Paint Runs

Z

zebedee37

New Member
Just done a practice spray (havent tried painting in many years!!) and have some nasty runs/sags. Should I wait a few days before using rubbing compound on them or do it as soon as the paint is dry.

Thanks
 
depends what the paint is? and as for rubbing compound, do you mean after you have flated the run down with polishing paper?
this is a tricky question to answer having not seen the run.
but here goes :d


The best thing to do with a run is flat it back and repaint the area, if it is not feasable to do this rub the run down (when dry) with fine wet and dry using plently of soap and water to prevent the paper clogging,

then polish back to a shine.


now comes the part that makes it tricky :D

if the paint you are using is cellulose or and acylic and you have heat to bake the paint with i.e. and spray bake oven or a heat lamp you can do it as soon as its cold (the paint not the wonderfull weather)

if you are air drying the paint I would say leave it for 2 weeks, this allows the paint to cure properly so will give a better result.

if it is 2 pack paint or 2k as its also known you need to let the paint dry (basicaly the same as you would with cellulose)
but here is the clever bit, before you rub the paint down with wet and dry you remover the top of the run with a cut down body file, (make one out of an old body file that you have broken by cuting an inch long section off and using a grinding wheel smouth the edges to a nice champher and rounding off the corners) then flat with wet and dry as you would with cellulose or acrylic.

this advice is ONLY for use with straight colours, if you have a run in metlatic/mica/pearl paint the only thing you can do if flat back and respray.


hope this helps
 
thanks to 7 years of training at Rolls Royce MPW, working on the Corniche. Phantom 6 and Bentley Continental. Then I changed direction and gave up paint :D decided I prefered to breathe in my old age :blues:

But I still have alot of the old paint faults and problems locked away in my head, so if anyone ever needs advice just ask and I'll try to give a good answer :D
 
The old adage told to me by my dad was the amount of preparation is proportional to the quality of the finish.

For a run, I would bite the bullet, let it dry and with a very fine grade wet and dry, rub the run out and just blow over.

I like celluose for its simplicity, hate the curing process. Annoyed one ex-girlfriend as I burnt out her salon hairdryer (curing paint on an old fiesta).

I would recommend a proper heatlamp. :)
 
Thank you for help - I'll let it dry properly for a few days and then "sand down".

Just practising on the old camper before I have a go at the proper vehicle. I realise now that I should do "finer coats" and allow to dry between layers!
 
Be carefull about laying on light coats, you still need them to gloss properly otherwise you'll get a build up of "Orange Peel" which is a lot harder to sort out than one or two runs :)

Richard
 
1970 2000 sc said:
thanks to 7 years of training at Rolls Royce MPW, working on the Corniche. Phantom 6 and Bentley Continental. Then I changed direction and gave up paint :D decided I prefered to breathe in my old age :blues:

But I still have alot of the old paint faults and problems locked away in my head, so if anyone ever needs advice just ask and I'll try to give a good answer :D
Click to expand...
hi i am about to order the paint for the bottom of my doors on my 2000tc 1969, now the pain code says zircon blue does any body know if i can get this in two pack and do they recomend it
 
a good paint suplier will mix you any colour in 2 pack paint, I would not recomend 2 pack paint for spraying at home, as you need a booth, air feed mask at least. If you want it sprayed in 2 pack most local garages/ paint refinishers can do the job, ask around in your area for a recomended one.
 
I have a Zircon blue P6 - it was professionally resprayed about 16 years ago in two pack - I believe the body shop mixed it or had it mixed. It was hard wearing and looked good.

I have just re-done some of the door panels myself in cellulose - As stated for DIY cellulose is the only option. Colour match between the two is not too bad, but I did have to have the paint "re-mixed" as the first attempt was not correct. Best to take a sample of the colour to the paint mixer - in my case I took a big chunk of the old door skin. Most large towns have a paint supplier - I am in Bristol and used a company called KGC Panels and components.

Most bodyshops like two pack as it gives a better finish straight from the gun and I think will cover minor flaws better than cellulose. In the past you did pay more for two pack in a bodyshop. However I am more than happy with cellulose finish and it looks fine next to the other panels done in two pack.

One thing to watch out for is that Rover re-used the Zircon blue name for a completley different colour in the mid 80's - make sure they know it is from an older car !!
 
cellulose will go over 2 pack quite happily, infact 2 pack wil go over celly as well, the problem arises when its not cellulose, ir acrylic, this was also called TPA or thermo plastic acrylic, as the name sugests it reflowed when been baked, this caused no end of problems with the finish cracking, running and just plain been nasty.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top