Ignition switch - doesn't match wiring diagram?

1396midget

Well-Known Member
Hi all!

Got round to fixing my ignition switch, thought it had bad internal contacts as I had to hold the key in with my thumb to get it to run, so bought another one, which came without the 2 central spade connectors, but the 'ring' of spades is the same. After working out what everything seems to do, I wired the new one in without the two central connections (one is a 12V feed, which switches the other 'on' while running but 'off' all the other times).

everything works but it doesn't charge and the IGN light is on. So, what do those 2 centre ones do? Haynes wiring diagram doesn't have nearly enough wires on it's picture of the switch, which is irritating. Not as irritating as the original switch deciding that now it seems to be fine and has no issues at all, apart from being able to take the key out in all positions.

any ideas on this slightly odd experience? I've not come across an ignition switch with so many connections on it before.

any help greatly appreciated! :)

Cheers

Rob
 
Hi Rob,

Did you notice if the complete switch was loose where it was attached to the rear of the barrel upon removal? That would explain why you needed to hold the key in with you thumb in order to get it to run.

According to the parts book, there are two different ignition switches.

Ron.
 
whole switch was wobbly, So I took it apart and noticed, after collecting the springs and little copper cylinders form all the corners of the room , that the rotational part of the switch was very worn and looked a bit burnt out. I cleaned it up and put it back together, same result as before (having to hold it). I put a very thin spacer in the back of the switch (guiness can shim) to tighten it up to stop the wobbling,( without managing to short anyhitng out) but that's made it not work at all now. booo :(

My next trick will be to wire the two seperate lives into one live, and take the switched live off the right connector on the new switch. Presumably this is something to do with the charging system. The Rover 200 ignition switch that I wired into the K-midget had 3 seperate lives, which I bundled together into one feed from the midget loom, that's still working after a year or so..

what are the different parts book switches like? I've got the 'proper' owners maintenance workshop manual coming soon, so that might help too.

Thanks for your help!
 
The parts book doesn't discriminate between the two Rob, rather it just lists two distinct part numbers. The authentic workshop manual is just the ticket, so you should find that very helpful.

Hmmm, does sound like it was worn. Yes those springs and cylinders....Sorry I can't help with a Rover 200 ignition, apart from never having seen one, the cars didn't come here either.

Ron.
 
Cheers Ron, I've fixed it, wired together the lives and the switched accessory positions and all is working as it should!

thanks for the help!
 
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