Rear Caliper for S2 P6 V8

D

DaV-8

New Member
Hi All,

My rear brakes need changing on my P6 V8. I managed to source rear discs and pads and now I am on the look out for pair of rear calipers and a piston cup, I am not sure whether to get the reconditioned ones offered by MGBD or the overhauled ones with stainless steel bores. Does anyone have a spare pair they are willing to part with along with the hydraulic seals.

The reason I need to change the above is because the offside inner rear pad had come apart and the car has been braking on the piston causing a grinding noise each time I brake and as a result damaged the disc, piston and caliper as per my mechanic. Please see photo below.
d5070190.jpg
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I am new to the Rover world and recently acquired my first P6 and can't wait to start appreciating it. Furthermore I am not mechanically minded and I can't find anyone near me (Rainham, Essex) who is willing to overhaul the existing caliper.

Cheers
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

I'm afraid I can't help with replacement calipers but once the calipers are removed, providing you have a Rover workshop manual, they are quite simple, if a bit fiddly, to overhaul. My Dad did the ones on my car and he is more of a carpenter than a mechanic, admitedly he did fit one component round the wrong way which I sorted out and I had to re-build the other caliper that was supposed to be a re-conditioned one that we paid a lot of money for, I had to butcher the old knackered one and replaced its piston with the rusted solid 'new' one! If you are confident enough to have a go you may be surprised at how easy it is, the hardest bit I think is getting the calipers out due to the access :wink:
 
I agree with Mike. By far the hardest bit is getting the buggers off the car! Once they're on a bench, you're away. As long as you're methodical and have the exploded diagram to hand, it's pretty easy to strip and reassemble them. Just be careful about which way to put the seal on the [hydraulic] piston. The diagram and description is a bit misleading, and seems to suggest that the raised flanged side should face outwards - it should, it should face into the bore.

Michael
 
Thanks for the response guys. I will try and attempt to remove them with the help of a friend. I read that it is very hard to remove them lying on your back with the car on axle stands, and as a result was hesitant to start something that I cannot finish.
Cheers
Dave
 
People are often frightened off by these but once on the bench and stripped, you will have a much better understanding of how they actually work. The hardest bit will probably be the 4-off bolts holding the drive shaft and disc. A good long 9/16" a/f ring key is needed here. Once the lock tabs have been bent away you can get your foot against the spanner and use all of your weight to get them moving. Once free tie the shaft up out of the way. You will need an open ended 9/16" Whitworth spanner ( 26mm a/f, not a stock size) to remove the large end plug to get access to the Allen key hole to remove the swivel pin which holds the caliper in place. A tip for replacing the 4-off drive shaft bolts is to use two door hinge pins. These can be screwed into the hub and the shaft placed over them, run a nut down to pull the shaft into place. Fit 2-off proper bolts without the spacer or tab washer, remove temporary bolts and fit remaining bolts with tab and spacer. remove first two and swing tabs into place and fit final 2 bolts with their spacers.
 
Westpark said:
You will need an open ended 9/16" Whitworth spanner ( 26mm a/f, not a stock size) to remove the large end plug to get access to the Allen key hole to remove the swivel pin which holds the caliper in place.
Click to expand...

Later ones are 15/16", and are what the OP has.
 
Oops! Sorry, it has been about 3 months since I last did oneand as it was dark and I was too lazy to go out to the car and check. You are of course correct ,it is 5/8" a/f. The spanner that I use is a 9" long 9/16" x 5/8" a/f and I just got the wrong end. Sorry. I haven't had any response from DaV-8 as to whether he still wants the piston cup
 
Westpark said:
The spanner that I use is a 9" long 9/16" x 5/8" a/f and I just got the wrong end.
Click to expand...

Be very careful using a spanner to undo the driveshaft bolts. You are pretty much certain to end up pulling towards you on at least one side, and I worked with a bloke who did exactly that and for whatever reason the spanner slipped and he blinded himself in one eye. The leverage available on a socket wit a strongarm bar means you're not pulling as hard, so are less likely to injure yourself, as well as it making the job a whole lot easier. If you do persist with the spanner, always do it away from you.
 
Westpark said:
As I said Harvey you can get your feet against it and push away from you.
Click to expand...

You did say that, and you can, but doing that on the driver's side isn't easy as you have to be pushing from the rear of the car and there's not a lot there to hold on to and brace yourself.
 
These bolts don't generally sieze up as you probably know but sometimes they get overtightened and just need that extra bit of purchase. Any which way you can is often necessary and you just have to adapt to the circumstances or the situation, and the tools available to you at the time. When I replace bolts or nuts I always use "Rocol" ASP ( anti scuffing paste) 1st choice (That is what we always used on the gas turbines as it stood up to the heat better), or If that is not available I will use "Copperslip". The green locking fluid that "Rover" used was excellent as even 40 or 50 years on, the bolts are still clean when they come out and I'm sure that you have noticed that.
On occasion I have removed these bolts from the side of the car with long extensions on the ratchet once the wheel is removed. Each to his own.
p.s. get the wife to stand behind you for the o/s!
 
, I am not sure whether to get the reconditioned ones offered by MGBD or the overhauled ones with stainless steel bores
Click to expand...

I've been informed by Mark that his calipers are done with ss bores.

Rich.
 
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