot bushes arrived!!

Is it worth putting some oil/ releasing agent down 2 and 4 whilst this is all going on in the vain hope that the sudden compression problem could be stuck valves??
 
Do you have an engine stand? Since the engine is out I would take the opportunity pull the head and get a valve regrind done, and I would probably install new rings, big end and main bearings while I am at it.

If the motor was still in I would recommend penetrating oils and driving the car to see if the valves will free up. However if you put the motor back in, and the valves do not free up, then it will be harder to work on, than on an engine stand in a workshop. Also it is a good idea to renew the big ends and main bearings on the motors from time to time. You can do this in place, but will be much easier on an engine stand with the motor inverted.

James.
 
Sounds like a good idea James.

They seem to be relatively inexpensive, any idea of approx wait of engine for idea of which stand.

Thanks a million,

Richard.
 
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