Rear hub nut torque setting

S

smudger

Member
Does anyone know a correct torque setting for the rear hub/driveshaft nut? The workshop manuals seem to have a heath robinson affair of testing a screwed up hub nut with a spring balance pulling on the hub and reading off the required weight in pounds on the balance needed to turn the hub.
Did Rover ever issue a torque setting, maybe at a later date? I have heard a figure of 80lb/ft mentioned by one experienced P6 restorer which I have no reason to doubt but just wonder if anyone else has ever had any experience of this issue?
 
There isn't a torque setting, it just has to be tightened enough to get the correct reading on the spring balance once the collapsable spacer starts collapsing. If you're just removing/refitting the driveshaft then you can mark the nut to the shaft, and the shaft to the hub to get it all back in the same place again. It is a pretty Heath Robinson way of setting it TBH, and so you're unlikely to have problems even if you are a bit out.
 
Yes will only be a driveshaft removal/replacement so marking up and replacing to the same point will be good enough then.
 
Hi, if that's the case then there is no need to disturb it. Undo the 6 small nuts and bolts
holding the hub to the elbow and the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the diff and
withdraw it through the hole in the elbow.

Colin
 
I'll be replacing the U/J's so will need to split the driveshaft and hub. Much easier to leave the hub attached to the elbow and remove the driveshaft alone.
 
Hi, I agree it is a bit unwieldy getting it into a vice or a press, easier with a second pair of hands.
but I wouldn't personally separate.

Colin
 
I have done uni joints on 2 cars, and found that marking, then doing it back up to where it was worked fine. I think you would have a hard time changing the uni joint with the half shaft in the hub.

James.
 
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