happy days
Active Member
Will have to change the rear pads soon on 3500s 1974. If I do it myself will have to do it with wheel ramps and jacks. Is this a straightforward job. Any special tools needed? Or would it be better taking it to a garage.
Rear pads to change
- Thread starter happy days
- Start date
I'd be wary of trusting a garage to do it, chances are they will have less experience than you do. No special tools needed, but plenty of things to catch ot the unwary. I'd trawl back through previous postings on here to give you an idea of what you're in for, as there must be hundreds of them, then you can ask specific questions as you need to. There are various ways of doing them, but the set-up once the pads are fitted is the most critical part.
Hello Mick,
Only use a garage if another forum member comes forward and recommends a particular business with whom they have had success. Other than that, provided you have a good set of sockets, spanners, screwdriver, split pins, pliers and torque wrench, you should be set to give it a go. They can be a real pain so be prepared to spend many many hours on them, especially when you are doing them for the first time. The proper Girling tool to wind in the piston cups is pretty useless, but at least it works better than trying to poke them around with a screwdriver or similar. I always support the car using car stands, but you might like to use blocks of wood or similar if you prefer not to trust the jack points. Removing the rear wheels gives a little more light and allows the half shafts to be disconnected and the discs withdrawn. As you have a gnome or two, you might like to cover their ears so as not to teach them a whole string of new words while you are doing them.
Ron.
Only use a garage if another forum member comes forward and recommends a particular business with whom they have had success. Other than that, provided you have a good set of sockets, spanners, screwdriver, split pins, pliers and torque wrench, you should be set to give it a go. They can be a real pain so be prepared to spend many many hours on them, especially when you are doing them for the first time. The proper Girling tool to wind in the piston cups is pretty useless, but at least it works better than trying to poke them around with a screwdriver or similar. I always support the car using car stands, but you might like to use blocks of wood or similar if you prefer not to trust the jack points. Removing the rear wheels gives a little more light and allows the half shafts to be disconnected and the discs withdrawn. As you have a gnome or two, you might like to cover their ears so as not to teach them a whole string of new words while you are doing them.
Ron.
webmaster
New Member
I never found them much of a problem on the 2.2TC, get the car high enough and there's loads of room under there.
When I got my first P6, it failed the MOT on rear brakes, when I got under there it turned out somebody had fitted the pads back to front, i.e. backing plate to disc, metal to metal, I turned them round and they were fine. Dread to think if a garage had done the previous change.
When I got my first P6, it failed the MOT on rear brakes, when I got under there it turned out somebody had fitted the pads back to front, i.e. backing plate to disc, metal to metal, I turned them round and they were fine. Dread to think if a garage had done the previous change.
testrider
Active Member
Go for it yourself Mick, they're not that bad really. As drastic as it sounds, disconnecting the driveshafts and removing the discs isn't hard and it gives you a lot more room to get at the calipers.
Get your axle stands under the crossmember that supports the trailing arms then you can undo the four bolts that hold each driveshaft to the diff and move the shafts out of the way.
If you do it this weekend it will save you from getting any of that nasty Sun on you! 8)
Get your axle stands under the crossmember that supports the trailing arms then you can undo the four bolts that hold each driveshaft to the diff and move the shafts out of the way.
If you do it this weekend it will save you from getting any of that nasty Sun on you! 8)
testrider said:
I always remove the shafts and discs, but don't be tempted to lay the shafts on the de dion to get them out of the way, just let them hang down, otherwise you'll accidently nudge the wheel, and they will fall down, normally coming to a sudden stop as they hit you on the head, break your nose, or smash out all your teeth. Not got caught myself, (before you ask), but have seen it happen to others. [snigger!]
happy days
Active Member
Oh dear looks like I might need my crash helmet then Harvey. As for the sun not a chance I will be under the car while that's out, we only get it for a week at most in Manchester so have to make the most of it. Cheers guys will have a look in the next few days.
happy days said:
I am certain that I changed the pads on my old 2000TC without removing discs, drive shafts or anything else for that matter.
I remember that my arms ached a lot afterwards from holding them up for a long time, and my neck hurt like hell the following day from holding my head off the floor so that I could see what I was doing.
This was a long time ago and I very much doubt that I could do it now though
Richard
DaveHerns wrote,...
The flexible brake hose prevents dropping it too far at all, unless Mick wants to disconnect that and then have to bleed the brakes as well.
Ron.
The flexible brake hose prevents dropping it too far at all, unless Mick wants to disconnect that and then have to bleed the brakes as well.
Ron.
DaveHerns wrote,...
The flexible hose with the spring around it runs from the fixed line on the body screwing into the R/H caliper. Unless removed it will allow only a small downward movement of the differential, apart from which the hose could well be damaged if left attached.
Ron.
The flexible hose with the spring around it runs from the fixed line on the body screwing into the R/H caliper. Unless removed it will allow only a small downward movement of the differential, apart from which the hose could well be damaged if left attached.
Ron.
DaveHerns wrote,...
There is a slotted bracket that supports the base of the threaded section of the flexible line. The problem with what you suggest is that in order to slide the hose out from the bracket, you will need to bend the steel line given the distance between the bracket and the steel line attachment is just the threaded section of the flexible hose.
Maybe you can twist the bracket out of the way or bend the line or strain the joint between the two, doesn't sound at all like a good way to do things to me.
Ron.
There is a slotted bracket that supports the base of the threaded section of the flexible line. The problem with what you suggest is that in order to slide the hose out from the bracket, you will need to bend the steel line given the distance between the bracket and the steel line attachment is just the threaded section of the flexible hose.
Maybe you can twist the bracket out of the way or bend the line or strain the joint between the two, doesn't sound at all like a good way to do things to me.
Ron.