Obeaston - Horror Project
- Thread starter Obeaston
- Start date
sweatmonster
New Member
11 years locked away!! I feel your pain. Time to roll up them sleeves and get spannering. 
Hiya,
Yes the garage roof was recovered prior to use and the outside creosoted (now banned-shows how long ago that was done). Never even thought of mould, phew I'm lucky. The car has actually never turned a wheel since 1987 except a move from one lockup to another and that was a tow job.
Yes the garage roof was recovered prior to use and the outside creosoted (now banned-shows how long ago that was done). Never even thought of mould, phew I'm lucky. The car has actually never turned a wheel since 1987 except a move from one lockup to another and that was a tow job.
Hiya,
Sun was out this morning, after taking SWMBO to the supermarket and got home, had lunch. Asked if she had anything planned for the afternoon (no chance of that ) asked if she wanted to accompany me to the lockup for some advice on where to start clearing - method in my madness. She needs time to come to a decision - Sunday may be a goer!!
You may think this is very sneeky, but my arthritic knees and swollen legs are playing up just now (on medication) but really want to get near the car to see what the bodywork is like, whether it's a 10:1 or 9:1 engine, what carbs are fitted, distributer type etc.
Living in hope.
Sun was out this morning, after taking SWMBO to the supermarket and got home, had lunch. Asked if she had anything planned for the afternoon (no chance of that
) asked if she wanted to accompany me to the lockup for some advice on where to start clearing - method in my madness. She needs time to come to a decision - Sunday may be a goer!!You may think this is very sneeky, but my arthritic knees and swollen legs are playing up just now (on medication) but really want to get near the car to see what the bodywork is like, whether it's a 10:1 or 9:1 engine, what carbs are fitted, distributer type etc.
Living in hope.
JVY
Active Member
Compression ratio should be stamped on the engine block (front left of engine, looking in from front). Would guess your dizzy will be a Lucas 25D4?? I think the carb's on later 2000TC's were HS8's - no doubt someone on here will tell you exactly how to identify the type. Certainly should be easy to tell difference between HD8/HS8 and the later HIF6 as the HD8/HS8 should have an external float chamber sitting to side of main carb body whereas on the HIF6 it sits underneath the carb body.
Sorry to hear about your knees - that's the last thing you need when trying to work on a car. Hope you make some progress tomorrow.
Sorry to hear about your knees - that's the last thing you need when trying to work on a car. Hope you make some progress tomorrow.
Quick update - had a couple of hours this evening spare - managed to get near her:
Drivers door opened, clutch pedal works gears go in all 4 and reverse, steering rocks, brake pedal solid (maybe slightly seized :roll: ), handbrake was left off but is seized.
Bonnet removed - I'd put a big thick rug over the engine - it looks Ok but couldn't get right in there with light.
Rear door opened - D pillar bottom corner rusted away - I know you can get replacement panels but will this show serious main bodyshell rot??
I have no power in the lockup, but with a generator would an electric welder do the job??
More later
Obeaston
Drivers door opened, clutch pedal works gears go in all 4 and reverse, steering rocks, brake pedal solid (maybe slightly seized :roll: ), handbrake was left off but is seized.
Bonnet removed - I'd put a big thick rug over the engine - it looks Ok but couldn't get right in there with light.
Rear door opened - D pillar bottom corner rusted away - I know you can get replacement panels but will this show serious main bodyshell rot??
I have no power in the lockup, but with a generator would an electric welder do the job??
More later
Obeaston
JVY
Active Member
Glad you made some progress. Although I have an old MIG welder lying in the shed, I have never had an excuse to use it (yet!). Not sure if you spotted Richard's Clarke 90EN review on the forum?
http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9062
Clarke 90EN manual:
http://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/mig_welders/mig90en_151en.pdf
Going by the 240V 13A input required by the Clarke 90EN, you might need a generator of around 4KVA capacity:
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=22787
Seems that something like a 90EN should be good for metal up to 4/5mm thick?
If there is some rust visible around the lower D pillar, it might be worth removing the rear seat to look at the corner of the floor as it goes into the D post - I think this is a common rot spot. I think the general approach might be to take the body panels off and see what condition the main body is in? On the bright side, if there is a lot of rust underneath and if you are handy with the welder and willing to spend the time you should be able to sort it out?
What's next on the agenda? Maybe starting the engine?
http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9062
Clarke 90EN manual:
http://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/mig_welders/mig90en_151en.pdf
Going by the 240V 13A input required by the Clarke 90EN, you might need a generator of around 4KVA capacity:
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=22787
Seems that something like a 90EN should be good for metal up to 4/5mm thick?
If there is some rust visible around the lower D pillar, it might be worth removing the rear seat to look at the corner of the floor as it goes into the D post - I think this is a common rot spot. I think the general approach might be to take the body panels off and see what condition the main body is in? On the bright side, if there is a lot of rust underneath and if you are handy with the welder and willing to spend the time you should be able to sort it out?
What's next on the agenda? Maybe starting the engine?
The 90EN is only really good up to around 2mm - THe welder manufacturers play the same game as speaker manufacturers.... however for most things on a P6 that power level is fine.
See http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/buying.htm
I have a clarke 100E now which seems to be reasonable. I'm using gas rather than gasless as it seems to spatter less, is less likely to blow holes and you can see where you're welding better as there is less smoke...
Rich,
See http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/buying.htm
I have a clarke 100E now which seems to be reasonable. I'm using gas rather than gasless as it seems to spatter less, is less likely to blow holes and you can see where you're welding better as there is less smoke...
Rich,