Replacing clutch slave cylinder

C

chaddy lad

New Member
Dear all

After frequent problems with gear selection due to leaky slave cylinder I've bought a replacement and intend to fit this in the near future. Do you know of any problems / pitfalls which might befall me in attempting this? is there a seqeunce to completing this job, your thoughts / help would be very welcome.

chaddy Lad
 
You don't say if its a 4 cyl or V8, I have only done the 4 cyl but assume V8 is similar.

Very straight forward, simply disconnect the fluid hose (clamp it first, or catch fluid in a jamjar), unbolt the old one, the push rod should pull out of the slave cylinder.

Re-fitting is the reverse of removal as they say...

I would use fresh fluid, and bleed until clear.

Max 1 hour job I'm sure.

Richard
 
Dear Richard

Replaced slave cylinder over the weekend as you said fairly straight forward except for the fixing bolts reluctance to move. Thanks for the tips!

Regards Chaddy
 
I 've been told that the 2200 uses an 1 inch bore clutch slave cylinder, while the 2000 is 7/8.

Thus, exchanging the 2000 slave cylinder with a 2200 one gives a much lighter clutch pedal.

Does anyone know if this is true?
 
I think that there is plently of pedal travel to compensate for this. They told me that it works without any other modifications.
 
i gave up trying to bleed my clutch ages ago . i fitted the slave but i just could not bleed it even with an easi bleed kit . im not sure if the push rod should have a spring or do i simply slot it into the slave ?. can anyone tell me what to do in few easy steps (idiot guide) .

cheers
peter
 
It can be really hard, plus are you sure the problem isn't related to the master ? I had similar problems and in the end replaced the whole system with a known good one, without seperating the master / slave don't think it even needed bleeding !

Push rod goes through the rubber boot and into the slave, no spring, whilst you've got the bleed nipple open and with the easibleed on, you need to push the rod back into the slave as far as you can, this will clear any trapped air in the slave, then close the nipple and it should push the rod back out with the pressure of the easibleed.
 
Now you gave me an idea.

Why not remove the slave cylinder, but keep the hydaulics connected, and hold it in the air with the bleed nipple pointing upwards, slack, while a helper operated the pedal. Whatever air is in the system it move upwards and eject, like the thing you do to get the air out of the syringe, when the air is out tighen the bleed nipple and refit the slave cylinder.

How's that?
 
Certainly worth a try !!, I have also used a vacuum bleeder in the past, made from a jam jar and a vacuum cleaner, connect to the bleed nipple and sucks the fluid through, sometimes works !
 
I have found that lifting the slave upwards as was suggested, and pushing the rod full in while bleeding it is the ticket. Nothing else seems to get that hidden air pocket.

Dick West
 
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