Rover P6 renewing project after 42 years barn live.

[kees66]

Oke I have now because of coming winter protect the metal where rust was formed, I have now also a idea of how much holes
there are, ( I did not find a 9mm hole ;-). The car is in a very good shape, just two little holes for welding, but the door rubber rails are
not that good, these can be removed and replaced? I think almost for sure these are welded on the door posts.

 

[kees66]

The heater, it needs work on it make it nice again. And a pic after put applier to remove rust. Disassemble the whole
unit is not possible or only with much work, there are also nails in it.






.

 

[kees66]

You can buy the pinch strips made up. The originals are spot welded on so you just need to get a spot weld drill bit and drill all the welds out to remove. Frankly, I had mine completely redone by the local panel beater (of course you need one with a spot welder for factory finish) for not terribly much. Getting the correct bends in the replacement channel can be quite challenging and time consuming plus the need to find a means to attach them. It is possible to just weld up the holes and glue the rubbers on/in place for a low cost fix.

JP - The hook thingy is a guard for the oil filter - stops rocks hitting it. There is quite a bit of slop in the drive train due largely to clearance stacking but if the diff end is pretty tight stick your fingers in between the uni joint knuckles and rock the shaft. Movement ( the gap between knuckles varying) will tell you if the joint bearings are gone and need replacing.

I have told from a rover specialist I can better remove them and glue the rubbers to metal. That way it is also more rust resistant, rust is because water comes in the rail where the rubber is and can not damping away.

What do you mean hook thingy?

 

[kees66]

the Single line brake systems are fine. The car has been sitting so it is possible the brake fluid has turned to jelly which makes bleeding it difficult. Best to drain fluid out and replace. You may find there is no flow to the rear brake bleed port (due to the jelly blocking the long pipe). You can fix that problem by disconnecting the hose to the rear calipers and pressing hard and fast on the brake pedal. That will press the goo through. It will get the brakes working again but isn't a long term fix. You will need to rebuild everything to clean it all out....

Here we go further discussing.

I have seen that all the fluid was tapped from the car, also the breaks, so the rubber rings where destroyed. But better then let fluid in, who can do rust because of water get in. The break cilinder was quite clean inside.

 

[jp928]

Resign yourself to replacing ALL the hoses and rubbers, starting with those whose failure would bring you to a halt - radiator and heater hoses, brake calipers, master cylinder. The only hard ones are the rear calipers.

 

[kees66]

I have now remove parts again from breaks, I did see the some rust has damage the main break cylinder
and the rubbers where butter.

I do not now if these are around anywhere but I can let them overhaul, it is better to not throw them away.

Hmm I did see that the body behind the headlights where rust can also be bad, everything is quite well, there is rust from leaking break fluid but it is just superficial rust as on the 99 procent of the whole car. enough fat dirt present though.

I did read every three years the cups in the break system has to be replaced, that is a big minus because then I need again to remove everything. This is big work. The new cars has not this problem so I think the old rubbers are not that good, the new ones are a lot better so is it not better to use the new ones and use also the modern break fluid? There are a lot of break overhaul company's out there.

Below the break amplifier so I do get it apart, the rust needs handled, and I go use rustyco for it, but have a spare part if needed.

Only so far the main cylinder needs renewed.

 

[jp928]

This type of master cylinder is not hard to find, you just need the inside diameter (cast on the body). You should be able to find a better booster than that one. Modern brake seals in new cylinders should outlast the rest of the car.

 

[kees66]

I have disassemble the booster, it is oké inside and the slave cylinder is oke also, just rubber cubs. I can re-use the rubbers on the booster because these look and feel new.

The cold color booster is a spare one, looks better outside, no much rust, but I go reuse the original one removing rust and paint it, the inside is oké no problems.

 

[kees66]

And to push out the pistons I use this. A compressor of a refrigerator this can push easy 20 bar
but be extremely carefully, cylinder becomes a canon. I use a bunch of clothes to pack it in before
press it.

 

[jp928]

I know a guy who used a fridge compressor to do a vacuum bag on a fibre glass moulding....left it too long, crushed the whole thing.

 

[kees66]

Here I just do a press for 20 seconds and the pistons pop out with a bang. These compressors are not made for vacuum because it needs lubrication through pipes as in a fridge.

 

[kees66]

Here I have done the heater, remove the rust and spray paint it.

One problem is also arrived, the steer housing needs removed, I have remove the two long bold,s without
problems but the special one left half under the steering house is a big problem, maybe a tip how to do?
I have use now special oil for de-rust it.

 

[kees66]

Oke some new, I have open the carburetors to see what is inside. the pistons where stuck.

I have remove them to clean, but want to let see what garbage it has on the surface do
someone now where this come from? burned valve is not possible because compression is
oke, tested by previous owner.

It stinks, and I ask myself or the engine is still oke, I think to go start it soon to see, test
did make clear compression was oke.

Do I have to remove the oil and do new in it? Mine thought was to start and first let it warm
and clean and then remove the oil.

For the motor, I do not now what is happen in past, it is a guess if it is oke, but has not much km
runned.

 

[jp928]

I would change the oil immediately, and the filter. Disconnect the coil lead so it cant start while you crank it until oil pressure comes up. The discolouration on the carb pistons is not unusual - get it off without abrading the metal surface. If the carbs have separate fuel bowls you should probably open them and clean inside, and replace the needle and seat units that control the fuel depth. I would also drain all the fuel and replace it, filling tank if possible so you dont need reserve - possible rubbish in bottom. Also would clean battery connections until bright, lightly grease. Clean or renew spark plugs, and check points in dizzy. Keep us up to date with progress.

 

[kees66]

I would change the oil immediately, and the filter. Disconnect the coil lead so it cant start while you crank it until oil pressure comes up. The discolouration on the carb pistons is not unusual - get it off without abrading the metal surface. If the carbs have separate fuel bowls you should probably open them and clean inside, and replace the needle and seat units that control the fuel depth. I would also drain all the fuel and replace it, filling tank if possible so you dont need reserve - possible rubbish in bottom. Also would clean battery connections until bright, lightly grease. Clean or renew spark plugs, and check points in dizzy. Keep us up to date with progress.

Hi Thanks.

so on eye the oil is oke, not very old, maybe it is changed so I did ask previous owner. The motor is tryed to get started there, and without success seems. Compression is oke, and quite high!!! Need to go to lpg otherwise pingling occur. How much oil need in the engine including filter?.

I have the idea to use cheap (full) mineral oil from action, then refresh later with new one, this way I get all the rubbish out.
I have remove the plugs, these are new by the way, when start I have a spark but it is low of energy so look at the capacitor. Only starter motor do
not engage all the time, and need a kick with a metal stink to work again, result of long stand still. As I do now from 1981 in a barn.

I have made a unit for the lathe, now I can rebus the mean break cilinder, I go use brass for it as this site did. Now retired, like me.

BrakeCylinder.com--Restoration of Hydraulic Cylinders

Antique and custom hydraulic brake and clutch cylinder restoration specialist

www.brakecylinder.com

The wiper motor has a defective connector, I did not find yet a replacement for that, both men and woman connector are defective, rust was the cause, I have a wiper motor of a older rover but does not fit. Motor is on other side.

I have now remove the radiator, looks oke, and rust needs removed, all rust everywhere is just dust there is almost nothing rotten, just 2 little holes.

The heater is now painted and ready, did remove the green on heater radiator with lemon juice.

Can I fill the cooling with modern coolant? or stick on water with antifreeze?.

regards

 

[PeterZRH]

I think you made a mistake not opening the heater box while out of the car. Integral to how it work, there is foam insulation which seals the flaps and makes it work effectively. They ALL need renewal.

 

[Julian]

Agreed, Just going through this chat, I am restoring a rover , in storage since 1982 (ish) heater box needed some TLC with a welder, and the internal foam rubber panels glued onto the flaps inside were dust when touched. the matrix though was perfect, tested at 1 bar (chickened out of going higher) bit of new metal, clean up, paint, rubber etc etc good as new hopefully!

 

[PeterZRH]

My heater leaves a nice pile of foam remnants on the dashtop. It's going to need to come out this winter. I'm only going to do it once, so everything gets done...

 

[clive P62]

I think you made a mistake not opening the heater box while out of the car. Integral to how it work, there is foam insulation which seals the flaps and makes it work effectively. They ALL need renewal.

Also 9 out of 10 heater matrixes are furred up / blocked

 

[PeterZRH]

Indeed and since it's such a PITA to take the thing apart - do it all!