Siezed engine?

M

mf.smith

New Member
Strange as this may sound, about a month ago, I pulled my carbs and manifold off to rebuild over the winter. At that time, i did get anti freeze in the exhaust ports, but immedietely pulled the plugs, and spun the engine over to clear it. Afterwards, I sprayed lubricant into the spark plug holes, and into the exhaust ports.

Things being what they are, I had to put it up for a little over a month. Now, the engine is seized, or so it seems! Has this ever happened to anyone else? Tomorrow I am going to pull the fan, and put a breaker bar on the balancer pully, but am afraid of snapping the bolt off.

Does not seem to be the clutch as it is in neutral, and I would think by depressing the clutch pedal, it should start.

I may try putting it in gear and rocking it a bit first as I hear the clutch may freeze to the flywheel.

Anyone have similar problems, or suggestions? i've never seen an engine seize up that quickly, although it has been raining here much. Still, the car is in under cover.
 
It does seem strange that it would seize solid after such a relatively short time. If you get a socket on the front pulley retaining bolt I very much doubt you'll snap that one.
 
Is it just that the starter won't turn it ?

Could be a starter problem, rather than a seized engine. Breaker bar on the front pulley will soon tell you.
 
Never seen anything like it! 2000 TC , for sure it is seized up tight. Shot some PB Blaster down the plug and intake and exhaust ports (the world's best penetrating oil!) and even with a breaker bar with a cheater bar attached, it does not budge an inch! Going to keep trying to budge it over the next week. I tracked the time, and it sat , under cover, for 6 weeks without an intake or plugs in it. Lesson learned! Never take a rover engine down to where the atmosphere can get to it!
 
mf.smith said:
I tracked the time, and it sat , under cover, for 6 weeks without an intake or plugs in it. Lesson learned!
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That's the problem, and it wouldn't just happen to a Rover engine. Too late now but never leave an engine with the plugs out, and if the manifolds are off seal the ports with rags. Leave it like that with a few shots of oil down the bores, turning it over by hand occasionally and it would have been fine pretty much indefinitely.
 
OK don't laugh, but I've heard of people who swear by pouring coca cola (or Pepsi ;-) ) down the bores, and leaving for a few days.

I've never tried on an engine (but then I've never had one seized), but I've used it for other siezed bits and pieces.
 
robgee1964 said:
OK don't laugh, but I've heard of people who swear by pouring coca cola (or Pepsi ;-) ) down the bores, and leaving for a few days.

I've never tried on an engine (but then I've never had one seized), but I've used it for other siezed bits and pieces.
Click to expand...

The Coca-Cola method is fair industry practice. It does work!
 
harveyp6 said:
mf.smith said:
I tracked the time, and it sat , under cover, for 6 weeks without an intake or plugs in it. Lesson learned!
Click to expand...

That's the problem, and it wouldn't just happen to a Rover engine. Too late now but never leave an engine with the plugs out, and if the manifolds are off seal the ports with rags. Leave it like that with a few shots of oil down the bores, turning it over by hand occasionally and it would have been fine pretty much indefinitely.
Click to expand...

Done it many times in the past, and never had this happen. Never happened to a Chevrolet, Buick, AMC, or Ford engine, especially being inside under cover , not outside! In any case, will try the breaker bar plus cheater again tonight, and for the next week. We shall see how penetrating oil does.

Never heard of the Coke thing, but I guess it can't hurt! Either is preferable to a new boat anchor! The reason I say that is I have a parts car, but the parts car itself is very restorable if i don't have to use too much from it! Two rovers is better than one!
 
DaveHerns said:
It's probably the antifreeze in the water which has caused it to be extra corrosive
Click to expand...

Very well could be. So far it isn't moving a millimeter. On the bright side, I know two of the valves are in great shape as they are holding the penetrating oil just fine! Also, the piston bores are now filled quite well with penetrating oil. Put more in tonight and can hear the splashing!

Of all the numb skulled things to do!

Isn't the starter holding it, may try the coca cola next week!
 
poor diesel in the plug holes and leave to soak for a couple of hours then turn it over with a good battery with the plugs still out and hopefully that will free it. Then change the oil and filter before re-fitting plugs and fire it up,
 
Happy to respond that the PB Blaster worked! Freed the engine up, and was able to crank it with ease by hand. Thanks to all who posted with suggestions. Actually, I was at first unable to turn the engine in either direction, but after the chemicals did their work, I was able to spin it backward. Once that was done, it turned forward easily enough!

So happy, I broke out my Rover T shirt to wear!

Now I start putting the rebuilt carbs back on, and hopefully, the old girl is on the road for the first time in almost a decade.
 
Once again. I have to thank everyone for their assistance. Rovers are so rare here in the U.S., there is hardly anyone extant with knowledge of the make. Don't know what I'd do without all of you!
 
Best advice now is to to renew your oil filter and oil (with something cheap and cheerfull!) before attempting to run the engine. Once you have it started, run it up to temperature and after a couple of vigorous trips round the block, dump the oil and refill with flushing oil or an oil for a diesel engine (very high detergent). Once you've flushed to your satisfaction then renew the filter again and refill the engine with a high ZDDP 20W50. (not all 20/50's are equal - check the ZDDP - zinc - level to assess whether it is suitable for a flat tappet engine. The name "Classic" on the packaging isn't good enough to indicate this!) From here on in renew oil and filter at 3,000 mile intervals.

Chris
 
So, before attempting to run, you are saying, change the oil....Of course, but you say again to change it again after a few trips around the block? Just want to make sure I have it correct. Now, this oil.....Can you post a link to find out more information? Specifically, the brand you stated?
 
change the oil ofcourse but i would just put the correct oil (aqf)? in it and do about 50miles then change both oil and filter
 
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