Ignition switch replacement

[Richard B]

Hi All,

Got a 1971 series 2 P6B auto.

Got an intermittent fault with the ignition switch.... failure to start and v occasionally firing the starter motor with the key in position 2. Have checked inhibitor switch, starter relay and solenoid and they all work fine.... so, fairly confident the problem is the ignition switch.

Have looked in the workshop manual it seems you have to remove the steering column to access the steering lock assembly before you can get to the switch at the back of the ignition lock barrel. Is this correct?

Does the steering lock assembly need to be removed from the steering column to access the ignition switch? If so, there is one of those 'sheer off' bolts which holds the lock assembly around the steering column... does this have to be undone? If so, any tips? Can you cut a slit in the top with a dremel cutting blade and get a screwdriver to it?

Hints and tips from anyone who has tackled this job gratefully received!

Thanks

Richard

 

[harveyp6]

ISTR The Rovering Member had the same problem and managed to replace the switch without removing the lock or column.

 

[Richard B]

ISTR The Rovering Member had the same problem and managed to replace the switch without removing the lock or column.

Thanks Harvey... I've reached out to The Rovering Member

 

[The Rovering Member]

I've been reached:

S2 Ignition Switch.

Two small & possibly hard to remove screws hold the switch unit onto the lock mechanism which itself, doesn't need to be removed.

 

[mikecoombs]

Originally the S2 ignition switch is covered in black goo which needs to be removed to find and access the nuts etc. (which are covered by it).

Also while the electrical switch block is a seperate part from the key/lock part, it's full of springs so if it comes apart during the removal process you'll be chasing all sorts of little brassy bits all over the footwell and underdash so be nice to it!

 

[Richard B]

Originally the S2 ignition switch is covered in black goo which needs to be removed to find and access the nuts etc. (which are covered by it).

Also while the electrical switch block is a seperate part from the key/lock part, it's full of springs so if it comes apart during the removal process you'll be chasing all sorts of little brassy bits all over the footwell and underdash so be nice to it!

Thanks Mike... really helpful. Haven't actually got sight of it yet so don't know whether it's covered in goo!

 

[roverp480]

Here is the position of the two screws if its of any use :-

 

[Scotty]

Hi Richard. I recently replaced my ignition switch and finished up removing the steering column, it was less daunting than I thought and for me, made the switch replacement easier. I was struggling to get enough access otherwise. You don’t have to remove the shear bolts. I also managed to leave the steering wheel in situ, just have to be a bit careful in terms of balancing everything! Hope that helps, leave plenty time and rehearse plenty swearwords.

 

[Richard B]

Here is the position of the two screws if its of any use :-View attachment 23039

Thanks, don't think I'd have found th3m in the depths of the dash!

 

[Richard B]

Hi Richard. I recently replaced my ignition switch and finished up removing the steering column, it was less daunting than I thought and for me, made the switch replacement easier. I was struggling to get enough access otherwise. You don’t have to remove the shear bolts. I also managed to leave the steering wheel in situ, just have to be a bit careful in terms of balancing everything! Hope that helps, leave plenty time and rehearse plenty swearwords.

Hi Scotty, thanks for the advice.... will have look and have a go!

 

[Rui Barbosa]

Estou com esse problema,não encontro informações como substituir,se se puderem ajudar, agradeço muito obrigado módulo com 7 wires.

 

[roverp480]

From Above I have this problem, I can't find information how to replace, if you can help, thank you very much module with 7 wires.

 

[GRTV8]

Posted Recently on this blog
I Ive recently removed , repaired and replaced my ignition module on my P6b.
I experienced the absolute terror of my P6 cutting out on the motorway while in the inside lane. Managed to get her restarted as I eased her onto the shoulder.
She did it again a few days later on a quiet street.
I thought this is not going to happen a third time. Too scary.
Im a large framed ex farmer with big hands, so lying on my back under the steering column is not the ideal ,but necessary. Not tempted to pull the back off the ign. module insitu. as there is a tiny spring and ball bearings that will be set free in the dark.
I removed the two shear bolts with a reverse drill-bit after giving it the WD40 treatment overnight. An easy operation -just awkward on my back.
I had to remove the steering wheel, shin bin of course and all the bolts that let the steering arm lower without actually removing the arm.
The ignition wires unclipped from the main loom easily.
Removed the freed ignition module from the steering arm and started the module clean up.
Taking pics on each disassembly process. Glad I did.
50 Years of gunk on all the contacts were cleaned off with fine emery paper and special "WD40 electrical stuff". I didnt want any flames when everything went back together.
The module got some electrical grease, for the next 50yrs of use.
I reassembled using the pics I took- glad I did, as I did put the contact "banjo" back upside down. Brain fart as I thought I had this one in the bag- just wouldnt key start on replacing the wires into the loom.
Fixed my oversight and my ignition hasnt let me down since.
A new module is $130 plus huge freight to NZ, viz a week of faffing about in tight spaces and experiencing the joy of DYI.

 

[Rui Barbosa]

Thanks