Removing Starter motor 2000TC UPDATED!

Retroreject

Retroreject

New Member
Hi guys,

Been having a problem with my starter motor, in so much as it normally spins a few times before finally engaging and working correctly. Ive been told this is nothing to worry about other than taking it apart to clean up and de-gunk. Faced with this i set about removing the other day. Dis-connected all electrics, and got the bottom bolt un-done. However when it came to do the top one, despite being under the car on a ramp could not get anywhere near it, nor be able to see to get a good purchase. Am i being daft or do you access it from the top, therefore presumably removing a load of stuff..surely this shouldn't be this much of an arse to do!.
 
Re: Removing Starter motor 2000TC

It is fiddly, isn't it! I use a socket and several extensions threaded through the engine mount, then add the ratchet drive from below once it's in place. Also needs a combination spanner from the top, squeezed down through the gap between the heater hoses and the accelerator linkage. If you have small hands on the ends of long arms you won't lose as much skin as me.
 
Re: Removing Starter motor 2000TC

Yep, the are no shortcuts, you have to remove the top bolt from the top. I am using a spanner at front preventing the nut from spinning and resting against the base unit and another spanner at the back undoing the bolt. You can only slip one arm in there.
I have to do it myself, probably tomorrow, because the bendix drive in my starter has had enough...
 
Re: Removing Starter motor 2000TC

Cheers guys!. Will have another attempt before winter sets in and it gets worse!. :|
 
Re: Removing Starter motor 2000TC

It has been a long time since I did this but I remember using a few extension bars on my ratchet and small locking pliers to hold the nut.

Colin
 
Re: Removing Starter motor 2000TC

I changed our 2200's starter in the street once a few years back & remember thinking that it was easier than I expected. Can't recall how long it actually took me though I don't think it was that long. Come to think of it I changed Bruisers last year too & again don't recall any particular problems.
Have another go, a jobs always surprisingly easier on the second attempt. :)
 
Re: Removing Starter motor 2000TC

Was your 2200 an SC or TC? The carbs and downpipes of the latter restrict access a lot. I suspect that the accelerator linkage of the 2000TC makes it harder too.
 
Just an update guys. Have of today, successfully removed my starter from my TC. Was an absolute pig of a job, and hopefully one i wont be re-attempting any time soon. The issue was the top nut and bolt. I have fortunately had the help of a mate who works for a independant landrover repairers, so had access to the ramp today. Even so, i needed someone underneath to undo the nut as i had my arm wedged in between hoses and bloody sharp accelerator linkages while i held the bolt with a spanner!. Even under the car it's impossible to see the top nut, so i had to do some shouty up - down- left - right guidance, and helped get the socket onto the top nut by helping it on with one of my spare fingers!.

What was apparent straight away was there was no way to get a socket square onto the top nut as the starter casing fouls on the socket, so although we got a turn on it, it was never sat on the nut properly. Once id got this off we removed starter and cleaned it up, as it was rather manky and had been the cause of my problems - spinning but not engaging. This had began to get so frequent that most mornings would take 10-13 attempts to get it to engage. This obviously isnt going to do the battery any favours, or the starter in the long run, not to mention being embarrassing when trying to leave the petrol station with a que of cars behind waiting.

In order to make things easy on replacement, we got the cleaned up starter on a lathe and with a grinder, cut a corner out where it had been impossible to fit the socket on square. Replaced unit placing bottom bolt in first, lined it all up and put bolt through top. Went straight into where it was meant, and with my mate under the car, passed nut up on the end of a socket and replaced without too much grief.

Reconnected battery, turned key and fired up first time. :D All in all im quite chuffed really. Almost gave up a one point. Ive oil in my hair, cuts and burns to my arms but satisfied that it didnt get the better of me. Dinner and a cuppa infront of the tele await! 8)
 
Retroreject said:
Ive oil in my hair, cuts and burns to my arms but satisfied that it didnt get the better of me.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the world of Rover P6s 8)

Although I have looked under the bonnet of my Audi :shock:

I am sure there is an engine in there somewhere 8)

Richard
 
Looks like i spoke to soon. Went out to car after work, turned key and it started. Stalled it due to not having choke fully out, then wouldn't re-start. Same spinning from starter. Im beginning to think the cold is having an effect?. Got a new battery on there. Maybe its just knackered?.
 
It's an inertia starter, so it means that the gear is sticking on its helical sleeve and doesn't get thrown back to mesh with the ring gear.
This usually happens because the assembly is just dirty, or too worn and hammered from the engine as it starts.
Are you sure that you cleaned the bendix drive assembly in detail when you removed the starter? It should not be lubricated, at least with oil or grease (the factory manual specifies graphite grease though) becase as it mixes with dust from the clutch plate it forms a sticky stuff with the results you experience now.
You definately have to remove it again for inspection. Now that you have created some more clearance for the socket it's going to be easier. I had to do it also into the older one of my inertia starters dated since 1967. The later one, dated since 1969 seems to be already relieved at the crucial point by the factory.
New Bendix drive assemblys are still available. I just bought one last week for my spare inertia starter.
It's not difficult, but you have to be patient.

Demetris
 
It's not an intertia unit, its a pre-engaged with solenoid on top. Ordered one at work ( i work for a motorists discount centre ), it turned up but was the wrong unit. Despite listing only two choices on year, innertia or other, ordered correct unit and when it turned up it was all back to front with the teeth much smaller than on mine. Bit pissed of tbh as i'd stripped the unit down again. All i could do was clean up and replace the old unit once again :(

30-11-10-10-56.jpg

Old unit on left!
 
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