my new 3500

rickyv8

Member
got this on sunday night, only 59000 miles, black leather interior, almost immaculate the interior, body work quite good, just needs a tidy up

here some pics, will get better ones soon

2011-05-10195543.jpg


2011-05-10195526.jpg



2011-05-10195514.jpg


2011-05-10195502-1.jpg
 
Very nice, it could be the twin of mine almost. There seems to be a lot of Almond cars survived, or am I imagining that? I wonder if there is a better survival for certain colours? And if so why?
 
I wonder if there is a better survival for certain colours
answer - yes... i think the reason is twofold...

1. Some paints are softer than others...

2. Fashion means that certain colours get changed... Browns, avacado...

Nick D pointed out that it's rare to see a 3500 in burnt grey like PAE ( grey/brown ) despite there being loads made!
 
Looks like a good one Ricky.

Will we be seeing you on the roads of Fife and the surrounding area then :wink:

Dave
 
rockdemon said:
I wonder if there is a better survival for certain colours
answer - yes... i think the reason is twofold...

1. Some paints are softer than others...

2. Fashion means that certain colours get changed... Browns, avacado...

Nick D pointed out that it's rare to see a 3500 in burnt grey like PAE ( grey/brown ) despite there being loads made!

I suspect the survival of Almond, Mexico Brown and Tobacco Leaf cars over, say, red or blue ones, relates to the original owners IMHO. The louder colours would have been repmobiles/company cars and had hard lives. The Almond and brown ones were often purchased by retiring/retired people as status symbols etc.

Most of the decent cars I've owned originally had older owners.

Another colour you don't see enough of is Cameron Green - this is the colour I get asked for more than any other, but they're not common.

In the case of the Three Thousand Five I suspect quite a few Burnt Grey ones changed colour in later life - but there aren't many survivors either. There's a Three Thousand Five on eBay at the moment which appears to have been later re-sprayed Mexico Brown in a token effort to look more like a Series 2:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....30735104&category=29759&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

Shame he's trying to sell the car without the plate. When I owned WPG2G I decided against doing that, and I'm very glad for the car that I didn't.
 
i will be using the car back and forward work and going around in so yes it shall be out and about lol


well to back up the previous posts about colour, this car was owned by an elderly couple and when the old man died his wife gave the car up, even then i dont think it was driven too much


i havent gt the v5 back yet, any way of finding out how many previous owners it has before it gets to me, which will take a few weeks
 
rickyv8 said:
got this on sunday night, only 59000 miles, black leather interior, almost immaculate the interior, body work quite good, just needs a tidy up

here some pics, will get better ones soon

2011-05-10195543.jpg


2011-05-10195526.jpg



2011-05-10195514.jpg


2011-05-10195502-1.jpg
does look superb Ricky

you lucky man

what is the situation with petrol? can you just put unleaded in, no problem?
 
i have some additive i use along with the petrol,

any other better way to go about the whole leaded unleaded thing with these engines?
 
Not sure you need additive on the lead front. If you have a 10.5:1 engine you need octane boost or super unleaded. 5 star was 100 octane if I understand correctly.

Rich
 
Hi Ricky

I especially like the interior - superb condition!

This is your chance to try out the Advanced Search, located under the search window at top right of the red header panel.

Unleaded or additive is a very disputed area for the V8. Once you get to the SD1 type cylinder head there is no doubt - unleaded, but the P5/P6 attracts conflicting views. There are some facts about though. First off, even if the valve heads and seats weren't suitable for unleaded in the first place, miles of use with leaded petrol will have left them with a lead "memory" which lasts a very long time. (unless you grind the valves in of course) Next, the V8 has alloy heads, so of necessity has valve seat inserts. So, even if the inserts aren't perfect for unleaded, they will be a long way along the way.

This leaves what most people find a very difficult decision. The adverts for lead additive play on a great fear of expensive disaster. So my advice is to keep the thing in perspective. Your cylinder heads will need re-building eventually, will using unleaded bring it that significantly closer? If your car is a hobby car and you don't do that many miles the answer is almost certainly "no". If you use it for work and travel all over the country @ 40,00mls per year it might be worth it.

Where you have a simple decision is whether to use an additive to improve octane number of the fuel you use. Trial and error will quickly tell you whether your car's favourite tipple leads to pinking. If it does, start by searching out a high octane petrol - Tesco do a 99 octane. Only then go on to top up with octane booster (its more expensive than upgrading to Super!) if required.

Chris
 
the car is used every day but only for a couple of miles back and forward work, so its not going to be used to much, so i will stick with the additive for now


thanks for all the help
 
rickyv8 said:
im not that up on the whole engine ration thing but whats the way of finding out?


thanks

The cr is stamped next to the engine number which on your engine, if original, will be on the shoulder of the block behind the n/s cylinder head. Later engines had it stamped into the top of the block next to the dipstick tube.
 
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