hi everybody just joined ive got a problem bought rover p6 v8 drove it for 400 miles but yesterday no oil pressure looks like condensation comin from exhaust looks like frothy water in radiator but no water in oil is this a blown head gasket or could it be something else thanks woody
rover p6 v8
- Thread starter woody
- Start date
Does it sound clattery?(tells you if its gauge/sender)
Could be headgasket if the water level is dropping. Remove the plugs and see if any of them look rusty.
Good news on that front is that the v8 isn't too bad for doing the headgasket. Worst risk is bolts that break. Make sure you have a decent 6 sided socket set, imperial not metric and a breaker bar.
Could be headgasket if the water level is dropping. Remove the plugs and see if any of them look rusty.
Good news on that front is that the v8 isn't too bad for doing the headgasket. Worst risk is bolts that break. Make sure you have a decent 6 sided socket set, imperial not metric and a breaker bar.
stina
New Member
Hi welcome . The oil gauges are notoriously unreliable . Does the oil light work ( come on with the ignition ? ) if yes and it doesn't come on with the engine running it's a fair bet the gauge is at fault , more than likely the sender . Remove the wire from the sender and earth it to the block or base unit , turn the ignition on and watch the gauge , if it goes fully to the right the sender is at fault .
hi everyone tried earthing wire from preasure switch and turning ignition on gauge stayed at 0 also signs of water from exhaust and bubbling in radiator took oil filler cap off it feels dry no sign of oil if it is head gasket problem is it wise to have them both done and where is the best place to buy gasket kits from and the head bolts many thanks woody
If you did earth the right wire , then the guage is broken
Sort out the oil pressure first , then the bubbling in the radiator .The 2 problems are not connected
You can expect some turbulence in the water inside the radiator - I wonder if you are worrying needlessly
Anyhow , it looks like you have a fine example of a P6 there
Sort out the oil pressure first , then the bubbling in the radiator .The 2 problems are not connected
You can expect some turbulence in the water inside the radiator - I wonder if you are worrying needlessly
Anyhow , it looks like you have a fine example of a P6 there
After a decent lay off, you are likely to find that the coolant system needs careful bleeding. My solution is to run the engine with the cap off the rad until hot, then rev and idle a few times topping up as required. The water should be turbulent because it should be getting a decent flow from the small hose that links to the "tower" between the carburrettors. If that is not the cae, then the outlet in the tower is blocked and you'll never bleed the engine! Unblocking it could involve considerable force and sharp implements!
Note also that the water level in the radiator runs naturally at around an inch or so below the filler neck when cold. No amount of topping up will persuade it to run high than that after a couple of runs. But fitting a radiator expansion tank will cure the issue - nobody knows what made Rover omit it!
A 3.5 V8 does produce quite a lot of "steam" from the exhaust until things are well warmed through - that's the exhaust rather than the engine - not necessarily a sign of trouble. HAve a look after a 10 mile run, if it is still steaming then, then there might be something to discauss.a
Chris
Note also that the water level in the radiator runs naturally at around an inch or so below the filler neck when cold. No amount of topping up will persuade it to run high than that after a couple of runs. But fitting a radiator expansion tank will cure the issue - nobody knows what made Rover omit it!
A 3.5 V8 does produce quite a lot of "steam" from the exhaust until things are well warmed through - that's the exhaust rather than the engine - not necessarily a sign of trouble. HAve a look after a 10 mile run, if it is still steaming then, then there might be something to discauss.a
Chris
Yes, if you haven't bled the engine as described above yet. If you have done, then perhaps not.
To recap: Take the radiator cap off. Start the engine and run it until the thermostat opens - ie you can feel very hot water coming along the top hose and into the radiator. Check, by looking into the top of the radiator, that there is a spurt of coolant coming from the small pipe that runs from the "tower" between the carburettors when you rev the engine. Continue to run the engine like this with the radiator cap off for, say, 20 minutes. Periodically rev the engine and periodically top up any lack of coolant to the top of the radiator filler. You will find that the coolant level rises and falls as you rev the engine. When you have finished, and there is definitely no more air coming out of the system, put the radiator cap back on.
Subsequently you will find that if you check the coolant level with the engine cold the level will be one to two inches down. This is normal. If you check it with the engine hot (mind the pressure release) then it should be pretty well full. That is why most people fit an expansion tank. The clue is in the name.
Chris
To recap: Take the radiator cap off. Start the engine and run it until the thermostat opens - ie you can feel very hot water coming along the top hose and into the radiator. Check, by looking into the top of the radiator, that there is a spurt of coolant coming from the small pipe that runs from the "tower" between the carburettors when you rev the engine. Continue to run the engine like this with the radiator cap off for, say, 20 minutes. Periodically rev the engine and periodically top up any lack of coolant to the top of the radiator filler. You will find that the coolant level rises and falls as you rev the engine. When you have finished, and there is definitely no more air coming out of the system, put the radiator cap back on.
Subsequently you will find that if you check the coolant level with the engine cold the level will be one to two inches down. This is normal. If you check it with the engine hot (mind the pressure release) then it should be pretty well full. That is why most people fit an expansion tank. The clue is in the name.
Chris
hi everyone had a couple off hours on the car this morning tried all of your suggestions earthed the sender run engine for 15 mins topped the rad gave it a few revs water level about 2 inches below neck on tick over now had a run round in it when i got back home took rad cap off carefully no more air pressure and condensation from exhaust has cleared but oil pressure gauge still on 0 took front of dashboard off and took the oil pressure and amps gauge off fiddled with the wires put it back together started the engine up it went we have oil pressure left the engine ticking over for half an hour oil pressure and temp spot on 
thanks again everyone for your help woody
thanks again everyone for your help woody