ignition trouble

rockdemon said:
I think this just underpins the fact that the wiring, especially for the ignition, varied from car to car during the P6's production!
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Very true - I've kept quiet on this because PAE (early v8) is very different... She has a separate visible ballast resistor for a start...
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Ah, any chance of a picture of that? :)
 
Blimey, how much current do you reckon the module is drawing? I would have thought it was negligable, if not non existant, surely not enough to cause voltage drop. I'll admit,I'm not an expert on electronics, so I don't really know much about the operation of Hall triggers. I spend my days playing with the big stuff, up to 132kv!
Roly.
 
Roly said:
Blimey, how much current do you reckon the module is drawing? I would have thought it was negligable, if not non existant, surely not enough to cause voltage drop. I'll admit,I'm not an expert on electronics, so I don't really know much about the operation of Hall triggers. I spend my days playing with the big stuff, up to 132kv!
Roly.
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I'm no expert on them either, but not all electronic modules are the same. It may be negligible in one, not in another!

But if it works in your case, then that's wonderful. :D

I do know for high revving engines (ok the rover V8 is not a very high revver), they do recommend removing the ballast.

BTW, any chance of lending me the 132KV equipment? Some troublemakers here (in my neighbourhood) need to be 're-programmed' ;)
 
If your troublemakers are like the ones we get round here, it won't bother them. We had a spate a year or 2 ago where they were chopping down live 415v overhead lines & rolling it up for scrap! Unbelievable. They also have a habit of attacking 11kv switchgear from time to time, although that tends to hurt them a bit! They tend to stay away from 33 & 132kv though. Must be because the gear makes too much noise. Puts the fear of christ up me sometimes & I've been doing it for 23 years!
 
Roly said:
If your troublemakers are like the ones we get round here, it won't bother them. We had a spate a year or 2 ago where they were chopping down live 415v overhead lines & rolling it up for scrap! Unbelievable. They also have a habit of attacking 11kv switchgear from time to time, although that tends to hurt them a bit! They tend to stay away from 33 & 132kv though. Must be because the gear makes too much noise. Puts the fear of christ up me sometimes & I've been doing it for 23 years!
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Cor blimey, guv'nor! They sound worse than those we have here! :-S

Never ceases to amaze me how some thieves aren't fazed by the risk of death to make a quick unhonest buck! :-S
 
Hi all
Just to fill you in , keep you up to speed , touch base , ect . All very racy phrases hay ? I'm only a farm laborer ! We got her running today with new coil supplied from washer bottle feed . Full 12v . When i put the volt meter on the exposed original ballasted feed with motor running it showed full 12v . What is going on , what am i missing or overlooking , why cant i just use this wire ? Any how it,s missing like a pig , ht leads not the best looking things , and top end issue . Had rocker covers off and no oil supply , one rocker been replaced recently ( the one rattling ) lifted rocker gear that bank (left from front of car )and cleaned , managed to get some oil up top , but nowhere near opp bank , (took both off) . He,s not into computers but thanks pa for giving me a day . Any info much appreciated .
Cheers stina
 
stina said:
Hi all
Just to fill you in , keep you up to speed , touch base , ect . All very racy phrases hay ? I'm only a farm laborer ! We got her running today with new coil supplied from washer bottle feed . Full 12v . When i put the volt meter on the exposed original ballasted feed with motor running it showed full 12v . What is going on , what am i missing or overlooking , why cant i just use this wire ? Any how it,s missing like a pig , ht leads not the best looking things , and top end issue . Had rocker covers off and no oil supply , one rocker been replaced recently ( the one rattling ) lifted rocker gear that bank (left from front of car )and cleaned , managed to get some oil up top , but nowhere near opp bank , (took both off) . He,s not into computers but thanks pa for giving me a day . Any info much appreciated .
Cheers stina
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You would see 12v or so, because there's no current flowing through it (well, the voltmeter does draw a small amount of current, but it's negligible). No current flow (or negligible) means no (or negligible) volt drop.
 
Hi stina,
John here I am so sorry to read all the problems that you have had, If I can make a suggestion and see how it goes, buy a new set of points put back the original ballast coil and run the car until you are confident.The reason I am saying this that there was never ever an issue running on the original system the car never ever miss fired always started 1st time and run smooth.The only reason it was changed was at that time I was thinking about the future I wished I had never bothered. Alternatly take the car to a auto electrician and get them to change the ignition properely

John
 
Hi Stina

Sorry to hear you're having problems with your car. Hope you get it sorted soon.

FWIW I would like to echo vaultsman and Roly's comments about leaving the coil supply alone. I have been running a Pertronix ignitor on my car for over a year now with no problems at all. I have a Flamethrower coil that uses the original ballasted coil supply and I have taken the 12V feed for the ignitor module (not the supply for the coil) from the washer bottle. I know it can be frustrating fault-finding if you have suspect components and we rely on new components being serviceable until proven otherwise. I had a faulty ignitor module first time round and this caused me huge headaches in getting things to work. I spoke to the guys at Pertronix and they talked me through a bench test to check out the module out of the car. Having proven the module faulty I was given a replacement which worked no problems and has been doing so since. I too got confused by the whole "ballasted/not ballasted, which wiring configuration does my car have?" scenario so decided to leave the wiring to the coil alone and find a new 12V supply for the Ignitor module.

Dave
 
Dave3066 said:
Hi Stina

Sorry to hear you're having problems with your car. Hope you get it sorted soon.

FWIW I would like to echo vaultsman and Roly's comments about leaving the coil supply alone. I have been running a Pertronix ignitor on my car for over a year now with no problems at all. I have a Flamethrower coil that uses the original ballasted coil supply and I have taken the 12V feed for the ignitor module (not the supply for the coil) from the washer bottle. I know it can be frustrating fault-finding if you have suspect components and we rely on new components being serviceable until proven otherwise. I had a faulty ignitor module first time round and this caused me huge headaches in getting things to work. I spoke to the guys at Pertronix and they talked me through a bench test to check out the module out of the car. Having proven the module faulty I was given a replacement which worked no problems and has been doing so since. I too got confused by the whole "ballasted/not ballasted, which wiring configuration does my car have?" scenario so decided to leave the wiring to the coil alone and find a new 12V supply for the Ignitor module.

Dave
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Just for clarity (mine most of all, but I have to try and look slick! :p) Your coil is still fed via the ballast, but the electronic module itself is fed from unballasted 12v?

If it works, it works!
 
Hi Dave .
I have two issues here (tapping top end , don,t know if you,ve been reading about this ? ) Back to ignition troubles . the coil is non ballast standard 12v, fed when i bought the car from the ballast wire . The ignition module is fed from the positive side of coil and the black wire from module goes to the coil negetive . This is how it was set up when i bought the car . The problem was traced to a faulty coil and a new one supplied . All i have done different is to wire the coil feed from the washer 12v live as a tempory solution as i wondered if the ballast feed resulted in the coil failure. It doesn't start well and misses . As i have said though the ht leads are suspect, and i managed to break one the other day and had to cobble an old one onto car . I will order new set tomorrow . I'd like to hear it run on all 8 before i strip the top end down .
stina
 
As i have said though the ht leads are suspect
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- the v8 is extremely sensitive to ht leads... magnecore leads seem to be the ones most people go for - expensive but they work!

Rich.
 
Wow their expensive . Don't doubt they're very good, but as i don't know what the top end issue is going to cost i just want a set that will work for now . And to hopefully stop the miss firing . Any alternatives ?
stina
 
I think getting the thickest set you can for as little as you can is probably the next option...

If you look on ebay there are lots of sellers...

Rich.
 
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