rear noises

R

roverrocket

Member
My 2000TC has developed a clonk a creaking and a clang from I think the n/s rear but only when pulling off, sometimes when braking, and most notably when turning. I'm guessing it's a UJ or two but what's the best process of identifying the culprit? If it isn't a UJ I guess it's a diff and I've read a few posts on here but I'm wondering why it isn't there after I've pulled off - even after an aggressive gear change it's quiet and fine. Thanks in advance :)
 
Hi, check the diff carrier bolted to the back of it, especially the end where it bolts
up to the car on the N/S.

Colin
 
Sounds like broken diff hanger and/or bush. Remove the finishing panel between boot and petrol tank. There are two access panels in the base unit one on each side, remove screws to access the bushes.
 
Thanks for that folks. The carrier at the diff appears fine - bolts intact and tight. Only had chance to have a quick look for the access panels you mention Pat but they weren't immediately obvious. The boot lining extends to this area but is glued down so I'll take that up and report back with the condition of the bush(es). The clang has worsened now and there's minimal play in the drive shaft UJs so I'm hoping it is the hanger as otherwise it's a bit of a headscratcher. Thanks for your help
 
Hi, all you can do now is wait until it goes quiet, then look and see what has fallen off :wink:

Colin
 
The symptoms don't really match, but check the condition of the DeDion elbow where it links to the bottom arm. Failure due to corrosion is so unpleasant that it's worth getting paranoid about and checking on a regular basis - most especially when unidentified noises are heard.
 
The symptoms have now got worse and there's a near-constant creak with a clonk when pulling off. There is also now what sounds like an intermittent rubbing when braking. The rear pads have meat on them and are not binding. Could wheel bearings give off noises like these? I tried jacking her up to check for play but the o/s rear jacking point has been welded and the jack tube doesn't go in! I put her on ramps and everything looks fine and hanger bolts are tight. no rotation in driveshaft UJs, some rotation in the diff but that was present and no worse before the noise started.
I'm about to take her off the road which is a pain as she's my daily hack :( Thanks for all the advice
 
Have you checked the rear suspension arms, and the elbows and hubs - Mr Eckerslike makes a very valid point... although the symptoms dont match exactly it's always hard to tell from noises at the back like this.
 
arms elbows and hubs seem OK. With the n/s wheel jacked up I can hear the noise if I rotate the wheel. It sounds like it's coming from the diff but there are no such noises if just the o/s wheel is rotated. I guess this eliminates the diff as the culprit thankfully. The UJs are free of play and the wheel bearings are fine. I'm now starting to suspect the n/s disc or something brake related on this side
 
Good to hear you're narrowing it down and that it's unlikely to be anything too dramatic.
Does the wheel rotate completely smoothly or is there a hint of notchiness or apparent drag over sections of the rotation? I wouldn't give the UJs a clean bill of health just yet. Are there any telltale traces of rust on any of them? Can you detect any play if the handbrake's on and you lever the UJs with a hefty screwdriver or bar?
Are the locking tabs present and correct on the 4 bolts from the driveshaft through the brake disc?
 
Sounds like a wheel bearing. Do you have a mechanic's stethoscope, or a large screw driver. I would jack up and with the wheel off, put the screwdriver or stethoscope up to the hub, have an assistant turn the wheel, and listen to hear if the noise is coming from the bearing. With a screwdriver you put your ear onto the handle. Mechanic's stethoscopes are better, as you do not have to have your head under a jacked up car. You can always compare sides to help confirm your diagnosis. Best to do this turning the axle by hand, not using the motor to drive it, the motor will add lots of extraneous noise to hinder the diagnosis.

To check uni-joints I would lift up and down on the joint and see if there is play there. Sometimes you will hear a metal on metal click. Bad uni-joints come and go a bit with the noise they make, while driving in my experience, and make noise under braking, and under acceleration.

Sounds more like a wheel bearing to me. If you replace the wheel bearing, make sure you change the collapsible spacer as well. I think they are a little tricky to do, I would seek advice from someone who has done them first on here.

James.
 
Whatever it is, you're going to have to detach the inner end of the driveshaft, so you may as well do that now. You'll then be able to feel if one of the UJs (still my guess) or hub bearings have gone. But beforehand, decide whether to loosen the centre nut on the outer end which is much easier with the handbrake holding the shaft still. If you do, then mark the nut and count the number of turns so that you don't have to replace the collapsible spacer if the bearings turn out to be OK.

When a rear bearing went on mine, it resulted in a high pitched squeal rather than a clonk.
 
Hi thank you for all the replies.

I sincerely hope it is something as straightforward as a stone Testrider! As the o/s doesn't seem to be binding I had ruled out the brakes as a culprit. Certainly there are no scores on the disc.

i'll try and locate the noise with a screwdriver and get the car over a pit for a proper examination
 
Just to let you all know that all noises have stopped completely! Testrider you appear to have been correct! or let's hope so. Thank you all for the input :)
 
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