Main Bearings

suffolkpete

suffolkpete

Member
Is it possible to replace the main bearing shells with the engine in situ and if so, how? HBoL says only the big ends can.
 
Yes it's possible. Remove the sump, and back off the bottom timing chain tensioner. Then slacken all the mains caps, and remove them one at a time. With the cap off, spin the top shell over the top of the crank to remove it. Push it from the side without the locating tang using the Rover approved tool*. Then you will able to pull it from the other side. If only half of the new shells have oil holes make sure the ones with the holes go in the top.

* A lollystick works well, you should have a few of those lying about at the moment.....
 
An excellent description, with all the possible pitfalls. Just one question, what do you mean by "Don't forget to replace the rear sump oil seal on main No 5 bearing cap." Surely if it's a circular seal then it can't be removed with the crankshaft in situ.
 
That's the seal between the cap and the sump, not between the cap and the crank, (that's the rear main seal).
 
harveyp6 said:
That's the seal between the cap and the sump, not between the cap and the crank, (that's the rear main seal).
Click to expand...

Also check that the front main seal is seated properly before you put the sump back on. Had my sump off again a few weeks ago and didn't get the front one lined up properly. Low and behold it now leaks.... sigh. Can theoretically be bashed in from the front, but it's such a tight fit - and you really should get some flexi-gasket on it - that I'm going to have to drop the sump again.... :(
 
redrover said:
Also check that the front main seal is seated properly before you put the sump back on. Had my sump off again a few weeks ago and didn't get the front one lined up properly. Low and behold it now leaks.... sigh. Can theoretically be bashed in from the front, but it's such a tight fit - and you really should get some flexi-gasket on it - that I'm going to have to drop the sump again.... :(
Click to expand...


Been there, done that after dropping the top chain tensioner into the sump :roll: Wondered why there so much oil leaking from the front :shock: after refitting the sump :LOL: :LOL:

Dave
 
I've got the sump off and removed a main and a big-end cap. The problem I have is identifying the size of the existing shells. When I've done this sort of job in the past, the shells have always been stamped "STD" or "+010" etc but these only bear numbers. The main has 534188 on one end and 4597B on the other and the big end 530536 and 4600B on the other. I have a parts book for this model, but none of those numbers are listed. I assume that the 5xxxxx numbers are Rover part numbers and the other a manufacturer's code. Also the big end nuts are a self locking type and should be renewed. Where can I get replacements?
 
Normally unless they're stamped otherwise it's pretty safe to assume thet they're standard. I've always reused the big end nuts and I've never had any problems.
 
Thanks, Harvey. On further investigation, the shells were made by Vandervell, so the numbers were probably their part numbers.
 
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