mk1 3500 v8 auto gears slipping when warm
- Thread starter jasep6
- Start date
It certainly won't be helping matters, I would suggest changing the trans oil if you don't know the history of it anyway. But, do remember the BW boxes in these cars take a specific oil, not the usual Dexron off the shelf stuff. Whilst you have it drained it may even be worth doing the trans filter too then you know it's done for your own peace of mind.
Also one more thing, the oil refill job on these if you haven't done one before can be a messy affair, so get some rags ready under the car and at the top whilst filling the oil.
Good luck
Also one more thing, the oil refill job on these if you haven't done one before can be a messy affair, so get some rags ready under the car and at the top whilst filling the oil.
Good luck
Hi jasep6, welcome to P6 ownership!
Checking the fluid level in your auto box is not as straightforward as you might expect. So much so, that our resident BW expert - HarveyP6 - has given us all a handy guide as to how to check it. You'll find this at the start of the section on transmissions.
Until you have the fluid level corrected to the procedure in this guide there is really nothing to worry about with your transmission. All sorts of odd events kick in when the fluid level is wrong. BUT changing the transmission fluid is a very bad idea on a Borg Warner. If the transmission fluid is clean and the correct colour and there are no burnt clutch lining type smells, then it doesn't need changing. If the opposite is true, then changing the fluid is very likely to precipitate complete failure! It appears that the friction materials in the box "get used to" the fluid in which they are running, and if you disturb they then cry foul!
As stated by restojon, it is very important that you use the correct fluid to top up - using a modern synthetic will kill your box in no time.
Chris
Checking the fluid level in your auto box is not as straightforward as you might expect. So much so, that our resident BW expert - HarveyP6 - has given us all a handy guide as to how to check it. You'll find this at the start of the section on transmissions.
Until you have the fluid level corrected to the procedure in this guide there is really nothing to worry about with your transmission. All sorts of odd events kick in when the fluid level is wrong. BUT changing the transmission fluid is a very bad idea on a Borg Warner. If the transmission fluid is clean and the correct colour and there are no burnt clutch lining type smells, then it doesn't need changing. If the opposite is true, then changing the fluid is very likely to precipitate complete failure! It appears that the friction materials in the box "get used to" the fluid in which they are running, and if you disturb they then cry foul!
As stated by restojon, it is very important that you use the correct fluid to top up - using a modern synthetic will kill your box in no time.
Chris
NickDunning
Active Member
From Harvey's checklist: "Use only ATF-G or fluid that meets Ford spec. M2C-33G. DON'T use any of the DEXRON type fluids."
You may have to order some via a Motor Factors, not generally available in Halfords etc. now.
You may have to order some via a Motor Factors, not generally available in Halfords etc. now.
Generally once they start slipping regularly you won't cure them with an oil change. Low fliud level can cause problems, but is normally accompanied by delayed engagement. If this is slip in all forward drive only and REVERSE is fine it will be the front clutch.
Draining the sump will get less than half the fluid out anyway. Is the kickdown cable connected and correctly adjusted? You need to heed the warnings about changing the fluid in boxes that are on the edge already as that can tip them over. That said if it's been filled with DEXRON you may eke a little more life out of it with the correct fluid.
Draining the sump will get less than half the fluid out anyway. Is the kickdown cable connected and correctly adjusted? You need to heed the warnings about changing the fluid in boxes that are on the edge already as that can tip them over. That said if it's been filled with DEXRON you may eke a little more life out of it with the correct fluid.
From the last invoice I got:
Gasket, seal & teflon ring kit £60.45
Rear band £37.50
Flexi front band £46.35 (You can use a solid one like the rear band if you have an early servo and want to cut the price down.)
Filter £7.18
Friction plates £2.66 ea, (5 for front clutch, 5 for rear)
Front steel plates (5) £9.50
Rear steel plates (5) £9.50
Diahragm spring for front clutch (wasn't on that invoice) about £12 IIRC.
All plus VAT
You'll need special installers to refit the pistons back into the clutch drums.
Gasket, seal & teflon ring kit £60.45
Rear band £37.50
Flexi front band £46.35 (You can use a solid one like the rear band if you have an early servo and want to cut the price down.)
Filter £7.18
Friction plates £2.66 ea, (5 for front clutch, 5 for rear)
Front steel plates (5) £9.50
Rear steel plates (5) £9.50
Diahragm spring for front clutch (wasn't on that invoice) about £12 IIRC.
All plus VAT
You'll need special installers to refit the pistons back into the clutch drums.