P4 was misfiring a bit and now won't start

G

Glen B

New Member
I drove my recently bought 1963 110 about 20 miles north from its previous home in Nottingham which it made ok. It's started up a few times on my drive but then cut out after a few feet on my drive and now won't start. The 110 had hardly been used for a couple of years until it's 20 journey to our house and when I removed the glass fuel filter housing it was full of sediment which I've cleaned out.
I'm suspecting that the journey may have loosened up a lot more muck into the fuel system and that's why it won't start. I fitted a clear inline filter just before the filter housing to try and catch muck before it goes into the carb. When I switched the ignition back on, the glass filter filled up quickly but I realised it needed tightening as it leaked. After tightening it I switched ignition back on and the housing refilled but really slowly, almost a dribble. I'm wondering if I should get a rebuild kit for the carb and pump or is there something more simple I should try first. The previous owner told me the tank reserve option didn't work and if I switched it to reserve it would shut the fuel off.
 
The filter should go after the sedimenter bowl, the sedimenter bowl takes out the larger pieces and any water, and the filter then takes out the fines. A clean up of the fuel system would be a good idea if for no more than piece of mind. The fuel reserve is obtained by the use of two pumps situated in the back corner of the boot by the rear light. Having said that I seem to remember that the 110 sometimes uses the 3 litre P5 arrangement of the back to back pump, again switched electrically.

Colin
 
Last edited:
Although you have identified fuel system problems I’d be tempted to just check you’re getting a spark too. Just to be sure.

On the slow filling of the filter. If the float chambers are full then you will see a slower fill rate in the filter (assuming there’s no return fuel line to the tank).
 
sdibbers said:
Although you have identified fuel system problems I’d be tempted to just check you’re getting a spark too. Just to be sure.

On the slow filling of the filter. If the float chambers are full then you will see a slower fill rate in the filter (assuming there’s no return fuel line to the tank).
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply. I did take the plug out of no2 and the spark looked strong. It has electronic ignition fitted by previous owner.
 
You could take the piston and bell off the top of the carb and look for fuel down the jet - and check for filth at the same time. be careful as the piston in the bell is spring loaded and the needle attached is precision ground to very very close tolerances so you don't want to drop it...
 
Cannot speak for a P4, but on my P6, lack of fuel reserve was due to a blocked pick-up in the tank, caused by sediment in the tank. Blowing this clear with an airline released a mass of sediment which subsequently clogged the fuel filter. Looks as if you need a complete clear out of your fuel system, tank and filters. Sediment in the fuel pump is not a good idea and will lead to pump failure.
On my P6, fuel pump is under the bonnet, so I have a filter between tank pick-up and pump.
 
robin collis said:
Cannot speak for a P4, but on my P6, lack of fuel reserve was due to a blocked pick-up in the tank, caused by sediment in the tank. Blowing this clear with an airline released a mass of sediment which subsequently clogged the fuel filter. Looks as if you need a complete clear out of your fuel system, tank and filters. Sediment in the fuel pump is not a good idea and will lead to pump failure.
On my P6, fuel pump is under the bonnet, so I have a filter between tank pick-up and pump.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry for late reply and thanks. I've taken the tank off and all the old pipes, sender unit and main and reserve connections and sloshed some white vinegar, bicarb and a handful of screws around the tank after draining out the old petrol. I then took it to be sandblasted and powder coated in black and the guy said he'd do the inside as much as he could as well if I was ok to clean the residue out. He also said he'd seal the inside. A pinhole appeared at the top of the tank after sandblasting which I repaired with petrol patch yesterday. I've bought all new hoses for the connections to pump, breather and to front of car. One think is bothering me, I've bought fuel hose but when I looked at Wadhams site they sell metal fuel lines and I'm not sure I'm doing right now with the fuel lines. I'm going to clean the inside of the tank today and give the outside a coat of black Schultz and while the tank is off I'm going to clean the underside of the car above tank area back to bare metal and red oxide it, then spray it black, then Schultz it. At present it has a very thin coat of black underseal which is flaking off.
 
Glen B said:
Sorry for late reply and thanks. I've taken the tank off and all the old pipes, sender unit and main and reserve connections and sloshed some white vinegar, bicarb and a handful of screws around the tank after draining out the old petrol. I then took it to be sandblasted and powder coated in black and the guy said he'd do the inside as much as he could as well if I was ok to clean the residue out. He also said he'd seal the inside. A pinhole appeared at the top of the tank after sandblasting which I repaired with petrol patch yesterday. I've bought all new hoses for the connections to pump, breather and to front of car. One think is bothering me, I've bought fuel hose but when I looked at Wadhams site they sell metal fuel lines and I'm not sure I'm doing right now with the fuel lines. I'm going to clean the inside of the tank today and give the outside a coat of black Schultz and while the tank is off I'm going to clean the underside of the car above tank area back to bare metal and red oxide it, then spray it black, then Schultz it. At present it has a very thin coat of black underseal which is flaking off.
Click to expand...

Make sure you get good fuel hose (cohline) from a reputable source (ie. not off ebay, too much counterfeit stuff about). You need J30 R9/10 spec (R9 for external, R10 for internal or submerged). I get mine from -

Classic Microcars / AJL Electronics Gloucester

Get the stainless hose clips unless you're using 'O' clips. -

BZP hose clip for BIOHOSE8

Colin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top