My 73 3500s (96000k) performed admirably for two 500k journeys (despite the "Armstrong Steering" which made it a handfull on some of NZ's winding roads) although it was a pleasure to drive elsewhere. Shortly afterwards it developed a leak inthe rear brakes. This is understandable as the vehicle had little use over the past ten years (although prevously owned by an an enthusiast). I consulted the reliable mechanic to whom I entrust my vehicles. His previous experience was changing the rear brake pads on a P6. Which, I understand is a 2000 which is run -ahem- on aviation gasoline. After examining the vehicle he concluded that the only way to do the job properly was to (a) disconnect the rear brake hose (b) drop the drive shaft and © jack the rear of the vehicle up leaving the suspension behind. He completed the job in approximately four hours and expressed the hope that he would not have to do it again. P.S. I obtained a re-conditioning kit from Scottsold autorubber. I received with the car a Rover Repair Operation Manual and a new set of rear brake pads which appear to originate from some obscure (and un-named) EU source. P.P.S. My mechanic describes my P6 as a "true classic".
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Re-conditioning leaking rear brakes - Did Rover want to make it difficult?
- Thread starter Classicus
- Start date
That sounds like the standard approach to me for the rear brakes.
When I bought mine, it was my first question "Have the rear brakes been done." Sure enough, nice shiny new discs and new pads.
Of course, it is to reduce unsprung weight. I understand that Alfasuds were exactly the same too.
My mechanic that does the tough stuff that involves either a hoist or hydralic ramp rates this job as bad as replacing engine mounts which is another complete b*tch of a job.
When I bought mine, it was my first question "Have the rear brakes been done." Sure enough, nice shiny new discs and new pads.
Of course, it is to reduce unsprung weight. I understand that Alfasuds were exactly the same too.
My mechanic that does the tough stuff that involves either a hoist or hydralic ramp rates this job as bad as replacing engine mounts which is another complete b*tch of a job.
Mike Griffiths
New Member
Classicus
I found the best way to remove the rear calipers is as follows.
Jack rear of car clear off the ground and support, and remove wheels. Bend back the tabs and remove the 4 bolts securing the drive shaft to the brake disc and diff flanges. You will note that the drive shaft will 'spring out' due to the tension from the de-deon tube. Whilst carrying out the above, be careful that the disc does not drop out. You can then slide the disc out, gaining clearer access to the caliper.
Depending on which side you are working on, you will need to remove either the handbrake mechanism or just the link by removing a pivot pin. The hydraulic connection(s) will then need disconnecting. You will note the the caliper 'swings' on a pivot. This pivot will need removing, by removing the end cap and internal spring, and then undoing the internal pin using an allen key. Once the pin is removed, the caliper can then be removed.
I found the tricky part is taking apart and rebuilding the caliper. I would advise that you take photos or make notes as you go along, or refer to a proper workshop manual. There is a special tool for rewinding the pad adjustment ratchet, but I don't know anyone who has one of these. I therefore used an adjustable spanner and working perpendicular to the adjuster, turned until the adjuster was wound fully in. This seemed to take ages!! Other than that, replacing the new components was simple.
After replacing the caliper, you will need to push the drive shaft back in so that you can thread the bolts back in through the disc and into the diff flange. I did this using a sash cramp. If you don't have access to a cramp, try using a tornique, or get someone to push the drive shaft back in whilst you are locating the bolts.
The taking out and putting back took me about 2 hours, however the renovation of the caliper took a lot longer.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Mike
I found the best way to remove the rear calipers is as follows.
Jack rear of car clear off the ground and support, and remove wheels. Bend back the tabs and remove the 4 bolts securing the drive shaft to the brake disc and diff flanges. You will note that the drive shaft will 'spring out' due to the tension from the de-deon tube. Whilst carrying out the above, be careful that the disc does not drop out. You can then slide the disc out, gaining clearer access to the caliper.
Depending on which side you are working on, you will need to remove either the handbrake mechanism or just the link by removing a pivot pin. The hydraulic connection(s) will then need disconnecting. You will note the the caliper 'swings' on a pivot. This pivot will need removing, by removing the end cap and internal spring, and then undoing the internal pin using an allen key. Once the pin is removed, the caliper can then be removed.
I found the tricky part is taking apart and rebuilding the caliper. I would advise that you take photos or make notes as you go along, or refer to a proper workshop manual. There is a special tool for rewinding the pad adjustment ratchet, but I don't know anyone who has one of these. I therefore used an adjustable spanner and working perpendicular to the adjuster, turned until the adjuster was wound fully in. This seemed to take ages!! Other than that, replacing the new components was simple.
After replacing the caliper, you will need to push the drive shaft back in so that you can thread the bolts back in through the disc and into the diff flange. I did this using a sash cramp. If you don't have access to a cramp, try using a tornique, or get someone to push the drive shaft back in whilst you are locating the bolts.
The taking out and putting back took me about 2 hours, however the renovation of the caliper took a lot longer.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Mike