Having fitted new master cylinder,rear calipers and servo to my 66 2000, the car is now back on the road but for the brakes to be fairly instant I had to set the pedal a lot higher than the 6 1/2- 6 3/4 settings as in the workshop manual. When set so the pedal is at rest at these settings there is nearly 2 inches of travel required before anything happens,which personally I do not like. Is this normal?. The brakes are bled fine and work well. The design of the pedal Box seems to have no retun lock stop and just relies on the spring to return it. I am thinking of fitting a buffer so that I can adjust the brake pedal so at rest it is at a reasonable height but the brakes work almost straight away as soon as you depress the pedal. Comments? Suggestions please
Pedal slop
- Thread starter SirD66
- Start date
If you are saying that with the pedal height set correctly you have 2 inches of pedal travel before anything happens, was it like this before all the parts were changed? if not I would think it's caused by something that's been done incorrectly during replacement.The pedal height should be set as recommended, what you propose wont cure the fault which is the excess movement.Did you adjust up the rear calipers when you fitted them? There should not be the amount of free movement you appear to have.
keanej
New Member
When ever you do the brakes like this they always need bleeding at least twice, ideally with a week in between - the second time you bleed them you'll get the last bit of air out
If you pump the pedal does the pedal travel reduce ?
The brakes always have quite good feel - i.e. not sharp but gradual application, so I would expect some travel from start of braking effect to full braking next time I'm in the garage I'll try mine
The other thing is that new pads always take a while to bed in and therefore the brakes get a bit sharper after a day or two of use
If you pump the pedal does the pedal travel reduce ?
The brakes always have quite good feel - i.e. not sharp but gradual application, so I would expect some travel from start of braking effect to full braking next time I'm in the garage I'll try mine
The other thing is that new pads always take a while to bed in and therefore the brakes get a bit sharper after a day or two of use
How high does the pedal have to be set before the master cylinder piston is fully retracted ? Is the piston fully retracting ? If not the system won't work properly
I bought a clutch cylinder from one of the known suppliers and it came with a pushrod that was far too long .If I hadn't put my old pushrod into the new cylinder I imagine I'd have similar problems to Sir D66
I bought a clutch cylinder from one of the known suppliers and it came with a pushrod that was far too long .If I hadn't put my old pushrod into the new cylinder I imagine I'd have similar problems to Sir D66
keanej
New Member
Last weekend I replace all the flexible hoses and calipers on a saab 900, bled the brakes and a week later they are still rock hard so yes based on a one off sample once is enough !
However the ease with which brakes bleed depends on the layout of the pipe work, how much of the system has been replaced - if your starting with fully replace pipe work through out etc. then your lucky if once is enough. Other factors such as if your using pressure / vaccum assistance and the experience of the mechanic and his assistant can also impact success
So perhaps always having to bleed brakes twice is an over statement, but can be a common requirement for the home mechanic
However the ease with which brakes bleed depends on the layout of the pipe work, how much of the system has been replaced - if your starting with fully replace pipe work through out etc. then your lucky if once is enough. Other factors such as if your using pressure / vaccum assistance and the experience of the mechanic and his assistant can also impact success
So perhaps always having to bleed brakes twice is an over statement, but can be a common requirement for the home mechanic