Occie gets a 5-speed box!

Re: gearbox mount ideas

quattro said:
Hi Stan

Sparky's 5 speed was already fitted so I don't know exactly how it was done, but the 5 speed mount you have has been modified by flattening out the outer fixings and then bolted to new bracketry which has been welded to the inside of the centre tunnel. I'll see if I can get some pics if you like. Sparky was an auto though - so probably not a lot of good.
Click to expand...

Hi Richard,

Yes, I can see how that would work OK with the wider tunnel. Don't worry too much about the pics, but if you do manage some it'd be interesting to compare the two tunnel widths.


quattro said:
When I did the job, many years ago, I left the original mountings welded to the inner tunnel, then put some smaller rubber mountings into the vertical (forward) mountings on the gearbox.

Jacked the box up to where I wanted it and made a flat plate up to match up the fixing studs. I used an old bumper bracket for this - worked a treat.

Best of luck with it

Richard
Click to expand...
Using the forward tapped holes is my fallback position as I think the angled arrangement gives better lateral support, and also allows for fitting the snub rubber as per the original design.

Thanks Richard,
 
Hi Stan, an interesting conundrum.

Could you make that mounting bracket more of a 'U' shape so that the horizontal sections either side of the mounting bobbins were vertical and bolt them through the sides of the transmission tunnel?
 
testrider said:
Hi Stan, an interesting conundrum.

Could you make that mounting bracket more of a 'U' shape so that the horizontal sections either side of the mounting bobbins were vertical and bolt them through the sides of the transmission tunnel?
Click to expand...

Hi Paul,

I think I've decided to have a go at it in this way. Not sure how much time I'll get at this weekend, but I'll measure up the tunnel width and cut the bracket down to this, then weld the ends back on vertically.

That's the plan anyway...see how I get on! :)
 
Not sure about the strength of the tunnel walls, you may need a couple of spreader plates to spread the load a bit.
 
Had half an hour in the garage after work & I think I've sussed which way I'm going with it. Hopefully crack on come Sunday (with pics! :) )

webmaster said:
Not sure about the strength of the tunnel walls, you may need a couple of spreader plates to spread the load a bit.
Click to expand...

It's a good point, Richard...I'll bear this in mind.
 
Well with Valentines Day upcoming I didn't get to crack on on Sunday...but did have a lovely lunch with the lovely lady! :p

But back to more important ( :wink: ) matters...

P6 speedo cable with the SD1 flange fitted...and guess who found out how much easier it is to couple this up before jacking the box up to its final height! :oops:

100_3153.jpg


Lowering the box back down a few inches made it so much easier.

============================

As posted previously, the SD1 crossmember...

100_3054.jpg


...whilst obviously suited to the box, won't fit in the tunnel so some surgery was needed...made a tad more difficult as the LT77, to match the P6 box lateral position is offset in the tunnel.

100_3141.jpg


Trial fitted...

100_3156.jpg


100_3160.jpg


100_3161.jpg


100_3171.jpg


Crossmember needs painting, underseal to tidy up then a couple of 5/16" bolts each side with spreader plates, and nylocs all round.
 
Very near now... you'll be selling the 600 soon ;o) occie's going to ne a great motorway machine!
 
Great stuff :)

rockdemon said:
occie's going to ne a great motorway machine!
Click to expand...

It's quite noticable how much lower the engine revs compared to a standard auto. My P6B with an LT77 gets 28MPG on a run, sitting at 65-70mph.
 
Tofufi said:
Great stuff :)

rockdemon said:
occie's going to ne a great motorway machine!
Click to expand...

It's quite noticable how much lower the engine revs compared to a standard auto. My P6B with an LT77 gets 28MPG on a run, sitting at 65-70mph.
Click to expand...

Cheers Jim,

If I remember correctly, it was you that gave me a heads-up on an LT77 box for sale last month. I didn't get that one, but hopefully the one that's going in now is a good 'un! :)
 
vaultsman said:
If I remember correctly, it was you that gave me a heads-up on an LT77 box for sale last month. I didn't get that one, but hopefully the one that's going in now is a good 'un! :)
Click to expand...

That was me :)

Fingers crossed the 'box works for you, it's always a bit of a gamble buying things like that unless you can see them working.
Are you still planning on attending the Malvern show this weekend? :)
 
Tofufi said:
vaultsman said:
If I remember correctly, it was you that gave me a heads-up on an LT77 box for sale last month. I didn't get that one, but hopefully the one that's going in now is a good 'un! :)
Click to expand...

That was me :)

Fingers crossed the 'box works for you, it's always a bit of a gamble buying things like that unless you can see them working.
Are you still planning on attending the Malvern show this weekend? :)
Click to expand...

This weekend? I'm hoping I'll be able to make the April one! :wink:
 
Finally got a bit more time in the garage.... :roll:

Box is now self-supporting...

100_3208.jpg


100_3215.jpg


A little difficulty in getting the nylocs on...bringing the sides of the crossmember vertically downwards narrows the access...especially with my sausage-fingers!


Offside plate inside the car...
100_3224.jpg


...and the nearside...
100_3230.jpg


Thought while I'm at it I ought to replace the prop UJ's, so made a start...
100_3239.jpg


A question...
Offering up the auto prop, the sliding joint is well-extended. Normal & OK?

Oh, and another one...

Would anyone have a scan of the V8 SD1 parts book/WM showing/explaining the snub rubber arrangement in the centre of the gearbox rear crossmember? I've only got the Haynes and the photos/explanation are as clear as mud.
 
AFAIR the sliding joint was further extended than normal, but as long as the collar fits and there is a small amount of possible movement it will be fine. You have to remember that it's not a normal arrangement where the diff moves up and down on the springs so needing a lot of movement in the sliding joint, both the gearbox and diff are fixed fairly rigidly so not a lot of sliding movement is required, just enough to account for the box and diff moving on their mountings.
 
harveyp6 said:
AFAIR the sliding joint was further extended than normal, but as long as the collar fits and there is a small amount of possible movement it will be fine. You have to remember that it's not a normal arrangement where the diff moves up and down on the springs so needing a lot of movement in the sliding joint, both the gearbox and diff are fixed fairly rigidly so not a lot of sliding movement is required, just enough to account for the box and diff moving on their mountings.
Click to expand...

Thanks Harvey,

As using the auto prop on this conversion is well-tried, I thought the answer to my question couldn't be other than "yes", but my mind at rest now.

Cheers,
 
As for the snub rubber, from what I remember the bolt goes in with a washer and the "tophat" rubber under the crossmember, and then there is just a lock nut above to lock the bolt when it's in the correct position. It needs to be such that the rubber isn't under compression, or even touching at rest, but is close enough that it stops the box moving upwards and stretching the cotton reels.

I'll refresh my memory with a look in the book tomorrow. (Even though I've only got a Haynes.)
 
vaultsman said:
This weekend? I'm hoping I'll be able to make the April one! :wink:
Click to expand...

My mistake - that'll teach me to read things properly!

Fingers crossed Occie will be fully finished by then 8)

Jim.
 
UJ's finished and the prop fitted...
100_3255.jpg

100_3253.jpg

100_3252.jpg


Exhaust trial fitted and jacked up to original height with the clamp clearing the underbody...
100_3265.jpg

100_3259.jpg

100_3260.jpg


The two M8 holes that were my fall-back position for the Metalastik bobbins now fall handily for the exhaust strap fixing :). Rather than turning up a couple of 3/4" long spacers, I might make up a spacer block and reuse the existing slot in the strap.
 
rockdemon said:
Wow - so close...

what's left?

Rich.
Click to expand...

Hi Rich,

Still a few fiddly bits to do... :roll:

Snub rubber for the rear mounting (still a bit unsure on this arrangement), slave cylinder and hose, bellhousing dust cover (still need to source/adapt this), gear lever to body gaiter, filler plug access. Gear lever to shorten (probably).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top