Ignition Light staying on? Plus no power!

P

prospect8816

Member
Vehicle: 1974 P6B 3500 v8 auto.


I'm sure this topic has been aired before, but I would just mention, that out the other day I noticed the ignition light not going out even when the speed was about 40mph!
It flickers on tick over, but should go out once the revs increase, that is correct, is it not?

I have had a new set of bushes fitted and the pulley belt is at it's correct 1/2" depression. Any suggestions!

Also on the same outing, the engine just lost all power not only on hills but also on the straight. I must mention, the mechanical fuel pump is located on the front left hand side of the bulkhead . Also attached to it is a fuel regulator. This was all fitted prior to me buying the car. The only way to get going was by increasing the stops on the regulator. It started at 2 and by the time I got home it was on 5. Is this caused by dirt in the needle of the carbs? Or is there a far more serious problem lurking within the fuel system??

It is my intention to have the mechanical fuel pump replaced with an electricical fuel pump and have it put where it was supposed to be, which is (as you know) located underneath the luggage boot floor, as stated in the Owners Workshop Manual. I always thought it should be under the fuel tank??

As always, your replies are most rewarding.

Paul :?
 
Hello Paul,

Assuming that the auto electrician did indeed replace the brushes, then the culprit is likely to be voltage regulator. I take it that in addition to the ignition light being on, the ammeter is showing a discharge?

There is no need to run a fuel regulator with the AC mechanical fuel pump. I appreciate that you didn't fit it, so you can remove it without causing a problem.

Electric fuel pumps either push the fuel or pull the fuel, and each must be located in the correct position relative to the tank. For the former, fitment should be below and as close to the tank as is practicable.

Ron.
 
[quotethe mechanical fuel pump is located on the front left hand side of the bulkhead .][/quote] - I'm confused ,Electric pump surely

Sounds like the car is suffering from a lack of volts
 
Your car should be fitted with a Lucas 18ACR alternator, which has the regulator integral in the end cap of the alternator. These are easy to repair yourself and numerous people on Ebay sell the relevant parts. About the only thing that is likely to kill the machine altogether is if the commutator (the copper slip ring the brushes press on) is very badly worn. The symptoms you describe sound like a dead diode pack, but the parts are cheap so replace everything under the cover, including the brushes again,

The running problem, I think, requires that you fix the alternator before you tackle it seriously. You certainly don't have a mechanical fuel pump if it is mounted on the bulkhead, it must be electric. I presume it is the pressure regulator you have been adjusting up? Once full voltage is achieved in the car, you may well find that the fuel pump is restored to health and you need to turn the regulator back down. If this is not so, then come back and we will sort as an engine problem rather than an electrical problem.

Can anyone give Paul some soitable links for the alternator parts please?

Chris
 
This is to harveyp6.

Harvey, that link you gave me, i.e. "http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JCR-SUPPLIES-A ... 4340.12563" via chrisyork, does NOT exist, according to e-Bay!

I tried it twice, in case I spelt it wrong, but each time the same reply. "Sorry, this site does not exist".

But thanks for trying.

Paul

PS. I'm still trying to locate the parts for the alternator plus a set of contact points, as the ones in situ are NBG! Also the screw that opens the contacts in the distributor, the one with the spring, well the plastic part that looks like an inverted mushroom (for want of a better word), is also NBG! Does anybody know where I can obtain them??

I was thinking of maybe replacing like for like re alternator, as maybe it would be cheaper in the long run?? :?
 
Hi Paul, as Stina says click on Harveys link it is their, Harvey directed me their for the same bits, brushes and regulator, the guys their were very helpful, good prices and very quick posting the items out. To fit the brushes, or check them in your case and change the regulator is a straight forward job which can be done by yourself. Their are posts on the forum about how
 
To "Stina & Happy days",

I don't know what link or words your using, but i've just this minute tried and i've got the same answer = "Sorry, this shop does not exist"!!

Maybe the "site" is only open during working hours??


Paul
 
I've just tried again and it works fine for me. :?

It's a link to their ebay shop so works at any time.

Don't copy it, just click on the link.
 
Just to let you all know, I have purchased a new 18 ACR Alternator plus a set of Contact Points/Condensor, plus the small plastic part (see below), all c/o Geoff at Wins ltd.

I decided to purchase new, as I did try various companies recommended by yourselves plus distributordoctor.com. But for various reasons, either too dear or not in stock or as in the case of distributordoctor.com, "sorry, we don't have these", in reply to my query re "the plastic part that fits into the spring on the auto advance spring set"!

I have also booked the car in to my mechanic for next Monday 12/09/2011, to have the electric fuel pump removed from the front bulkhead and re-sited underneath the luggage boot floor, where it should have been.

So my mechanic is going to be busy next week doing that, plus replacing the alternator like for like, as well as replacing the contact points & condensor plus the "other bit"........! Which also means my childrens & grand-childrens inheritence, is going to be depleted somewhat...............!! :wink:

I will let you know when it is all done. In the meantime, many thanks for all your assistance.

Paul
 
Reply to all who aided me.

The recon/new alternator has now been fitted and is now giving out a reading of 14 plus volts. Also the contact points and the "plastic bit" that I bought from Wins, were the wrong type. Even though I did stress to Geoff that they must be for the v8 engine! So the ones in situ which was the original Lucas type, were refaced. The base plate was loose (all three screws were loose), so all re-tightened. Maybe caused by the Tune-up chap I had to check out the distributor!

The electric fuel pump that was fixed to the left engine bulkhead has now been repositioned under the car close to the fuel tank, and the regulator is repositioned accordingly! I have left the setting at 4. Is there any need to change the setting to a lower one??

This car is now running as sweet as a nut, and so it should be after all the work/time/money spent on it/her!

I sincerely hope that this will now be the last major work that I shall have to have done, as I bought the car to use not to be stuck in a workshop most of the time!!

Maybe now I can concentrate on getting the interior/seats/carpet & rear parcel shelf looking like new again!

Many thanks to all for your suggestions etc.

Paul :D
 
Good news, Paul!

This sort of work I describe loosely as "recommissioning". It's surprising how much old cars hate not being used and the (relatively) minor faults that generates to spoil the party for a new owner.

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
Good news, Paul!

It's surprising how much old cars hate not being used and the (relatively) minor faults that generates to spoil the party for a new owner.

Chris
Click to expand...

That's so right! Mine was driven some 230 miles in the last year, it's really starting to show now. Nothing catatstrophic (apart from a siezed master cylinder) but still annoying.
 
To chrisyork,

Many thanks for your comments Chris, I thought the term "recommisioning" excellent and very appropriate.

I have left the fuel regulator set at 4, should I need to lower that back to say 2??

Regards

Paul
 
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