I've just got out from underneath the P6, and the De-dion tube is as rusty as hell on the outside, the Gaiter's shot, the jublilee clip around the gaiter's shot too, and there's oil dripping from it. I've also got to service the back brakes at some point. My view is to drop the whole lot out of the car, suspension arms, de-dion tube, final drive, service the de-dion tube, paint it, redo all the suspension bushes, do the rear brakes off the car and reassemble everything after painting. Is this a big job? Any issues with wheel alignment? Ideally, I don't want to have to go under there again for major work for a very long time, so I'll probably be checking all the UJs as well..... My Haynes Manual is pretty rubbish when it comes to the de-dion tube. How easy is it to remove? :?:
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Removing final drive & De-dion tube
- Thread starter V8P6B
- Start date
You can drop it all out in one lump, but personally I'd drop the diff out first, then the suspension and de dion complete. It's a bit unwieldy doing it altogether.
I'd polybush it while it was out . You cant clip the gaitor to the de dion outer tube until the cars been driven round the block. It needs to settle into the correct position. If you haven't already got one get a factory workshop manual as well as the Haynes book of lies.
Can't see any problems with wheel alignment.
I'd polybush it while it was out . You cant clip the gaitor to the de dion outer tube until the cars been driven round the block. It needs to settle into the correct position. If you haven't already got one get a factory workshop manual as well as the Haynes book of lies.
Can't see any problems with wheel alignment.
Good plan to drop the diff out as it lets you sort out the large bobbin bushes into the base unit. These are a critical component for a smooth transmission and are fairly vulnerable. So also are the diff bolts which have a habit of coming loose. Either or both of these will generate a "clonk" when taking up drive. A worthwhile mod whilst it's all out is to box in the rear of the pressed steel rear diff mounting. This means you also need to replicate the panhard rod mount onto your new diff mount. So use TWO - one going each way, the one to the off side to a new hole drilled in the rear wall of the boot in an equivalent position to that on the nearside. At the diff mount attach one panhard rod to the top of the diff mount and one to the bottom. This arrangement will eliminate twist in the diff and therefore eliminate damaged mounting bushes / loose bolts. The boxed in rear mount improves rigidity for cornering loads and will assist in a more precise location of the rear wheels. (Cornering loads on the P6 are not taken through the suspension, instead they go up the drive shafts into the diff and from there into the base unit)
For the same reason the drive shaft UJ's are masively overspecced relative to the car's power. But they may very well be dry / tight / k*****ed without you noticing. For my money they are wear parts just like a brake pad and an automatic change when you're doing this level of work.
If you get really keen it is possible to swap the somewhat peculiar rear calipers for either Sierra Cosworth or Audi, complete with vented discs (a good idea in such a poorly ventilated area). Cures leakage and adjustment problems for good!
Chris
For the same reason the drive shaft UJ's are masively overspecced relative to the car's power. But they may very well be dry / tight / k*****ed without you noticing. For my money they are wear parts just like a brake pad and an automatic change when you're doing this level of work.
If you get really keen it is possible to swap the somewhat peculiar rear calipers for either Sierra Cosworth or Audi, complete with vented discs (a good idea in such a poorly ventilated area). Cures leakage and adjustment problems for good!
Chris
chrisyork said:A worthwhile mod whilst it's all out is to box in the rear of the pressed steel rear diff mounting. This means you also need to replicate the panhard rod mount onto your new diff mount. So use TWO - one going each way, the one to the off side to a new hole drilled in the rear wall of the boot in an equivalent position to that on the nearside. At the diff mount attach one panhard rod to the top of the diff mount and one to the bottom. This arrangement will eliminate twist in the diff and therefore eliminate damaged mounting bushes / loose bolts. The boxed in rear mount improves rigidity for cornering loads and will assist in a more precise location of the rear wheels. (Cornering loads on the P6 are not taken through the suspension, instead they go up the drive shafts into the diff and from there into the base unit)
For the same reason the drive shaft UJ's are masively overspecced relative to the car's power. But they may very well be dry / tight / k*****ed without you noticing. For my money they are wear parts just like a brake pad and an automatic change when you're doing this level of work.
If you get really keen it is possible to swap the somewhat peculiar rear calipers for either Sierra Cosworth or Audi, complete with vented discs (a good idea in such a poorly ventilated area). Cures leakage and adjustment problems for good!
Chris
These 2 mods sound interesting.. Has anyone done this? I'm assuming the discs will need mounting holes drilling, and the caliper mountings will need fabricating.. How does the handbrake arrangement work?, Anyone got any pics of these mods?
harveyp6 said:If you haven't already got one get a factory workshop manual as well as the Haynes book of lies.
Harvey, do you mean one of These?
V8P6B said:harveyp6 said:If you haven't already got one get a factory workshop manual as well as the Haynes book of lies.
Harvey, do you mean one of These?
Yep, that's the one, and another very useful one is a parts book, it's full of exploded diagrams showing each individual part and the sequence they fit together.
Sorry that's a bit of a slow response, the mods are produced by Alan Ramsbottom at Leighton Buzzard, 01525 382968. He specialises in improving the P6 and does vented front discs, aluminium rads etc etc. He got into this by doing the race prep on the white V8 that does the classic touring car series.
Chris
Chris