Saturn Simon
New Member
A very interesting car, and thread! Best of luck! 
New guy looking for advice/tips
- Thread starter cas
- Start date
Thanks chrisyork, while I have been sorting through ebay with the -land etc, I didn't click into it enough to search worldwide. (seems obvious, but I didn't think of it!) I had also been searching ebay.co.uk, but this makes it easier! I had not heard of the heritage site, and I think I will look into that after I get my plan of attack figured out. Another thanks on the door hanging warning! The tips and info on this site are keeping my optimism high. I guess I will move this into the members projects section when the car is home (tomorrow am)... I noticed there was no post with a gallery of users cars? not sure if that would be frowned upon... but if not, i'd love to see some examples of the marque (for selfish reasons haha), they're quite uncommon here and it would be a great reference to see everyones cars with the year of manufacture. I really have a limited idea of what would be correct on this car. Maybe I will start that if it's not considered a bad idea?
Thanks for all the tips, advice, and enthusiasm! I can tell this is a site I will appreciate.
oh, as to the interior thats in my car, the seats are pretty ragged, but the dash (if i remember correctly) was in good shape... just dirty. It has black leather(?) with tan carpeting... but if doesn't stray too far from factory specs I have always thought tan seats in a black/grey car look sharp. There's plenty of things to worry about first though haha. I will keep the forum updated, and probably ask a bunch of dumb questions! thanks alot, christian
Thanks for all the tips, advice, and enthusiasm! I can tell this is a site I will appreciate.
oh, as to the interior thats in my car, the seats are pretty ragged, but the dash (if i remember correctly) was in good shape... just dirty. It has black leather(?) with tan carpeting... but if doesn't stray too far from factory specs I have always thought tan seats in a black/grey car look sharp. There's plenty of things to worry about first though haha. I will keep the forum updated, and probably ask a bunch of dumb questions! thanks alot, christian
Rudiger Wicke
Member
cas said:
40304860B - indeed, a P6 of 1965.
Rudiger
Oops! Misread your chassis number. 4860 indeed, not 48060! Mind you, doesn't change the analysis - still comes out as Sept '65.
There are lots of photos on Rudiger's site, also on the RP6C site (http://www.p6club.com/).
BUT there are very few pictures around of what the rear of an early S1 should look like. So I scanned this in of the one and only prototype convertible:
This is the correct lettering, reversing lamp and rear lamps for your car. In addition this car has the spare wheel on the boot lid fitment - the badge half way up the trunk lid and the handle below the number plate. Later cars have two further variations of the badging, first they go to the Rover letters moving to a position low down to the left of the license plate holder and then both the Rover letters and the 2000 letters turn into printed plates. All pictures you will see of USA cars will show a different license plate plinth to suit the size and shape of US plates. This is not correct for yours, which is too early to have it. The UK version as you already have fitted is correct. It is possible that the indicator lenses should be red rather than amber - I'm going to have to check up on that. Later cars certainly do have red, but I have a feeling yours is old enough still to get amber.
Chris
There are lots of photos on Rudiger's site, also on the RP6C site (http://www.p6club.com/).
BUT there are very few pictures around of what the rear of an early S1 should look like. So I scanned this in of the one and only prototype convertible:
This is the correct lettering, reversing lamp and rear lamps for your car. In addition this car has the spare wheel on the boot lid fitment - the badge half way up the trunk lid and the handle below the number plate. Later cars have two further variations of the badging, first they go to the Rover letters moving to a position low down to the left of the license plate holder and then both the Rover letters and the 2000 letters turn into printed plates. All pictures you will see of USA cars will show a different license plate plinth to suit the size and shape of US plates. This is not correct for yours, which is too early to have it. The UK version as you already have fitted is correct. It is possible that the indicator lenses should be red rather than amber - I'm going to have to check up on that. Later cars certainly do have red, but I have a feeling yours is old enough still to get amber.
Chris
Attachments
glad to hear that my car doesn't have any "number problems" I just got back from double checking the numbers and I did get them right. Thanks for that photo, sure is a good looking car! mine has no handle, but the lettering and number plate light are the same. After a closer inspection of the interior: seats are trash but for left hand side rear seat (which is just dried out, not broken). 3 of 4 door panels are nice, carpets are bad, but there. It does have the rev counter and clock, clocks trim is bad, but the rest is nice. visors are sloppy but intact. It does have the light behind the rear-view mirror, which is pitted but not too bad. dash pad is badly cracked, steering wheel has a couple of splits, but useable. No headrests are there, and the rest is no good, but nothing tragic: holes in the headliner etc. I can't get the drivers (LH) door opened from the outside, and the opposite rear door is locked (maybe permanently haha) lock button is half cracked, and stuck. all handles are there and will clean up, a little pitting, but useable.
The engine has the air cleaner assembly removed, but may be intact in the boot (not sure if it's complete, but some is there). it has a standard "ford" starter solenoid (no idea what happened or why they did that) and the rest will wait until tomorrow for a better look. it has no battery, and though there were several battery posts in the tech section, none clearly stated which the correct battery may be... anyone in the states have an idea for the correct one? The shift selector feels disconnected, but reverse does feel like it engages (is that possible?) probably linkage, as i understand that is a problem point on these cars.
Thanks for reading this long post... and for all the help. For those wondering, here in the states we have pretty easy regulations: where i live i need only a safety inspection (basics like brakes/lights/windows) and to pay sales tax (@ 7%), they add a personal property tax in this state, but that is 5%. there's no break on any specific year and it's all pretty simple and cheap.
time to order some books... thanks again, christian
The engine has the air cleaner assembly removed, but may be intact in the boot (not sure if it's complete, but some is there). it has a standard "ford" starter solenoid (no idea what happened or why they did that) and the rest will wait until tomorrow for a better look. it has no battery, and though there were several battery posts in the tech section, none clearly stated which the correct battery may be... anyone in the states have an idea for the correct one? The shift selector feels disconnected, but reverse does feel like it engages (is that possible?) probably linkage, as i understand that is a problem point on these cars.
Thanks for reading this long post... and for all the help. For those wondering, here in the states we have pretty easy regulations: where i live i need only a safety inspection (basics like brakes/lights/windows) and to pay sales tax (@ 7%), they add a personal property tax in this state, but that is 5%. there's no break on any specific year and it's all pretty simple and cheap.
time to order some books... thanks again, christian
Hi Christian
These are the rear lamp lower sections you need to return the rear of your car to original appearance.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-P6-TYPE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f008e90ec
Chris
These are the rear lamp lower sections you need to return the rear of your car to original appearance.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-P6-TYPE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f008e90ec
Chris
There's life in that old lady yet, I wish you all the best with the new purchase and hope you enjoy learning some new skills along the way, a slow methodical approach is what is needed and you'll begin to understand how the car was put together in the first place, and as someone mentioned further up the page beware they are addictive, I have accumulated 2 P6's and an SD1 IN 1 YEAR.
All the best, look forward to seeing how you get on.
All the best, look forward to seeing how you get on.
The car is home! It made the trouble-free trip on a tow dolly over last weekend and I have been very anxious to start, but wanted to wait until my service manual arrived (it arrived here yesterday!). I did pick up a battery since she didn't come with one, and now I have been humbled by a very basic question... How do I tell if my car is positive or negative earth? From my searches, if it has a rev-counter (mine does) it should be negative earth, but according to the letter in my chassis number (B) it should be positive earth. Is there a better way to tell?
On the plus side, I did manage to find a very friendly local shop that does only british cars... they have a group of guys who get together on tuesdays (after hours) and restore a shop project car (an early MG), and they are letting me hang out and soak up everything I can learn. So between this forum and there, I am a bit less scared of the work that needs to be done... now if i can only get past the basics... like how to hook up that battery haha.
any help would be appreciated, and thanks again for all the help you've already given me.
On the plus side, I did manage to find a very friendly local shop that does only british cars... they have a group of guys who get together on tuesdays (after hours) and restore a shop project car (an early MG), and they are letting me hang out and soak up everything I can learn. So between this forum and there, I am a bit less scared of the work that needs to be done... now if i can only get past the basics... like how to hook up that battery haha.
any help would be appreciated, and thanks again for all the help you've already given me.
SimonEccles
New Member
Dear Cas,
Welcome to the world of the P6 Rover. I have owned at least one since I was 17 - 22 years ago(!). I am now on my 16th and 17th p6. In that time I have had to replace or restore almost every part of them, and whilst I'd agree some components car seem daunting - actually it's pretty straightforward on the 2000SC.
There are tricks to dismanting and rebuilding all the bits - post questions in advance and answers will flow forth!
At risk of stating the obvious - the risk is losing the little things: shims have already been mentioned but fixing clips and the many different sizes nuts and bolts. I'd get the base unit sound, then the engine running (very safisfying) then brakes, gearbox and suspension - make it drivable and seem like the end is in sight. Then it's a slow detail game.
Do enjoy it!
Simon
Welcome to the world of the P6 Rover. I have owned at least one since I was 17 - 22 years ago(!). I am now on my 16th and 17th p6. In that time I have had to replace or restore almost every part of them, and whilst I'd agree some components car seem daunting - actually it's pretty straightforward on the 2000SC.
There are tricks to dismanting and rebuilding all the bits - post questions in advance and answers will flow forth!
At risk of stating the obvious - the risk is losing the little things: shims have already been mentioned but fixing clips and the many different sizes nuts and bolts. I'd get the base unit sound, then the engine running (very safisfying) then brakes, gearbox and suspension - make it drivable and seem like the end is in sight. Then it's a slow detail game.
Do enjoy it!
Simon