ghce
Well-Known Member
Finally got around to my Engine Mount Project Interuptus.
After my Christmas 2 month trip away I returned to a P6B whose engine mounts had both failed just sitting in the garage.
Duly ordered some replacements from Mark Gray which arrived in very short order but only 2 days before my next 6 week sojourn to places east.
Arriving home this Monday I was forced to delay their installation while I caught up on urgent work...... so finally Saturday arrived
and having watched Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels last night and during the week had listened to the complete works of Ian Dury I felt ready to do battle with my trusty British Steel, sufficiently pumped for a full on encounter.
Expecting a sedate 1.5 to 2 hour job I was saddened to see it took me 6, time being consumed in the belief that I could just simply unbolt the rubber mounts top and bottom jack the engine up and remove and replace, sadly this is not the case and and considerable time was invested proving that point.
The complete engine mount bracket requires removal, a somewhat painful task with the top and bottom bolts being occluded by engine parts, exhaust manifold at top for the 1/2 inch flats and the bottom 5/8 flats by the chassis section of the engine mount bracket.
Bolt removal was a 1/16 of a turn using a selection of ring (top 1/2 bolt) and open ( bottom 5/8 bolt) enders.
Once removed and the engine jacked up under the sump * it was still a little tricky to maneuver the mounts and brackets out.
The replacement rubber mounts are different than the originals using M10 Threaded studs as opposed to the UNF that the OEM part used so a trip to the local hardware was required for a hardened M10 nuts and spring washers (4 of each).
Getting the newly assembled brackets back on the engine was a lot worse than removal as 1: the rubber is new and attached to both faces of the metal on the Bush and 2: the threaded studs are square ended and a fraction longer as opposed to the OEM pointed end studs.
* A requirement when jacking the sump to lift the engine is to
1: disconnect the throttle linkage from the firewall link
2: remove the radiator retaining bolts so that as the fan rises the radiator and shroud will move upward too.
Access to the off side top mount bracket bolt can be improved by loosening the alternator and swinging it up a little allowing you to get access to the underneath of the exhaust manifold to reinsert the bolt on reassembly.
** Top bracket bolts are most easily done from above but of course there is that slow 1/16 of a turn at a time to contend with which would likely still apply if you could manage to do it from below.
Graeme
After my Christmas 2 month trip away I returned to a P6B whose engine mounts had both failed just sitting in the garage.
Duly ordered some replacements from Mark Gray which arrived in very short order but only 2 days before my next 6 week sojourn to places east.
Arriving home this Monday I was forced to delay their installation while I caught up on urgent work...... so finally Saturday arrived
and having watched Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels last night and during the week had listened to the complete works of Ian Dury I felt ready to do battle with my trusty British Steel, sufficiently pumped for a full on encounter.Expecting a sedate 1.5 to 2 hour job I was saddened to see it took me 6, time being consumed in the belief that I could just simply unbolt the rubber mounts top and bottom jack the engine up and remove and replace, sadly this is not the case and and considerable time was invested proving that point.
The complete engine mount bracket requires removal, a somewhat painful task with the top and bottom bolts being occluded by engine parts, exhaust manifold at top for the 1/2 inch flats and the bottom 5/8 flats by the chassis section of the engine mount bracket.
Bolt removal was a 1/16 of a turn using a selection of ring (top 1/2 bolt) and open ( bottom 5/8 bolt) enders.
Once removed and the engine jacked up under the sump * it was still a little tricky to maneuver the mounts and brackets out.
The replacement rubber mounts are different than the originals using M10 Threaded studs as opposed to the UNF that the OEM part used so a trip to the local hardware was required for a hardened M10 nuts and spring washers (4 of each).
Getting the newly assembled brackets back on the engine was a lot worse than removal as 1: the rubber is new and attached to both faces of the metal on the Bush and 2: the threaded studs are square ended and a fraction longer as opposed to the OEM pointed end studs.
* A requirement when jacking the sump to lift the engine is to
1: disconnect the throttle linkage from the firewall link
2: remove the radiator retaining bolts so that as the fan rises the radiator and shroud will move upward too.
Access to the off side top mount bracket bolt can be improved by loosening the alternator and swinging it up a little allowing you to get access to the underneath of the exhaust manifold to reinsert the bolt on reassembly.
** Top bracket bolts are most easily done from above but of course there is that slow 1/16 of a turn at a time to contend with which would likely still apply if you could manage to do it from below.
Graeme
