just gearbox or engine out

C

cooper1203

Member
hi all, I am going to have to pull the box on my 3500s I have been putting it off ever since I have had the car but the time has come I cant put it off any more. Is it easier to pull the engine and gearbox complete or can the box be taken out on its own and back in without 2 weeks of swearing because the thing just wont line up.

I have read the workshop manual on gearbox removal and it says to remove the bonnet?? is this necessary can u really get that much angle on the engine with out damaging mounts and rad?????

thanks for any advice
Coop
 
No need to remove the engine or the bonnet, just don't drop the engine too far back otherwise the rocker cover will hit the petrol reserve tap and break it. Make sure the widest gap on the fan blades is at the bottom and it won't hit the rad.
 
Before you remove the gearbox rear mounting support the engine under the rear of the sump with a jack, and then lower the jack slowly once the mounting is unbolted. Keep watching the rad and reserve tap for clearance. Make sure you disconnect the throttle horizontal link before dropping the engine back.
 
cooper1203 said:
do I have to take the sump of to do the rear seal????
Click to expand...

Yes, but if it's a rope seal you don't need to remove the gearbox to do it. If it's a lipseal then remove the sump before dropping the box, and either make a block of wood to fit on both sides of the block and support under that, or buy one of these:

583_hr.jpg
 
I have done the box a few times without pulling the engine and box. The only tip I'd give you is to have a decent jack with a large baseplate to support and balance the jack or a stoutly built mate.
If using the stout mate method, jack the car a little higher to allow sufficient room for him to get leverage and not to end up with the jack lying on his chest and him unable to wiggle out from under it because the car is too low..... :mrgreen: :roll:
That cost me a lot of beers to remedy the poor Lad's sense of humour... :D
 
Hi all time for an update and a few more questions (sorry).

I have got to the point where I have got the engine and box leaning back and Saturdays job if not tomorrows is to remove the gear selector remote and give it an inspection.

One thing I have noticed is the metal acorn that was there 18 months ago with a slight witness mark on it has eroded to nothing. so I definitely need a new one of them. the question is what is the bit of the gear selector shaft the acorn sits in made of and what size should it be so I can do some serious thinking as to replace that as well.

if I end up replacing the selector shaft which ones do people recommend metal acorn with a bush or nylon acorn with no bush?? Can the bush be replaced from above or does the prop shaft have to come back off to get to it.
many thanks
coop
 
Hi all I am baffled now. Im struggling like mad to get to the nuts on the remote housing. I am trying to get them through the inspection covers on the side of the tunnel from inside the car as there isn't enough space to get them from outside.

Im beginning to wonder if I have the engine back far enough because I am no where near the rad or the petrol reserve tap however the drivers side rocker cover is 1/2 a cig paper away from the brake line. Also if I was trying to get the engine out at the angle it is at there is no way it would clear the slam panel.

what am I doing wrong or is the brake line been run in the wrong place

many thanks
coop
 
It's difficult to know whether you've tilted the engine back far enough, although it sounds as though you haven't. To remove the remote from the gearbox you need to remove the gearlever from the remote, and then reach forward over the remote from the back to undo the 4 nuts retaining it, and providing you have enough room to get your arm up there to do that it doesn't need to come back any further.
 
hi Harvey, thanks for the reply. That's what I was doing wrong then I was trying to get to them from the side through the access holes in the tunnel. I also hadn't slackened off the front engine mounts enough because when I did I was able to get to the last stud through the whole in the drivers side. didn't think of going in from the back over the top.... DUH!!!!!!!!!!!!

oh well its off now I will know when it comes to re-fitting it.

Incidentally the finger on the remote shaft is very worn no plastic cap and flats worn into the metal. Would it of worn the grove it sits in too much to be of service?? not sure what anything is made of really. I assume that to get to the rest its a box out job? Just don't want to go to all the effort and cost so far and not fix the problem properly.

many thanks
Coop
 
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