Inlet manifold removal - 2000TC

BPK973H

New Member
Hi (again) :oops:

Decided to tackle blowing exhaust on my 1970 2000TC - of course it seems to be blowing in the most awkward place - either a manifold fault or blown manifold gasket right up under the heatshield at the manifold/head junction.

Obvious solution seemes to be remove carbs and inlet manifold to get access.

Carb linkages, choke cables, petrol/breather pipes etc all disconnected, 6 inlet manifold nuts removed - the inlet manifold is well and truly STUCK. Gentle tapping with a rubber mallet, gradually increased to rather more severe blows with a small lump hammer and a block of wood all to no avail.
It is currently sitting with WD40 sprayed liberally around the accessible edges and on the studs in the hope it gradually penetrates the joint.

Problem is gaining access to "persuade" it to move in the right direction.

Anyone had this problem before and succesfully (ie without damage) removed it ?

Many thanks,

Robin
 
Have you tried wobbling the manifold up and down. This should break the seal. Otherwise try a different penetrating oil. I would use PB blaster if you can get it, or Liquid Wrench.

If that does not work, you could get the tool for pressure testing the cooling system, and try some pressure on the cooling system, then wobble up and down on the manifold/ carbs. Coolant does pass through the manifolds.

As a last resort you may need to use heat. However this is dangerous as you have float chambers full of petrol. You could take off the tops of the float chambers, take out the floats and syringe out the fuel, then allow to dry overnight. Then carefully apply heat around the studs on the inlet manifold, and quench with PB blaster, and hopefull break the seal. Have a fire extiguisher handy if you have to try this. You might want to take off the fuel line from the fuel pump, and drain the sediment bowl as well.

Good luck and don't burn the garage down.

James.
 
I wouldn't use anything drastic.
If you grab the manifold by the balance pipe and try to wobble it up, down, left and right, eventually it will break free.

Demetris
 
.......... and being a TC, your problem is almost certainly a cracked manifold. They're difficult to get hold of, so you might need to break out the welder!

Bri.
 
Thanks folks,

Believe me no way will it move with "wobbling" - lets hope soaking with penetrating oil makes a difference tomorrow!

Funnily enough this was in the boot of the car when I bought her ( nearly a year ago ) although at that time there was no indication of anything blowing...

P1020606.jpg



It's still got a label on it!

However, not being a great believer in coincidences............... it makes me think this may be a problem that someone intended to fix but then couldn't be bothered to :?

Whats the betting I find someone has made a "temporary repair" (bodge) with gungum or similar when I get down there ? :roll:

I'll let you know....................if I ever get the inlet manifold off!

Robin
 
It will eventually come off. The gasket sort of bonds it to the cylinderhead. In addition to the studs there is a couple of locating dowels.

Have you got the carbs off? You can remove the 2 bolts on each, fiddly but not impossible.

With the carbs off stick the handles of 2 decent size hammers in to the manifold and lever it up and down.

You will get there in the end.

Colin
 
Hey hey they're off! :LOL:

Another liberal dose of WD40 this morning before I went to work, came home and straight under the bonnet to find I could pull them off by hand whereas yesterday I was trying to lift the front end of the car when I pulled and lifted them!!

Nothing obviously wrong with the exhaust manifold at first looking, but then I can't see underneath at the moment. I will take it off tomorrow and have a good look all around - where is it they are prone to cracking :?: I don't want to miss a crack put it back and start all over again!!!!

Robin
 
Usually roughly where the first junctions meet but not always on a weld :)
You should be able to see signs of blowing around a crack and they often open up when under pressure and warm. If you're lucky it may just be the copper sealing rings at the head or badly fitted :wink:
 
If it is cracked see here:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8321&hilit=+cracked

& here:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7085&hilit=+cracked

The cause will be strain on the manifold from the exhaust system being out of line. Careful attention to fitting the various sections & ensuring that the two gearbox supports are in good order should cure the problem. Touch wood, I've had no problems since I paid a bit more attention to the fitting of the system. If you don't do this when you fit your new manifold, that will very likely crack too.
 
Thanks for that - yes it is cracked ! :shock:

Exactly as predicted, where cylinder no 3 exit pipe enters the Y piece

P1020613.jpg


And also here before the join to the centre section, which is probably more due to rusting away as well

P1020611.jpg


I'll have a good read of the articles thanks, and attempt to relieve any stresses on the manifold. The new manifold is staying in the garage - I will keep it that way for as long as I can as I intend to keep the car for as long as I can also!!
Current manifold is going to meet the mig treatment before replacement.

Thanks again for the information,

Robin
 
Thanks for all the advice everyone,

Manifold welded, sprayed with sperex, baked and wrapped :

P1020664.jpg



Now refitted (carefully!) and I can't believe how quiet she is now :D

Many thanks again

Robin
 
BPK973H said:
Thanks for all the advice everyone,

Manifold welded, sprayed with sperex, baked and wrapped :

Now refitted (carefully!) and I can't believe how quiet she is now :D

Many thanks again

Robin

Are you sure you wanted to wrap it?

They do tend to rust very quickly when wrapped up like that.

Richard
 
Back
Top