Oil Sump Pan Removal

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finfont

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All:
Re: 1972 3500 ( Left Hand Steering)
I would appreciate input into the following questions regarding removing the oil sump pan:
1. Do the exhaust pipes need to be removed prior, or, can the sump pan be coaxed out once the pan bolts are removed without so doing?
2. What’s the best way to access the pan bolts above the front cross member? I’m especially concerned about replacing them. Access seems severely limited.

I’ve consulted both the Rover workshop manual as well as the Rover repair operation manual. I found them no help at all.

Any advice much appreciated!
Drew
 
I removed my P6b sump years ago. Cant remember having to remove the exhausts.
I do remember the bolts under the cross member made me cross.
 
I'm pretty certain that I undid the engine mounts and lifted the motor an inch or so to get better access to the bolts across the front crossmember.
 
Exhaust removal or not is dictated by the gearbox isnt it? Auto - yes, manual - no. I have dropped and replaced mine without exhaust removal, but its a manual, so no cross pipe under the pan. Replacing the bolts above the crossmember was a challenge, but I managed it without lifting the engine. Note the low tightening torque, if you can find it.
 
jp928 said:
Exhaust removal or not is dictated by the gearbox isnt it? Auto - yes, manual - no. I have dropped and replaced mine without exhaust removal, but its a manual, so no cross pipe under the pan. Replacing the bolts above the crossmember was a challenge, but I managed it without lifting the engine. Note the low tightening torque, if you can find it.
Click to expand...
It is indeed an automatic , so I suspect I’ll have to remove the exhaust pipes. Do you rember what tool you used for the bolts above the crossmber- socket or wrench (spanner)? I do have torquing specifications for this car.
 
From memory I used a ratchet spanner on the partly obstructed bolts, but I do have a small 1/4 drive socket bar that can be useful in tight spaces. Getting them started is the problem on re-assembly. I usually hold the gasket in place with ~4 cable ties through bolt holes so it stays in place while getting bolts started, and at the last minute cut them and remove - suggest going for the latest neoprene gaskets. I cant find a torque figure for these bolts in the manual, but a later 3.9L manual lists 17 ft/lb, which seems high for a cork gasket - they squeeze out if too high. Ordinary 1/2" drive torque wrenches will not be accurate at this level, so I use a 1/4 drive wrench that peaks at 18.5 ft/lbs. Douse the exhaust studs in something penetrating (50-50 acetone, ATF) a day or two before trying to undo them, replace with brass if not already.
 
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