running problems

arcadejay

New Member
hi i am having running problems with my 1972 rover 2000 TC. i have tried changing plugs leads condesor coil rotar arm and points. I did find the inlet manifold gasket gone and this has been changed to. some times it runs ok on tic over and some times it does not. When you drive it it misses and has no power is there any one out there who could possible give me some advice thanks jason
 
First guess is the carbs are warn and need a service + balancing. On my SC I serviced the card and it made a big difference. Also have you tested the compression? May just be low on compression and time for a rebuild.
 
I have had a compression check and the readings was all around 100 i was told this was ok not perfect but would not be a problem. I have a friend who is a mechinic and he set the carbs up and is as stumped as i am. If the carbs are worn could this only show up when they are under load ie whislt driving. How do you go about serviceing them is there kits available?
 
You could try looking at the vacuum advance on the distributer, the line could be blocked or the diaphragm stuck?
 
Are you sure about your compression? 100 seems very low to me. Mine is a 1971 TC with 10:1 compression ratio and I have at least 190psi compression on all 4 cylinders. Even if yours is 9:1, I'm sure it will be much more than 100.

Anyone have the right figures for the 9:1 engine?

That is assuming we're all measuring in PSI :D

Re the carbs - kits are available, check out Burlen fuels on http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ and do a search on your vehicle. If the part looks like it is out of stock, ring them up because they may still have it.

Cheers,
Brian.
 
looks like i will have to check the compression again tomorrow. Anyone know what it should be



thanks so far

jason
 
Both, also worth checking again after adding a teaspoon of oil to each cylinder, this will help to indicate where the problem is.

Make sure you remove all the plugs whilst testing (not just the one you're doing), makes it easier for the starter to turn the engine. Also make sure you've got the throttle wide open. Both these can have an effect on the readings.

So in theory you want 3 sets of readings, cold, warm and warm with a little oil. May also be worth trying your guage on another vehicle just to get a reference value, some guages are wildly incorrect.
 
Thanks for that rick does anyone know what the test should be is 100 psi bad or ok. Just to give me an idea


many thanks jason
 
I can't find the post I made when I first brought the Soup dragon. She had a burnt out valve on no1 cylinder and I'm sure it still reached around 80psi. But in there I listed the psi I was getting. But yes should be around 180 to 200 when good depending on miles on the engine and if it's warmed up. Normally I say it's not what the figure is but if they are all the same or not. But yours is low, so much so I would suggest redoing, once when cold and once when hot.

If you get stuck I can pop out and do a test on mine, she's a rebuilt SC 2000 engine so don't know if that would be the same.
 
ok i have done another compression check assumming the front of the engine is 1 and the back is 4. the following is below


cold

1 170 psi
2 150 psi
3 145 psi
4 140 psi

warm

1 170 psi
2 160 psi
3 145 psi
4 140 psi

warm and about a tea spoonish of oil

1 200 psi
2 190 psi
3 170 psi
4 170 psi



i am not familar with carbs to be honest if there was a problem with the set up of the rear carb could this cause a problem to the reading at full throttle. Why is the accerator need to be open all the way. if the rear carb was worn would this cause the reading to show what they are. sorry if the questions appear stupid but as i said twin carbs are a new beast to me


thanks jason
 
So,...you're having trouble with the rear carb aswell :?: ..with those compression readings i would suspect head gasket failure,especially between 3 & 4,

Where's Harvey :!: :?: :LOL:
 
I've missed this one somehow!

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, if I was looking at it I would start again from the beginning with all the basics.

Assuming that these are all OK then provided you have done the compression check with the throttles wide open I would say that they are a bit low, and the fact that a shot of oil down the bores bumps them up to more acceptable levels would point to ring wear. 3 &4 are the low ones but not so low that I would immediately think head gasket.

What are the valve clearances?

Low compression and/or head gasket won't make it run badly sometimes and OK at others. Has this car been in regular use or left standing for a while?
 
harveyp6 said:
Low compression won't make it run badly sometimes and OK at others.

Yes, on an old ford I had with a pinto that had poor compression it mainly effected starting and fuel economy. That is it drunk like a fish and was a pig to start. But once started was ok'ish.

I would most definitely do a carb rebuild. If it's not the problem and you change the engine you will still get have two sorted carbs to put on the replacement. I wish I could find that post I did with the measurements of my compression before the engine was rebuilt as that block had 10thou ware on it and would make a good bench mark.

As it's not too much of a mare removing the head I would be tempted to whip it off and have a proper look. The compression may be down to it needing a decoke and the valves reseating....
 
The car has been sitting around for several months i recently got it from a friend it could have sat up to 12months. i have not checked the valve clearance as yet could be the next job. im just scracthing my head now didnt think it could be a head gasket as i dont loose water or oil and there is no smoke from the exhaust. if it has been stood for a while could this be a problem

thanks jason
 
Harvey,...i once accused of being a p6 guru,.... and i still stand by that :LOL: ....however I'm only going on my experiences of 5 years of ownership of Hernione,....originally a SC auto,she had spent 13 years standing idle in a garage in Bracknell,..3 weeks into ownership and she blows a head gasket on the M4,when i took the head off i found the gasket was falling apart, there were no obvious signs,she run quite well although she was a bit gutless starting off ,....so what i'm saying is if Arcadejay's car has never had the head off this could be a sign of gasket failure,

Rufus ( i know :oops: ) is another SC Auto that had been stood for 4 years before i aquired him,same thing happened,this made itself evident by the jet of oil sqirting from the back of the head :LOL:
 
hermione149 said:
Harvey,...i once accused of being a p6 guru,.... and i still stand by that :LOL: ....however I'm only going on my experiences of 5 years of ownership of Hernione,....originally a SC auto,she had spent 13 years standing idle in a garage in Bracknell,..3 weeks into ownership and she blows a head gasket on the M4,when i took the head off i found the gasket was falling apart, there were no obvious signs,she run quite well although she was a bit gutless starting off ,....so what i'm saying is if Arcadejay's car has never had the head off this could be a sign of gasket failure,

Rufus ( i know :oops: ) is another SC Auto that had been stood for 4 years before i aquired him,same thing happened,this made itself evident by the jet of oil sqirting from the back of the head :LOL:


I can quite believe that, but purely on the evidence so far I wouldn't immediately suspect the H/G, but it was part of the reason for asking if the car had been in regular use or left standing.

I'd recheck everything, check the valve clearances, and then see whether there is an improvement. I'd want a reason to remove the head, rather than taking it off just because I couldn't think of anything else...............
 
so i have a a couple of options then trying changing the head gasket or a replacement engine. I wasnt expecting such a drastic results to be honest. what sort of money would you be looking to pay for a good tc engine. or would it be cheaper to replace the rings? any advice would be greatfully recieved

thanks jason
 
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