Keinzle clock

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DaveHerns

New Member
Has anyone done an article on how to overhaul these? I'm tempted to unscrew the nuts on the back to get at the contacts but I fear all the gearwheels and springs will go "boing"
 
I remember that there was an article that appeared in "P6 News" on overhauling the clock back in the late 1980s or early 90s. I kept the magazine, so provided that I can find it, I'll post the article.

Ron.
 
Took mine to bits, there are little tabs to take the face off. I then looked at the insidey parts and went erhmahgerd that's complex and left it alone...
 
I've taken it out ,taken the electrical bit off and nothing went " boing..." However I can't see the bit that needs soldering and there's a spindle with a spring round it that will need preloading and fitting into something
 
I managed to repair mine. A common problem with these clocks is a dry joint on the solenoid connections, or sometimes a broken wire on the solenoid windings, where its connected to the printed cct board. The operation of the clock is quite simple, the clock has a spring which takes a short time to wind down, as it does so, 2 contacts close, which energise the solenoid, which winds the spring, in turn opening the contacts, and the whole cycle starts again. Don't be tempted to use oily stuff on the mechanism, it'll suddenly develop the urge to gain like its on wheels! I ran mine for a week on a PP9 battery, it allows you to fine tune it too. I didn't find the need to remove the hands, or dismantle it any more than taking the back off.. using a PP9 battery with 2 wires will help you to fault find. If you can get the solenoid to fire, you'll see that the clock will run for about a minute.
 
I may have fixed mine .Currently connected to a 12v starter pack to see if it runs/keeps time
I'll let you know what I did if it works
 
Seems to be working and keeping good time while on bench test
The points on mine were burnt and I refaced them with 600 grade wet and dry lubricated with spit
I also tweaked the points with pliers so they contacted on a less burnt area
I then resoldered this "fusible" link in the wiring
Do not spray the clock with WD40 , this stops the points making contact ,Brake cleaner is OK in this area
 
It stopped working unless I gave it a tap. I was stripping it to measure up for a quartz movement when I think I found the answer
I can report the hands pull off but are a very tight fit .Use side cutters between the hands to start them moving
The face just unscrews

The clock movement is rubber mounted in the case .There are 3 spire clips holding it in .One has an extra component to link the works to the case .This was loose and fell off resulting in the clock having no electrical contact with the metal case .I've soldered a wire between the clock mechanism and the case and now it seems fine

Photos taken but I don't know how to add them to this message
 
You may not need to pull the hands off .See if it works with 12v + on the spade terminal and the negative on one of the studs that holds the back on .If so , just solder on a wire to link the mechanism to the mounting frame
 
Just tried the above, but with no success. What/where is the fusible link. The clock works fine when I open the points but stops when the points touch. The small copper strip is solid so I'm assuming there is something wrong with the solenoid. Any more ideas
 
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