Rover P6 2000 TC confused by royal_numis

royal_numis

royal_numis

New Member
As I wrote:
"I recently bought my first car in UK- white Rover P6 2000TC 1972, bodywork is poor at the moment (rust holes on wings, need to replace doors on left side, also inner wings and sills are begging for welding , but she is running very well. I definitely overpaid for this car in actual condition, but I really hope to do light restoration in this winter. My budget is small and I have not any experience with car like Rover (Not popular in my country- Latvia), so I hope for Your help with advice and maybe some spares as well."
"Perhaps, I will try to sell my Rover to get another P6 before to start restoration, I know, I will loose some money, but maybe in final I will got my dream P6."
So- Part one- Body panels:
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Next part: inner wings, hidden rust holes under seals. Really need some advice what to do in actual situation and maybe its not so bad..
 
Woops...

The problems you can see are normally only indicative of what may lie beneath. The D-Posts and inner sills are the biggest area of concern and likely to cost the most to sort out. I've seen worse and it's possible to do it all, but what kind of budget are you working to?
 
adamhotrod said:
Woops...

The problems you can see are normally only indicative of what may lie beneath. The D-Posts and inner sills are the biggest area of concern and likely to cost the most to sort out. I've seen worse and it's possible to do it all, but what kind of budget are you working to?
Click to expand...

Not sure about budget jet, dont want to put lot of money, because looks it would be better to clean everything and try to put in market again- I can do some simple welding by myself (inner wings, sills), but I dont have enough experience to do body panels welding on top faces, just need some time to figure out how bad is situation.
 
the problems you've highlighted thus far are very easy indeed. A weekend will see all that sorted! Everything you've shown is bolt on and of no significance to the condition of the car. Just buy some replacement panels (cheap and readily available) and get to with the spanner!

The next set of photo's are the ones that matter! Take off the aluminium foot steps as you get into the car. These cover the top of the sills. Peel back the carpet so that we can see the top of the sill and the joint between sill and floor, both sides, front and back.

Next take off the sill cover outside below the doors. This just screws on. With this off we can see what state the front face of the sill is in.

Now lift out the covers from the boot floor and from the sides of the boot.

We'll need a picture of the "D" post each side - that's the dome shape covering the front of the rear wheel that you can see when the back doors are open.

See if you can get photo's looking back at the front bulkhead from under the front wings.

Take a photo of the edge of the inner wing where it meets the outer wing from under the bonnet both sides.

If all these are good you are on an easy winner!

If not we may want to see a few more areas.

Best of Luck

Chris
 
Could be worse, get the sills off and get prodding about. If it's still road legal then just drive her about for a few months and enjoy. :)

If you're willing to get your hands dirty and don't mind taking time to do the work then the budget does not have to be that big. The real killer is if the floors / boot have gone. From my limited experiance of these cars the inner sills arond the areas you've already shown are the first to go, so may not be as bad as you think. But if the floor is gone, the rest is probably rusted too.

With old classic, what ever make it is, it is a lottery if you'll get a sound one or not. My car's engine blew up a few months after I brought her, just one of them things with an old car. They rust and they go bang. All you can do is fix it as you go, which is, for me, a lot of the fun! :)

Where abouts do you live? Maybe a local member can pop round to have a look.

It's true what you say about looking better in the pictures, mine looks far better than it is in a picture. :) But being thread bare and tatty is part of her charm.

P.s. You named her yet?
 
Just buy some replacement panels (cheap and readily available) and get to with the spanner!
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how true that is Chris, all depends on your idea of "Cheap", if you've only paid say £500 for the car, you can easily pay that again for panels, maybe even double that if you want really good ones, and you've got the problem of painting them (unless you can find some the right colour). For a beginner I wouldn't say it was easy to replace all the panels and get them lined up properly, heck some of the "pros" can't manage that !

As Chris says though, the most important aspects are all under the skin, if the base unit is sound (or an easy fix) then the exterior panels are purely cosmetic and could be sorted cheaply with fiberglass and filler if funds are tight.

I would also add the Chris' advise, remove at least one of the rear wings, probably the drivers as the rot on that side appears to be generally worse, you can get a lot of rot on the rear inner arches and it will also help you to investigate the state of the D posts mentioned previously.

Thanks to Quattro for this pic..
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thank You friends for support and advice, tomorrow I will remove the rear wings and sills off and I will post more pictures.

We usually dont use names for cars in Latvia and actually we never say "she" when we are speaking about car, but I will definitely find some beautiful and neutral name- maybe "white-wild-rose" :)

I have old MB w123 2.8 1982 with full extras (electric sunroof, electric windows, automatic gearbox, etc) in Latvia, the main problem was rust as well, but she is 10 years younger like "whitewildrose", rust was only on door bottom corners, rear side of sills and on boot floor.
Perhaps, I will use fibreglass as temporary fixing method- car colour is davos white, so perhaps first big purchase will be passenger side doors (need to replace, because this side looks damaged -maybe some car accident, I dont know).
 
Part 2: Rear inner wing- driver side +boot
I removed booth rear wings, but my digital camera got message- battery empty, so pictures are from one of inner wing and boot.

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s1.jpg


next step- booth sills.
passenger side rear wing is really poor- looks, I need some spare car- can I use body panels from p6 3500 SII ?
 
Well, the boot floor is ok but you need to check the sides of the boot nearer the front, i.e. where the top link bolts through.

The underside of the rear wing is fairly bad news though. You will be getting some welding practice there.

I bought my car, 'Sparky' and was a little shocked when I took the panels off - have a look at viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6548

It has taken me a while, but then I intend to keep Sparky for good, so have spent a lot of time getting it right.

Best of luck with it.

Richard
 
Yeah, I read Your topic about Sparky- truly amazing job and perfect result, unfortunately- I am only one year in UK, so I have extremely poor equipment at the moment for full restoration process, luckily I have some friends who will lend the necessary tools for light repair/restoration.
feel more and more disappointed with this purchase, I was ready for some welding job, for some new panels need, but definitely wasn't ready for something like that- list to do and to buy increasing geometric progression - don't know what to do- sell as project car or start light restoration to keep car for better times, I will collect pictures from all rustholes and then try to get some value for sale, anyway- I got name for car- 'Marta'. :)

Regards Mr Renars Graudins
 
Hi, don't worry I have seen and repaired worse. the trick is to do one bit at a time, and
not look elsewhere or you will get disillusioned. Most of what wants doing can be done by
making up repair panels from a sheet of steel. Start with the simple ones and with a bit
of practice you will be making ever more complicated ones. Think positive!! Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, don't worry I have seen and repaired worse. the trick is to do one bit at a time, and
not look elsewhere or you will get disillusioned. Most of what wants doing can be done by
making up repair panels from a sheet of steel. Start with the simple ones and with a bit
of practice you will be making ever more complicated ones. Think positive!! Colin
Click to expand...

thanks! I already have experience with MIG welding, when I did light MB w123 restoration, really miss my garage and tools :)
When I did restoration for my MB, I use metal parts from my donor car for welding, not sure its the best way for restoration process, but its works for me very well.
 
Hi Renars

There is good news along with the bad. The tops of the sills look to be in sound condition. If it was really rotten, you would be able to see straight through there! So that is good omen for the rest of the sills and floor. The area in the rear wing you show is not that difficult. You can take it small step at a time with small pieces of metal.

Next to see what is under the sill covers below the doors and to see what is under the front wings! Perhaps you will be surprised and pleased with good luck!

Remind us where you are living, perhaps there are members close by with tools and equipment.

Chris
 
I am very grateful for Your support, Thanks!
I am living in small city- Kirkby in Ashfield (Nottinghamshire) NG17 8EY, restoration I will start on January, because I am very busy until Christmas and perhaps I will change my location soon, until January I will prepare car for welding and try to find some cheap spare car for replacing body panels- Passenger side doors, maybe rear wing as well (leather seats and chrome mirrors- well, not so actual yet, but I am keeping this things in my mind).

Someone welded sill cover directly to rear side of sill :) so, its means, that maybe there is no more screw hole but big rust hole- really hope for luck..,

Regards Renars
 
hi renars,
i don't live too far from you post code DN10 5EX a village called mattersey thorpe 15 mile south of doncaster. i am a specialist and have all the parts you could need new and second hand. i have just got a 3500 series one in that does not need any welding. maybe you fancy a nice V8 or just some advice

ian

07761 329149 or look on my website www.rover-classics.co.uk
 
josephp6man said:
hi renars,
i don't live too far from you post code DN10 5EX a village called mattersey thorpe 15 mile south of doncaster. i am a specialist and have all the parts you could need new and second hand. i have just got a 3500 series one in that does not need any welding. maybe you fancy a nice V8 or just some advice

ian

07761 329149 or look on my website http://www.rover-classics.co.uk
Click to expand...

sounds interesting I will send PM to discuss about Your offers.
 
Just received this car: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0626927517

Mostly everything are as described, some spares, new tyre on front, Rover manuals (books), steal sheets for welding, etc. bought as donor car and use for spares exchange to create my TC from RHD to LHD, but maybe I can get MOT cheap, because front side of car are completely restored by college students :)

need welding job on sills, floor under rear seats I will take off rear wings to check out rear inner wings.

pics soon...

Renars
 
So, little bit more info about my last purchase- 2000SC automatic:
more good points- front side inner wings after restoration looks really nice, leather seats are good condition, just need new threads in some place, looks new exhaust system.
bad points- rear inner wings are rusty, need lot of welding before think about MOT, some scratches around the car body.
Anyway, I will take out leather seats and swap with my cloth seats from rover 2000TC, and exhaust system.
After that firstly I will try to put this car into market again as project car with running engine, because its looks too good to for me to break in parts just need time and place to do welding.


Renars
 
Renars, think of a Rover P6 as a kit of bits mounted on a base unit. The only thing that matters is the base unit! If the base unit on this red car is in better condition than your white TC then swap everything you want onto the red car! Least welding of the base unit is the start point!

Chris
 
TC and SC exhaust systems are different,SC auto's differ again!!
Only the 2 main exh boxes are the same!
I have to agree with Chris,the base unit is the most important part,,the less welding you have to do the better,and you can put all the best parts onto it and the TC eng/box into the auto if you wish!
The red panels look better overall as well!
 
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