Lower Timing Chain Tensioner

[esray]

Dear Forum.

My lower timing chain tensioner is the newer type (as I understand it) without the allen key backing-off system. Can I 'lever' it away from the timing chain (through the aperture in the front of the timing chest) to 'disarm' it, or must I remove my sump to do so by completely removing the tensioner, please?

I appear to have put my intermediate chainwheel on its keyway in (perhaps) the wrong timing position; is this crucial, or can any small discrepancy be adjusted by moving ht leads to correct the firing order?

As you can imagine, I would rather go through the hassle of taking my sump,tensioner, RH engine mount, auxiliary dizzy/oil pump assembly and intermediate chain wheel back off (IF I HAVE TO) in order to get this right before I put the engine and gearbox back on its mounts, connect it all up, fill the sump with oil and then find that I cannot time it :!: :!:

P.S. My cylinder head is still off.

Best regards,

Ray

 

[harveyp6]

My lower timing chain tensioner is the newer type (as I understand it) without the allen key backing-off system. Can I 'lever' it away from the timing chain (through the aperture in the front of the timing chest) to 'disarm' it, or must I remove my sump to do so by completely removing the tensioner, please?

I think the theory with those is that levering the plunger back into the body locks it there. Personally, even if it does, I wouldn't trust it, so unless you can get a good sized cable tie around it through the access hole, then I'd drop the sump, especially as that's relatively easy to do.

I appear to have put my intermediate chainwheel on its keyway in (perhaps) the wrong timing position; is this crucial, or can any small discrepancy be adjusted by moving ht leads to correct the firing order?

IIRC you can pull the distributor drive gear out from the housing and then refit it in the correct position, regardless of where the keyway on the intermediate chainwheel has ended up. The important thing is getting the crank and camshaft correctly timed. Otherwise you should have enough angular movement on the distributor which when combined with the minimum of 90 degrees you get moving the leads on the cap should get it running. The distributor will just be in the wrong orientation.

As you can imagine, I would rather go through the hassle of taking my sump,tensioner, RH engine mount, auxiliary dizzy/oil pump assembly and intermediate chain wheel back off (IF I HAVE TO) in order to get this right before I put the engine and gearbox back on its mounts, connect it all up, fill the sump with oil and then find that I cannot time it :!: :!:

I see no reason why you should have to, providing you can live with yourself knowing that the keyway isn't exactly where it should be according to the book.....

 

[esray]

As you can imagine, I would rather go through the hassle of taking my sump,tensioner, RH engine mount, auxiliary dizzy/oil pump assembly and intermediate chain wheel back off (IF I HAVE TO) in order to get this right before I put the engine and gearbox back on its mounts, connect it all up, fill the sump with oil and then find that I cannot time it :!: :!:

I see no reason why you should have to, providing you can live with yourself knowing that the keyway isn't exactly where it should be according to the book.....[/quote]

Oh, I can live with myself as less than perfect - Harvey, some times you are a positive aid to a good nights sleep