Hello all from Scotland!

the original manual says Castrol GTX but no actual grade
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Tony, I think that Castrol GTX used to be 20W/50 years ago. According to the Castrol history page (see link), Castrol GTX was originally launched in 1968 and it was 20W/50, described as, "the first multi-grade motor oil".
http://www.bp.com/extendedsectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9039337&contentId=7036819

BTW, I was curious about your CCCP-1985 username (Soyuz Sovyetskikh Sotsialistichestikh Respublic?). Is it something to do with the Lada you mentioned?
 
I am Glenrothes Fife, so just down the road!

I will need to read all these articles on oils properly but in theory the Halfords 20w/50 classic oil i have should be fine, hopefully :)

Yes the user name is related to my Lada, sorry but i could not think of a Rover related one, so just used that for now, hope i have not offended anyone :(

I am going to that show funny enough, if it's the same one i have been attending the last couple years that is. Not in the new Rover though, it's not presentable nor reliable enough to venture far in yet!

Come to think of it, have a police issue handbook for driving skills for the Rover P6, have to dig that out :p
 
Halfords 20/50 classic oil doesn't Have enough zddp in it from previous investigations.
 
CCCP-1985 said:
Yes the user name is related to my Lada, sorry but i could not think of a Rover related one, so just used that for now, hope i have not offended anyone :(
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I should think so Too!! :oops:

LOL
 
Hi Tony and welcome to a very helpful place!!!

Don't be disheartened - if you had put the list of issue down I reckon we would all have identified it as obviously a P6!!!!

When I got mine home and looked in the right places it worked out that the floor & sides were not actually attached in many places!!

So now he's named Lemmy the Lemon and is a well loved member of my fleet 8)

J
 
Noticed that the roof channels are on there way out and just inside the rear doors, right in the corner under the seat bases there is a box section that are almost rotted through at the base?

Nothing else seems to be bad atleats, after spending the day crawling about under neath!

Me and my father have been thinking and wondering weather it would be worth selling her and waiting for a nicer example, than trying to source all the bits :?:

I still have the Lada and a Renault 25 to finish and sell, the proceeds from those would be added to buying the next P6.

I have less than a year to have this car perfect for my wedding and only Fri Sat mornings to get it done in :(

However whatever happens, i will be buying another P6 V8 Auto, as i have to say what a pleasure this one is to drive :D

Thanks folks!
 
Tony, that box section under the seats is a common rot spot.

The rule of thumb we are told with classic cars is always buy the best you can afford as this will work out cheaper than sorting out problems on a car that is in poorer condition. If you have the benefits of being able to do work yourself and the time to do it (and like working on cars), then fixing a car in poorer condtion starts to become a valid option - especially for cars like P6s were parts availabilty is good and prices are reasonable. If you have limited time and can afford it, "swapping" your P6 for a better example is maybe going to improve your chances of being at the church on time :D ?

Just one idea: you could always do a bit of work on the one you have to get some more experience, maybe sell it in the summer at slight profit when demand is higher and buy a better one in Autumn/Winter when you are more likely to get a better deal?
 
Been driving around in the Rover last couple days and i have to say, what a comfortable ride it is, plenty power and nice sound.

So were thinking run the car as you say till end of summer, doing the important stuff then either restore it or look for a nicer example!

Need to find a good welder though, my previous experience with one has not been good :(

Have posted in the wanted adds with hope of finding all the bits i need :)
 
Hi Tony,

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your purchase. Sounds like you have a few jobs to do, but don't we all!
I have a fair bit of welding to be done on mine too in the near future and am also worried about making sure I get a good welder.

Brian
 
I am quite happy with the gaslesss Clark welder I have - one or two others on here seem to be quite happy with the Clark stuff too. There are a couple of threads in the forum Tool Section that might help:- http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9062, http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9062

The only things I would say about the Clark 90EN I have is that it is worth buying a longer "earth" lead and better quality clamp to go with it. Also, the hand-held face mask you get with it is rubbish and you should consider an auto-darkening full face mask. Personally, I would stay away from SIP MIG welders - the wire feed mechanism was rubbish on the one I had. Also, I would be wary of MIGs that have "live" torches - I think these are a bit unsafe. Whatever you get, it's maybe a good idea to go for a MIG that allows you to set quite a low current (very useful if you don't want to blow holes in thin bodywork :) ).

Off the top of my head, a list of the essentials for welding:-
1. MIG welder (obviously).
2. Large reel of 0.6 or 0.8mm wire.
3. Mask and welders gauntlets.
4. 4.5" angle grinder with wire brush wheels (for prepping weld area) and 40/60 grit flap wheels (much better than grinding wheels for smoothing off weld).
5. Weld-thru primer (allows you to quickly paint parts before welding on).
6. Seam sealer.
7. Thin (0.8mm or 1mm) 4.5" cutting discs (for cutting out old metal and cutting new parts).
8. Some decent tin snips (or nibbler) and assortment of large files.
9. Hammers, vice and and formers for bending/shaping repairs.
10. Can of "Fry Light" or similar cooking oil spray (use it to coat tip and inside of shroud on your torch to stop splatter build up).
11. FIRE EXTINGUISHER - I think some users on this forum and elsewhere have had unpleasant experiences of welding related combustion incidents.
 
Thanks for that jvy. I've never done any welding so I'll probably be paying someone else to do the welding for me!
 
Hi Tony,

I've only just been signed on to the forum after some time out of the country. Hope everything is working out with the car. I'm based in Edinburgh, which isn't a million miles from Fife, so if I can be of any help, give us a shout.
 
bwares said:
Thanks for that jvy. I've never done any welding so I'll probably be paying someone else to do the welding for me!
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:D Ooops. I hadn't realised you wanted a welder with a welder. Rather than just a welder :oops: .
 
Hi guys! Another scot here! Stay near Glasgow. Sounds like a fair bit of work! Will be well worth it though.
I can't wait to get my p6 on the road. Have not removed outer sills so don't know what inners are like. I had a go at welding my fiat punto with an arc welder that I bought from lidl! It worked surprisingly well. I had done a bit of arc welding before that but it's deffo worth a shot. :D
 
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