Leaking core plug

Having a squizz, Loctite actually makes a product specifically for engine core plugs called 540.....http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/540-EN.PDF

Looking at the specs, 540 is something like 2 1/2 times as strong as 641. Some of the Loctites are extraordinarily strong, once used it is pretty well there for keeps..they are amazing products.

Ron.
 
Extract from the 540 TDS:

"For Disassembly
1. Where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length or large diameters ( over 25.4 mm), apply localized heat to approximately 250 °C.
Disassemble while hot."

Although the core plugs are obviously greater than the 25.4mm diameter specified, it does seem to suggest that hand tools could be used, and as you say the 641 is not as strong as the 540 - that might turn out to be a lucky break. I continue to hope this is not a complete disaster. Yet.

Looking on the bright side, they are unlikely to drop out while driving along.

If I ever manage to get to the "driving along" stage again.
 
Well here we are at last. Full of coolant. No leaks from core plugs. A couple of leaks from loose jubilee clips - now sorted. It was nerve wracking putting the coolant in again (for the umpteenth time) and the temptation to scurry away without actually looking underneath was very strong. Curiosity prevailed in the end. Temp gauge shows us running warmish - still in the green, but over to the right. Will check fan belt tomorrow.

Now I know it's not going to pour all over the drive any more I'll refill with new coolant mixture, as what's in there currently has been in and out of the car at least 5 times, and I'm not sure of the concentration any more.

Also, having seen the inside of the block through the core plug holes, it feels like a jolly good flush might be in order. Does anyone know whether products like Bars Flush are ok or is it safer to just use water?

Gave the starter motor a scrub up and lick of paint while it was off (had plenty of time).

Although I have removed and replaced the starter several times with the exhaust in situ, I have to say it is ten times easier with the exhaust lowered, and if I do have to do it again in the near future (please God - no) I think I might drop the exhaust anyway.

The question of whether core plugs fitted using Loctite 641 can be removed without heating the block to 250 degrees first, will have to wait to be answered a long, long, long way in the future. I hope.

Many thanks to all for the support and advice.

Next job - change the oil!

Steve
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0930.jpg
    IMG_0930.jpg
    224.8 KB · Views: 320
dmblbit said:
The question of whether core plugs fitted using Loctite 641 can be removed without heating the block to 250 degrees first, will have to wait to be answered a long, long, long way in the future. I hope.
Click to expand...

There are high temp anaerobics around, but 641 is not one of them.

At 150C there will be no strength left at all, it will fall out. If it needs to be removed, give it a sharp tap first, and if that doesn't loosen it, heat it with a hot air gun to around 100C, that will soften it up enough.

Richard
 
As for flushing the block, I can't see how any method apart from removing the sideplates & poking/hosing the crud out would work. I've done two of them & it builds up around the two rear cylinders, a fairly solid, rusty pile of rubbish which no amount of liquid poured into the radiator would touch, IMHO. I did the first in situ with the head off & the second with the engine out. Not convenient, but the only way to do the job properly I think.
 
Good result Steve... :)

Regarding the block flushing, without installing a coolant filter, (which would be without doubt the best method of preventing a build up of sediment) changing the coolant at the recommended times and not letting it lapse would be the next best method to follow. Not mixing the coolant with tap water when ever possible would also be advantageous.

Ron.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top