Question about a BW35 throttle cable range of travel

O

ogasman

New Member
I have a 1800cc with a BW35 that was transplanted into another vehicle. I was told it was originally from a 1972 Morris Marina. It has an aftermarket intake manifold with a Weber carburetor. It has a hodge podge set of brackets, as the Weber has no provision for the transmission cable. I need a point of reference. I know there should be no slack in the cable at idle, but how much travel should the cable have from idle to full throttle? 25mm? 50mm? I can change where it is located on the throttle linkage to either increase or decrease the amount the cable is pulled.

Thanks
Paul
 
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I thought the 1800 was front wheel drive, and the Marina is rear, so how have you managed to do that? Any pics?
 
quattro said:
I thought the 1800 was front wheel drive, and the Marina is rear, so how have you managed to do that? Any pics?
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Sorry, guess I wasn't clear. It is an 1800cc motor and BW 35 from a Morris marina. I have seen them called Austin/Morris motors. I took Austin out of the original post.

Paul
 
quattro said:
I thought the 1800 was front wheel drive, and the Marina is rear, so how have you managed to do that? Any pics?
Click to expand...

I think he's just got the engine and 'box which came from the Marina originally and has been used in a kit car of some sort.

ogasman said:
I have an Austin 1800 with a BW35 that was transplanted into another vehicle. I was told it was originally from a 1972 Morris Marina. It has an aftermarket intake manifold with a Weber carburetor. It has a hodge podge set of brackets, as the Weber has no provision for the transmission cable. I need a point of reference. I know there should be no slack in the cable at idle, but how much travel should the cable have from idle to full throttle? 25mm? 50mm? I can change where it is located on the throttle linkage to either increase or decrease the amount the cable is pulled.

Thanks
Paul
Click to expand...

The kickdown cable travel is dictated by the gearbox internals, so try pulling the cable in and out to obtain its amount of travel not forgetting that there will be a spring loaded last little bit which will be the 'kickdown' bit. You will need to provide some means of anchoring the outer with some means of fine adjustment.

Colin
 
Start off by doing as the above post described.
You need to find three points,
1 rest.
Slowly pull the slack from the inner cable until you find a point of resistance.
This is your REST position to be set with engine idle speed set as low as possible.
2 Full throttle
Pull out the inner cable until you find the second point of resistance.
( This is your FULL THROTTLE position which will give you all forwards gears BEFORE KICKDOWN.)
3 Kick down
From the second point of resistance, pull on the inner cable some more and you should feel the "CLICK " of the cam within the valve body.
This is Kick down range.
So as soon as you pass point 2 it WILL drop down into the next available gear.
You don't need all the cable to be pulled out, you just need point 2, and then a few mm past that to drop a gear.

If you are still struggling, drop the pan and you can observe the cam travel as the cable is moved.
 
eightofthem said:
Start off by doing as the above post described.
You need to find three points,
1 rest.
Slowly pull the slack from the inner cable until you find a point of resistance.
This is your REST position to be set with engine idle speed set as low as possible.
2 Full throttle
Pull out the inner cable until you find the second point of resistance.
( This is your FULL THROTTLE position which will give you all forwards gears BEFORE KICKDOWN.)
3 Kick down
From the second point of resistance, pull on the inner cable some more and you should feel the "CLICK " of the cam within the valve body.
This is Kick down range.
So as soon as you pass point 2 it WILL drop down into the next available gear.
You don't need all the cable to be pulled out, you just need point 2, and then a few mm past that to drop a gear.

If you are still struggling, drop the pan and you can observe the cam travel as the cable is moved.
Click to expand...

Ahh, good a much better explanation by an expert, rather than my 'Janet and John' one. :oops::rolleyes:
 
ogasman said:
Thanks Guys!

This should get me into the ballpark. I had to order some linkage parts, when I get back to it I will see how it goes.

Paul
Click to expand...
Thanks to everyone that responded. The advice worked great!
The long version of the story. I bought a 1958 Nash Metropolitan for my wife. The Metro only ever came with a 1500 with a stick transmission. The previous owner had swapped in an 1800 with a BW 35 from a 1972 Morris Marina. He did not do such a great job. He used the 1800 like a long block and swapped all the parts from the 1500 onto it (like the intake and exhaust manifolds, carburetor, air cleaner, etc.). It was very under carbed, and shifted terribly. The transmission shifted harshly into each gear and would not kick down. I bought a Weber 32/36 carburetor and manifold conversion set up for a MGB from Pierce Manifolds. I had to do a little fab work on the linkage, but it works great now. The engine runs much better, with a lot more power. I made an adaptor plate on the linkage arm for the carburetor to run the transmission cable. I made it adjustable, and now the transmission shifts great as well. Smooth transitions into each gear, and will kick down now like it should.

Thanks a bunch
Paul
 
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